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Nissan realized their stupidity in having the oil filter right above the starter, so with the D22/WD22, they relocated the oil filter to the driver-side front of the engine block. To be sure your ignition switch and "starter" relay is operating properly, you can short the black/pink wire (that goes to the starter, 18AWG) to +12V and see if the starter cranks or not. You can intercept this black/pink wire either at the starter, or at the "starter" relay (driver side for auto trans or passenger side for manual trans). Also, please note that the "starter" relays are notorious for going bad. I had one stuck in the "closed" position and would not stop cranking until I disconnected my battery (about 10 miles later). Fried the starter.

No relay for the dash. 94 and up gauge clusters are notorious for having gauge problems. My tach ('95 Hardbody) did the exact same thing, it would be erratic. Cleaning contacts, etc. did not work. I hate to say it, but "it's time for a replacement gauge cluster".

If you were more mechanically apt, I was going to recommend you take the starter apart. Sometimes the starter is built-up with gunk on the inside. A good cleaning will restore the starter. The other common issue with D21/WD21 is the "starter" relay. For whatever reason, Nissan likes to call it the "interlock" or "inhibitor" relay. Those are notorious for going bad. My '95 had a failed "interlock" relay which stuck in the "closed" position. The engine kept cranking the starter, and the only way to stop this was to either pull the relay out or disconnect the battery. But the most common failure of this relay is it not "closing" when you crank the ignition switch.

The '94 and up gauge clusters suck. I remember back on the AC forum that others had problems with the speedo and tach. My tach (I have a '95 Hardbody) went out.

I noticed the FSM has errors in regards to the "Inhibitor Relay" for the automatic trans WD21 (I have both '94 and '95 FSM).

To do this process correctly, a TIG welder is needed.

Luckily the problems I had with KMA was very small compared to a lot of people. They created so many problems with a lot of people, they changed their name. This forum doesn't allow you to copy HTML links????? I had to type the entire address in there. Anyways, I'm hoping the OP will be able to use the photos to help him build a bumper.

Sounds like timing too advanced.

I purchased a bumper from these guys long before they changed their name. They used to be called Kennesaw Mountain Accessories. www.tacticalarmorgroup.com/TAG-Bumper-Store/Wincher-Nissan-Pathfinder-1987-1995

It's a pain to get the crank sprocket off of the crankshaft. What I did was drill and tap two holes (opposing sides on the face of the crank sprocket). I then put two corresponding screws in each tapped hole and use a bar-type puller. A friend told me to use two screwdrivers to slowly pry the crank sprocket out, but it seemed like the wedging process would damage the oil pump.

Sorry to resurrect this old thread from the dead...... I am having the exact same problem with my '95 D21. The fuel pump wires are blk(-) and wht/blu(+). The fuel level sender wires are blk(-) and yel/grn(+). The low-fuel warning light uses the same black wire as the fuel level sender (but is separate from the fuel pump), blk(-) and yel/pur(+). My fuel gauge and low warning light both don't work. Something is wrong with my in-tank unit.