ChrisFreeman
-
Posts
26 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
1
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Calendar
Posts posted by ChrisFreeman
-
-
-
Thanks for the answers. I am going to try to get another 500 miles out of it and if it does snap I will update this thread. And I just discovered that my lower ball joints are bad. Fun.
-
I have a 92 SE and the timing belt has 95k miles on it. Some things have come up and I can't afford to get it replaced. How long could the belt go before it breaks? How long have any of you let the timing belt go. I am starting to get nervous but I simply can not afford to get it changed for another 2 months (1000 miles give or take) Thanks a lot
-
Thanks a lot. That really helps out a lot
-
I have a 92 pathfinder with an LSD is the rear. Which Diff would that be. Thanks in advance
-
I have a 92 pathfinder and I have concluded that the idle air control valve is either clogged or the motor is not working properly. Is there any way I can clean the valve without removing it. It is in a recessed part of the engine and It seems hard to remove. Thank you
-
Hello,
The Air duct that goes from my Air cleaner to the throttle body has a nice sized rip in that runs parallel to the ribs on the hose. I haven't been able to find this hose and I am not sure what to do. Is there any kind of sealant I could use? This tear is after the MAF sensor so it is throwing the engine off at lower rpms. Thanks for the help
-
The argument interested me enough to push me into the rabbit hole, so here we go.
Near as I can tell, Nefarious is talking about adjusting the idle speed by reprogramming the ECU, not screwing with the mislabeled diagnostic pot. It's an odd point to bring up (seeing as how most of us don't have the tools to reflash our ECUs) but he is correct in that setting the idle from the ECU should not be necessary. If the engine's idling too high or too low, it's not that the computer has the wrong goal, it's that, for whatever reason, the idle air valves can't make it happen.
I had a look at the EF&EC section (page 14 specifically) to get a better idea of what goes on in the idle air assembly. The computer controls the engine's idle via the Auxiliary Air Control valve, which appears to be a simple solenoid valve that varies airflow by duty cycle (not unlike a fuel injector). This part allows the computer to adjust the idle. (High idle during warmup is handled by the IACV, which as far as I can tell does not communicate with the computer.) Small adjustments to the screw don't change the idle because the computer tunes them out with the AAC. With large adjustment or mechanical issues (or the IACV being open) the idle can and does change, so clearly the AAC can only do so much.
I suspect that the purpose of the idle adjustment screw is to get the idle close enough to right that the AAC can fine-tune it. This would explain why the FSM's adjustment procedure for the screw says to disconnect the idle air assembly first.
True, adjustments to this shouldn't be necessary on a stock vehicle, but after years of ingesting PCV gunk and whatever else I'll bet the air flow through the throttle body changes somewhat. Thorough cleaning/repair of the throttle body and the idle air valves would probably be the proper fix, but I don't imagine that simply adjusting the system to work around the gunk/leaks/etc would blow your engine, fry your ECU, or retroactively lose WWII for the Allies.
If you've done significant intake/engine mods you may want to adjust it anyway.
I like this explanation. I was wondering this myself. Why does the pot on the ECU say idle speed adjustment? Does it actually adjust the idle speed? If not, what does it do?
-
This is wrong information. You cannot adjust the Idle Via the ECU with the pathfinder. YES I am aware some have sticker on the ECU that says "Idle Adjustment" this sticker is wrong from the factory, the correct sticker displays a warning about not over turning the diagnostics screw.
NOW The proper procedure is as follows.
FSM 1994 Pathfinder EF/EC Page 26
Disconnect IACV-AAC valve sub-harness connector.
Adjust engine speed by turning idle speed adjusting screw (A/T in "N" position).
A/T: 700 rpm
M/T: 700 rpm
(Then there's an Arrow pointing to an Illustration of the idle screw under intake)
Reconnect IACV-AAC valve sub-harness connector.
While specified in the FSM unplugging this is not really necessary unless you suspect it is being problematic. So Like I said earlier...
Factory idle with everything off and IACV plugged in is 750 +/- 50 RPM
You may find 800-850 is a little smoother, no need to go over 900.
It also begins with page 25 about checking the ignition timing first AND loops back to page 25 to verify the timing after the idle has been set. If your timing is too retarded your idle will drop if your timing is advanced your idle will come up some. Proper setting 15 BTDC +/- 2.
And if it won't go up to at least 750 plugged (or 700 unplugged) something else may be wrong.
Sorry it took so long to respond. I got tired of messing with the truck and when I went to start it up, everything was great. The truck was running nice and smooth. If this problem comes back, would this indicate a clogged IACV?
-
The idle adjustment screw for the vg30e is on the driver side of the intake manifold. It will be on the underside of the manifold right next to the firewall with the head facing the brake booster.
The screw is about the size of a dime and is sometimes covered with sealant or a rubber plug (not needed).
Make 1/4 and half turn adjustments revving the engine lightly and letting it settle OUT it faster (counter clockwise).
Factory idle with everything off and IACV plugged in is 750 +/- 50 RPM
You may find 800-850 is a little smoother, no need to go over 900.
Okay thanks I found it! But there is a problem I have turned the screw, and revved the engine around 2000 rpm and then let it settle and I have done this quite a few times but with no change. What could be the problem?
-
I can not find the Idle adjustment screw and I was wondering if anybody can tell me where it is. Thanks in advance.
-
Okay so I think it was all a coincidence. Like silverton said, could sea foam really clean enough dirt and deposits to clog a fuel filter? I doubt it. Anyways I changed the filter and it is running fine now. Im sure this problem would of come up seafoam or not. I still plan on cleaning the throttle plate. Thanks all.
-
I would definitely suggest changing that filter
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337 using Tapatalk
I will do that once I get home from work today and let you know what happens after that
Sounds like a dirty throttle body to me. Did you do the seafoam through the intake, too? From what I've heard, the seafoam can loosen up the crud in the throttle body to where it blocks the air that's supposed to get in to let the engine idle. It runs fine cold because the computer opens the idle air control valve, but then as the engine warms up, the valve closes, and the engine ends up trying to suck air though a clog. Presto, it doesn't idle properly.
I haven't had this issue myself but I'd be inclined to pull the intake pipe and shoot some carb cleaner at the area around the butterfly valve. Somebody who has dealt with this can probably tell you better.
Can't hurt to change the filter but I don't think it's to blame.
I didn't use any sea foam through the intake because I didn't want any loose crap to get stuck in the throttle body. The only reason why I put the sea foam in the tank is to see if it could fix my faulty fuel gauge readings. It worked once before and I thought I would try again.
Next time, use a proper fuel system cleaner like Chevron Techron, Gumout Regane, or Redline SI-1 rather than Seafoam. The three mentioned products contain PEA which cleans effectively without leaving behind its own deposits as a solvent-based cleaner such as Seafoam does. I'm not saying your problems are necessarily caused by the Seafoam, just that there are better products.
+1 to changing the fuel filter and cleaning the TB.
Yeah I am sticking to techron. I heard it is a much better product.
Throttlebody does come to mind, wont hurt to clean it anyways at 300K!
The works fine cold, runs like crap hot also could be the engine temperature sensor, and it is not expensive and again your truck could probably use a new one at 300K
I am also thinking of the the oxygen sensor when the computer goes into closed loop. Does it happen about 5 mins after a cold start? If so take a look at the O2 sensor,
It happens after about 20 minutes of driving but I will still look into the O2 sensor. I plan on replacing/cleaning parts in this order. Fuel Filter, Throttle, engine temp sensor and maybe the O2 sensor. Those can be pricy. Thank you all for your help.
-
Hello all,
I have a 1992 pathfinder with everything original expects belts brakes filters and starter. I put some sea foam in the gas tank because after 310,000 miles, I felt the injectors must be a little dirty. A few days after that my engine idles a little rough and pretty low once the engine is warmed up. So low that even the headlights dim and the volt meter falls to zero once i get to a red light. When the engine is cold, it is all okay. I haven't changed my fuel filter in years. Could it be a little clogged now after the sea foam? Any help is appreciated. Thanks
-
I wish I could tell you. I haven't owned a pathfinder in about 6 months.
Edit: I take that back. I found an old photo of the fuse door and see the fuse labeled Seat Heat.
The label on the fuse chart can be seen to the right of the flash.
Sorry about the flash by the way.
I took a look in the fsm and couldn't find any mention of it. I just want to know what it is for. Any guesses?
-
Interesting. I'd really like to know too. Try looking in FSM?
Does your pathfinder also have the same fuse. I am just really curious. I will try the FSM.
-
1
-
-
Hello everybody
My 92 SE has a fuse labeled "seat heat" and I would love to know what it is for. I do not have heated seats and I do not think it was even an option back in 92. Thanks in advance.
-
Yes That is the one that is all the way down the drivers side foot well. I plugged it up to what looks like the dinger but it still doesnt work. I think it was unplugged when my hofco alarm was put in a while back. I guess I will have to keep looking around.
-
Hey Everybody. I have a 92 and My door chime does not work. I am one of those people who always leaves the keys in my car. I was wondering, Where does this connecter go? I can not find the female end anywhere, It is coming off the door chime. Thank you
-
Wow thats interesting. I thought it was an antenna but I already had one on the fender so I was confused. Thanks a lot
-
So I have a question. My windshield has a brown wire in the front of the windshield. that is connected to a wire coming out of my dashboard. Any Idea what it is? I have attracted a picture. Thanks so much.
-
Man you guys are great. Yes I have a 4WD version with the light on the dash. The bulb probably has burned out. Ill get that fixed. Thanks again
-
Unccpathfinder Ohh yes of course, I just put belts cause I was too lazy to type it out, but I change that every 50k miles (live in los angeles with a lot of idling.) I have another question. My tranny has 295 thousand miles on it and I am starting to get nervous about heat. When I turn the key to the on position, My AT-Temp light does not turn on. Is it supposed to turn on to let me know that the bulb is working? Thanks again
-
Thanks Alkorahil! That was extremely helpful. I have a 92 SE with 294,900 miles with all original parts and I want to keep it running strong. All I do to it is change the belts, hoses, fluids, brakes, and tires and it has been running like a champ.
Hand-me-down 93 XE 2wd - 4wd conversion
in 90-95 WD21 Pathfinders
Posted
I say if you want a 4wd pathfinder just buy one. I bought my 92 4wd pathfinder in great shape for 2k and it had 270k miles on it with a new transmission.