GePa
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Posts posted by GePa
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Ya, have to take apart a lot of stuff to make it easy. almost as much stuff as a timing belt job. before you dig into it that far. how bad is the damage to the pipe? would it be possible to grind down the part thats jacked up and just slide the hose further back? /shrug. I always look for money / time saving alternatives. some of them work out, some of them dont.
Pat
I was thinking about something like that, that could be cheap.
Because there is pitting but just that pitting and not holes.
I guess it was my fault for following a "mechanic" advice...
"IF IT'S LEAKING don't put a coolant mix... just destyled water"..
I guess i can thank him for that.....
From now on, even if a car is leaking coolant, i should use 50/50 mix ratio.
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Great thanks.
I can see it's going to be a pita to change it....
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I just found a Coolant leak, i changed the hose, but i found that the pipe were it connects to the hose is a bit corroed
What's the name of the piece? It's one marked 21v
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Mine was worst and they were able to fix it. Still running like new.
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Oem Filter, with Shell Hx7 10w40.
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cool, so just lay off the ol girl and she will be happy ;P
Yeah it's going to be a slow ride. Until i can fix any seal leak.
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I know your pain!!!
Here in Argentina Nissan insist on selling my filters for the VQ35.... Instead of the VG33E....
I told them the box didn't list the VG33E engine, they told they will work in the same way....
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make sure you dont have valve cover gasket leaks. Around that year its a common thing to need to change them. Also, if your driving it at 3 thousand rpm plus, try driving it at 2500 ish rpm, just leave earlier. If you still consume oil at reduced RPM, just "not as much by a small percentage" then ya its probably using it. Look at your tail pipe when u first start up in the morning and see if you get blueish smoke until it warms up, in that case probably valve stem seals.
hope some of that can at least point you in the right direction. But im leaning toward valve cover gaskets. do you have any dots under the truck after you park it overnight? If they r leaking that much they r pretty bad, im betting when you get them out of there they will be more like hardened pieces of plastic than rubber seals.
good luck with your pathy
Pat
Well i been doing what you be doing what you told. Not going any further than 2500 rpm, and guess what the oil consumption
was reduced to 0%.
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This! I have not replaced a valve cover gasket (other than aircooled VW) in 25 years, they are almost always loose and just need a hand tightening with a Philip screw driver. Making sure your EGR valve is working properly goes a long way as well...
Just to get a little history, how long have you had it, how long has it done this and how many miles on it?
No this is not normal, but if it doesn't get worse, it is bearable. As long as it isn't leaking...
My father had a 1975 Dodge Coronet that burned 1 quart (1/4 gallon) of oil every 1,000 miles (1,600km) from the factory, brand new. It never got worse or better, it just was that way for the 170,000 miles put on it...
B
Only 133595 miles and i got with 121955 miles on it. Which is not that much to be honest..... I guess i pushed sometime ago.
So something is wrong.
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I had a big leak of coolant, which was fixed, but now is leaking near the main hose of the radiotor small drops of coolant. So i will check again.
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That's the funny thing. I doesn't seem to leak to the ground and it smokes white sometimes.
Also on a side note when the oil level is 3/4 it starts to make lifter ticks.
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Argh this happen because i had to go from Liters to galon and from KM to Miles.
0.265 galons.
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Hello All, i have a R50 that was made in 1998; and every 621 miles is consuming about 1/4 galon of Oil. Is this normal?
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I don't understand. The only difference between the trims in the wheels was the diameter, width and I believe backspace but not sure on that. If it is, that's likely the issue.
The wheel well shouldn't be different.
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There is a difference in ratio, it was explained somewhere why there was rubbing with the XE and LE while the SE was
OK with the 31x10.5 SE TRIM.
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If you R50 came equipped with 265/70 r15 you are not going to have any issue with the 31X10,5 r15.
Now if your R50 Came with 235 tires (XE and LE) then you may have some rubbing when turning.
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the glass seems to have a lot more lines/ridges (cant remember the technical name for it) than the plastic. I think GePa might be right that it has to do with the bulb. but was the bulb an option from the factory?
If you check the pre 99.5 have Glass and 9004 bulbs for the American Market; and the European ones branded as
Terranos will have plastic and H4.
Now after the 99.5 model it seems they unified everything to the much better H4 bulb.
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Sounds like.......... Sorry to said that be i had too many bad experience with mechanics, that tried to be TOO SMART and rip me off .
200 US Dollars to DO both is an OVERKILL.
1) The radiator Flush is extremly easy to do..... Even it's in the manual as do it yourself...
You need to make a MIX of 50/50 Coolant and distilled water.
2)If they are going to do a true fuel system cleanout, that means they need to change injectors as well.... And a single Injector alone cost like 100 bucks......
So what they are going to do with their "cleanout" is just pour some " MAGIC INJECTOR CLEANER!!!!!! AS SEEN ON TV!!!!" on the fuel tank that cost like 10 bucks.
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I call it bull@@@@; that's way too big.
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Go with what is on the sticker, on the door jamb. Just because you increased the tires size, does not mean you changed the weight of the vehicle. I will also assume you did not change the Load rating(C,D,E) for your new tires, so again, any deviation from factory pressure is not needed. Overpressurizing your tires will just wear the center of the tread sooner and reduce the amount of tread patch contacting the road in corners. The pressure on the side of the tire is the max pressure for the tire. That should only be used when fully loaded or towing.
How so? for example i went from the Stock to 265/70 r15 to 31x10,5 r15. Are you saying that i should the same PSI?
Even if one is 30" and the other is 31"?
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So this means i can use those 100/80 bulbs? Or will need new wiring to get the full power they can output?
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They call that Off Road? Sure there is no paviment, but really off road.......
Pathfinders are not longer off road suv, they are "city CUVS..."
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Just two simple question. The headlight of the R50 gen 1 uses relays?
If they do use relays it's safe to use 100/80 bulbs? And i mean true 100/80 bulbs made by Trusted companies not
some chinese crapp.
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I think the issue of Plastic Vs Glass Headlight. Is not an issue of the Year they were mfg, but it has to do with the bulb they use.
Glass= 9004 lo/hi bulb
Plastic= H4 lo/hi bulb.
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My H.U had the same issue with the sound knob. Also the speakers did died a few years ago.
I think that the healthy option is just to replace everything from the H.U to the Speakers, either with Alpine, Kenwood, Pioneer, etc In my humbler opinion
a two dim H.U with a basic led display.
Random picture of your R50
in 96-2004 R50 Pathfinders
Posted
Well Pinion, at least i think, overheating is not an issue....