[Front Strut Replacement]

If you have another vehicle available, after you remove your old ones you can even take the old and new to most big-chain repair shops (pep boys, mavis, sts, firestone, discount tire) and for a small fee they'll swap the springs to the new struts for you. Using a spring compressor can be a bit unnerving for a novice (and potentially dangerous) but certainly can be done, just be careful, take your time and follow instructions. Oh, and no matter what, you'll need an alignment when you're done.

 

That's almost exactly what I did. I took it to a repair shop and they disassembled and reassembled for a small fee. I can't remember what it was exactly without digging up my receipt folder. I'm not super handy, but I make up for it with good old-fashioned research (FSM, Chilton's/Hayne's, YouTube, etc). I'm also learning that it's ok to make mistakes, especially if you're just using hand tools LOL. The spring compressor, however, that thing frightens the snot out of me.

[Front Strut Replacement]

Very good

 

I ordered the parts from RockAuto and will get it done next weekend. I spent the extra $5 each to get KYBs instead of Monroe.

 

Happy 4th to you Kyle!

[Front Strut Replacement]

At my last oil change the shop said I had a shot front strut that needs to be replaced. Their quote was $842. I priced the struts and mounts/bearings/boots at $194 on RockAuto. Just wanted to confirm I was getting the right stuff. This is a Pathfinder that only goes "off road" to go camping on BLM land here in Colorado. Nothing crazy.

 

[New guy checking in from Colorado]

Yeah it went pretty smoothly. If I didn't have a helping hand with the how-to open, it probably would have taken me another hour or two.

 

OK one more question… what can I do with my old rotors, cv axles, and auto hubs? Would a junk yard buy them?

[New guy checking in from Colorado]

Well, the job got done today with the help of a friend (same level of "experience"). 9am to 3pm with a lunch break. No pics. Too cold.

[New guy checking in from Colorado]

I'm still here, haven't disappeared yet

 

Plan is to tackle this assignment over the weekend but sub-zero temps in Colorado may push it into the next weekend. I don't need it to get to work next week so this won't be an issue.

[New guy checking in from Colorado]

Alkorahil (Rob Lacy) sounds like a real catch hahaha

 

Thanks for the heads up on wheel bearings (my parts list is growing each day) and the FSM. I've also read and re-read individual threads on cv axles, brakes, and warn hubs. Before I did my first repair on the Ranger I must have read the how-to and watched the YouTube clip a few dozen times.

[New guy checking in from Colorado]

Hi guys, just picked up a 1997 Pathfinder with 166k miles. Rust and dent free with 4wd and a m/t were my requirements. I'll be using this to go fishing around Boulder County and camping with our growing family - we have a 4 year old chocolate lab and we've got a baby boy due in a month or so.

 

Pre-buy inspection revealed torn cv boots in the front and the brake pads need replacing. While I'm replacing the cv axles and pads/rotors, would I be saving much time by installing locking hubs at the same time? I'm estimating it will take me 5 hours to do the whole job. All of my DIY experience has been in the last year on an old Ford Ranger - I did all four shocks and replaced all the fluids (rear diff, m/t, transfer case, p/s fluid, coolant, etc). Do you guys think 5 hours for my skill level seems reasonable? What if I wait until the spring to do the hubs - 4 hours total?

 

One other question, how do I know what trim level I have? I know it's not an LE (no leather, no auto trans) but not sure between XE and SE. Does it even matter? I ask because the auto parts stores always want to know.