mrkim_
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Posts posted by mrkim_
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Do you know how many bottles I should buy for both front and rear?? 3bottles?
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Mobil 1 75W-90 can be obtained for cheap if you order online from Advance Auto Parts and use discount codes (Google for them). You can get 5 quarts for about $35. No LSD additive is required with M1.
So, if I get this 75W-90 Mobile 1 then I can put it in for the front and rear diff?
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There are several topics lingering around here about the front strut spacer. I have had the NX4 1" spacer on top of my AC 2" lift for several years now. I did use two sets of camber bolts (top and bottom strut mounting points) to correct the negative camber without any problems. The spacer, along with the AC springs, will put your cv axles at a pretty extreme angle. There have been concerns with running the cv's at this angle for daily driving. If I remember correctly, the most common problem is the rubber dust boot tears easier at this angle. However, we have gotten by this issue by installing manual locking hubs so that the cv axles do not move unless you are ready to use four wheel drive. We have also noticed a slight gain in fuel savings by the lack of mechanical resistance with the hubs disengaged. The only down side of the manual hubs is that you can no longer "shift on the fly" to go from "2H" to "4H".
*edit ..
I see in your signature that you already have the manual hubs. Basically all you need are the spacers and the camber bolts.
I did get the camber bolts and got them aligned. So if I get the strut spacers then I have to get them re aligned. damm.
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Hi guys,
its the time of the year that I need to change my rear diff and front diff's oil (according to service manual).
I was just wondering what you guys use for the both front and rear diff oils, how much it needs (in qts or L), and what oil grades I need to buy (Manual saids API GL-5 and SAE 80W-90 and do I need LSD additive?).
FYI, rear diff is LSD and I am assuming front diff is LSD as well.
My pathy is 2004
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I didn't know you can put additional 1" lift after the 2" lift. COOL!! If not to trouble can you post the angle of the CV half shaft? Just curious how its sitting after the 1" lift install with 2" lift already done.
Much appreciated
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Hi guys,
So I got the AC 2" lift done in my 2004 pathy and just curious if people have done the 1" NX strut spacer on top of the 2" lift.
I was just wondering if its worth it. If you have done it then allignement needed?
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from the corrosion it looks like its been cracked for a while. a new brake would be all shiny.
Just to be clear did you have that wheel up in the air with your foot on the right pedal and it suddenly came down?
that would be a massive amount of torque suddenly applied the the shaft.
That makes more sense... My car did came down suddenly. And cracked CV would makes sense too... before the break in half
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Here is that picture I failed to post
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To be honest mrkim,
The Nissan shafts as I've ben told by many members AND shops are very strong and meant to last. If the truck had not been lifted they would have probably lasted you another 5-10 years. They are not meant to work at the angles they currently sit at. Keep in mind that even a cardone migh not last you as long at the shaft angles you currently have.
My halfshaf failed...well, actually no, I failed my halfshaft when I lifted the truck. (The inboard boot pulled away from its groove and started spewing grease all over my running gear) the CV joint is actually fine, it is the clamp and boot that failed. I tried replacing my passenger-side shaft with six different shafts of those, four different brands (cardone was the most expensive it tried), and two, different year shafts (1997 & 1998, as the truck was build in early 97 but was sold as a 98) All of them binded while the wheel was hanging AND with the truck on the ground but making left turns. It looked into replacing with a Nissan but at $650/shaft...no way!
Fleurys was kind enough to let me try the spacers he made for his truck. I used it with my stock halfshaft and it binded so, I am still running my OEM shaft and have decided to remove my 1" NX4 spacers to decrease the half-shaft angle and re-build the inboard joint of my halfshaft (I already have the boot, grase and clamps).
Good luck. I hope you don't have the same problems I did. Most people here never had such problems...so, if cost is not an issue for you it might just be the best option instead of taking a chance at them not fitting properly.
Hopefully it is just my Canadian Pathy and not all Canadian Pathies...
Oh yeah, forgot to mention that I got my boot replacements for $22.00 at Lordco. Could be cheaper if you work at a machine or auto shop. (read: if you have an account)
so... if the CV is not meant to run on that angle, am I be able to lower the differential so goes back to original angle? or is that like SFD?
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If the center shaft of the axle snapped, it was likely due to a manufacturing defect in the metal on that particular axle, not indicative of the overall quality of either Nissan or aftermarket axles. It's far more likely to break the CV joints than the axleshaft itself, because the metal (especially the inner CV joint) is thinner.
A couple of months ago, I discovered that not all R50 CV axles are created equal. When I had replaced a CV axle due to a partially split outer CV boot, I purchased a new axle from rockauto and after installation, it was binding while in 4WD. I then purchased a CV axle from my local auto parts store, and it worked just fine.
I opened up the grease caps of the original CV axle and the CV axle I got from rockauto, and found that the walls of the inner CV socket and the roller bearings were different sizes between the two joints. The rockauto joint has smaller bearings and thicker walls, and the original joint has larger bearings and thinner walls. The thicker walls/smaller bearings don't allow the joint to bend as acutely as the thinner walls/larger bearings.
Which CV manufacture did you buy from Rock auto?
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To be honest mrkim,
The Nissan shafts as I've ben told by many members AND shops are very strong and meant to last. If the truck had not been lifted they would have probably lasted you another 5-10 years. They are not meant to work at the angles they currently sit at. Keep in mind that even a cardone migh not last you as long at the shaft angles you currently have.
My halfshaf failed...well, actually no, I failed my halfshaft when I lifted the truck. (The inboard boot pulled away from its groove and started spewing grease all over my running gear) the CV joint is actually fine, it is the clamp and boot that failed. I tried replacing my passenger-side shaft with six different shafts of those, four different brands (cardone was the most expensive it tried), and two, different year shafts (1997 & 1998, as the truck was build in early 97 but was sold as a 98) All of them binded while the wheel was hanging AND with the truck on the ground but making left turns. It looked into replacing with a Nissan but at $650/shaft...no way!
Fleurys was kind enough to let me try the spacers he made for his truck. I used it with my stock halfshaft and it binded so, I am still running my OEM shaft and have decided to remove my 1" NX4 spacers to decrease the half-shaft angle and re-build the inboard joint of my halfshaft (I already have the boot, grase and clamps).
Good luck. I hope you don't have the same problems I did. Most people here never had such problems...so, if cost is not an issue for you it might just be the best option instead of taking a chance at them not fitting properly.
Hopefully it is just my Canadian Pathy and not all Canadian Pathies...
Oh yeah, forgot to mention that I got my boot replacements for $22.00 at Lordco. Could be cheaper if you work at a machine or auto shop. (read: if you have an account)
Wow.... $650???
damm... yours is 1998 pathfinder and if its costs that much then my car will most likely cost more!!
No way I am spending that much money.
Well my CV's middle rod from inner shaft and outer shaft legit snapped in half so I have to replace it.
Since I have failed to upload the picture; clearly I don't know how to upload the picture on this site...
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To be honest, I could go to the nissan and pay for what they sell it for but, they are always over priced. I don't think I really want to buy overpriced item where I can get the same item for less money.
For example, the strut boots for the front to replace is around $18 ea. in 4x4 parts and if I go to nissan dealer for their price is $45 ea.
Yes, OEM are good if my car was less than 5~7 yeras old but now its getting to almost 10 years since the car was assembled I don't think its worth for me to spend that much of overpriced item.
Speaking of Rockford boots how much those go for in the market?
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The truck is lifted and the manual warn hub is already installed. I decided not to go with nissan's OEM parts because I think their parts are not strong enough for off roading.
I want to get stronger metal CV where it will not break on me. I only had this car since this Feb, 2013 and the CV shafts break on me kinda tells me that the nissan is not using the right strength metal.
A mean, the trail I went today was just super easy up and down and some bumps.
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Actually, Lordco was more expensive then 4x4. They were quoting me like $52 per bolt.
It was better for me to order from 4X4 and pick them up from the US.
I ordered 2 kits so toltal of 4 bolts.
It will arrive this Saturday
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Here is the picture
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Hi guys,
I went off roading today and my right CV Shaft just snapped in half!!
So, now I have to get new CV Shaft and I need recommendations.
I was looking at Rock auto.com like Cardone Select, EMPI and Surtrack. Out of these three which would you recommend?
Any other good brands out there other than listed above?
I want the new CV Shafts to last long as I really want to keep this vehicle for long time.
I will be getting two CV Shafts; might as well change the other one.
Money is not the issue so feel free to leave me suggestions!!
Thanks for your help guys!!
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Just ordered Camber bolts from 4x4 parts so when it arrives I am gonna get installed and aligned
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So I just ordered the camber bolt kit from 4x4 parts and installing them with the alignment when I get them.
See whrere that take me lol
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already.. guess returning the E3 and getting the NGK plugs
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Remove those e3 garbages now u will regret it if u dont they will fail harrddddddd if u want more details i will pm u but just get some irdium ngk or bosch and youll be golden
Well I haven't installed them yet.... is it that bad???? I read pretty good reviews about it...
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Not in North Van. If you're ever in Richmond, there is a shop I use for alignments...can't think of the name right now though...
North Shore off road I think also has a garage. They might be able to do your alignment...I'll get back to you on the richmond shop.
Sweet thanks!! That would be helpful!!
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Hi guys,
I am still tunning my 2004 pathfinder so that it will last me a long time.
Here is what I have done so far
- 2 inch AC lift with KYB GR-2 Strut
- Pro Comp ES3000 at rear
- 8000k HID head light
- Changed fuel filter to Fram Fuel Filter
- Engine oil and filter (Of course!)
- Warn Locking Hub
- Pro Comp series 7069 wheels
Now to the things that I will be doing it to the car!!
- Bought E3 spark plugs (thought give it a try) Any suggestion on this product? Have you guys used them before?
- Off-roading lights; probably a PIAA or IPF. Still having trouble thinking where to mount them. Any suggestion will be great!
- Spark plug wires? (Worth it?)
-Rear drum break case (its cheaped in the corners!!)
Don't think I will be doing SFD anytime soon.
My car has 156900 km or 97493 miles.
Also I am getting about 350 km to 360 km on full tank of gas. Is this normal?
Any suggestion will be help full
Thanks guys!!
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If you were trying to compress the spring and not being able to clear the top to mount the strut mount? Yes, I did had that problem.
It was simply not long enough spring compressor. My spring compressor was for like sedans' spring not for a big rigs.
I eventually took it to the shop to get them professionally done. Also, since your in the USA the shop might be cheeper in labour too!!
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Take it to a shop. that way you'll be sure the camber AND toe are right where they should be. There is a very slight chance you might have to use two bolts per side (one on top, on on the bottom) or elongate the top bolt hole in both struts for further adjustment.
Where in BC are you?
I am in North Vancouver,
Do you know any good alignment shop in Vancouver??
I ma thinking about buying the new camber sets and take it to the shop.
Since I am mobile, I can go anywhere to align my wheel
Replace Inner Wheel Bearing? Brakes with a Driver Side Axle Replacement Job
in 96-2004 R50 Pathfinders
Posted · Edited by mrkim_
for the roters i recommend the Raybestos Rotors. I just replced them and works or feels better in braking.
Also I just repacked my bearing and like the other people said, don't waste ur money when you don't need them. Inspect and if its good then just repack. However, I will recommend to change the bearing inner seal. Seen lots of case that the water got in through the seal cause they were old or worned down.
It takes lots of force and use to break the bearings. High quality grease like Vavoline (I use this) will do.