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Manik

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Posts posted by Manik

  1. I was having intermittent one click no crank, no start. 
    Recently I went to start the rig, and there was not even the "1" click, just nothing at the turn of the key.
    Dash lights lite and door chiming confirming battery is good.
    Smacked the starter with a wrench, the one click came back, and eventually cranked and started right up.
    Does this eliminate the possibility that its the ignition switch, and confirm it has to be the starter going out?
    I only say this because the previous owner has history of the starter being replaced several times for whatever reason.
     
     
     
    Most likely, check the fuse links at the positive battery cable. That was the problem with mine and I hunted for it for quite some time.

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  2. Hello all!
     
    I am in the middle of a front end refresh (CV axles, repack bearings/replace seals, rotors, pads, TRE, ball joints, sway bar bushings) and have hit a snag:
     
    When I peeled off my passenger side CV axle, I saw what I believe to be some nasty gear oil leaking out of the flange of the differential side shaft. I have a couple of questions regarding this discovery:
    - how could gear oil make it to the flange of the side shaft (where the CV axle mates) as the seals are inboard on the extension tube (this is the side opposite the pumpkin)?
    -is this just CV axle grease that has leaked out of the blown CV axle? smells a bit like gear oil however... but that could have been my gloves, that smell sticks around forever. The bottom of the extension tube doesn't appear to have a leak, just tons of old grease from the blown CV boots.
    -if I want to replace the grease and oil seals in the extension tube, can I remove the whole side shaft assembly from the extension tube by removing the four bolts on the extension tube retainer and pulling the shaft out, no need to mess with the internals of the diff. I don't see a retaining clip in there on the FSM diagram like is common on rear differentials to keep the shaft in place.
     
    The FSM for the R200A front axle (what I believe to have, 94 SE 4x4, MT, HG43 axle code in door jamb) has a single frame of a diagram showing a hammer tapping the side shaft assembly but is short on instructions. Attached is a frame of the manual showing the assembly I'm talking about. Thanks in advance.
     
    siggy
     
     
    differential.thumb.JPG.456d29eaaa806b4d3765e100c0228809.JPG
    Looks like is going to be like a ford 9 inch. The bearing presses on the axle shaft and the entire assembly is held in by the 4 bolt retainer plate. Remove the 4 bolts, I'd use a chisel to get between the mating surfaces to loosen it first. Then a couple of love taps with a ball peen and it should be free. That's the way I used to do it anyway on the old ford 9's.

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  3.  
    I'm a bit outside of the Seattle area and it's the same. Everyone seems to be doing a good job with social distancing/sheltering other than for grocery shopping/walks. I'm still working, both from home and having to go in to support unfortunately. Happy to have a job that's flexible though, some aren't doing as well with the shutdown of non-essential businesses.
    I'm in North Central Texas, its not quite as bad here. It does seem that it's all of the "leftys" are grabbing all of the TP and water above food.. I live well outside a large metropolitan area and they're freaking out. It's calm around here, it'd be better if I could keep the misses offa' Facebook. Shes telling me everywhere close where new cases are just popping up.. Just irritating, I gotta hear it from the lamestream media, from my alternative sources for news and my wife... It's absolutely maddening!!!

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  4. I would definitely do an inspection in the fuel tank, my wd21 has set up twice for several years with varying issues. The first time wasn't a problem, started it up and added new fuel to the tank. The second, the fuel pump sounded very rough, it had set up for roughly 4-5 yrs. I pulled the pump and the tank was full of rust due to the ethanol in the fuel attracting moisture. However I did pull the tank to clean it, but, pulling the pump doesn't take that long and is well worth it imho..

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  5. Any check engine lights? The cat is a possibility, but, if its faulty it should set a code. The shaking at idle could be EGR, throttle body may be dirty, idle air control valve, or just the need for a tune up. The OBD2 system does a decent job of monitiring all of the intricacies of enngine performance and management.
    I would start with the basic stuff like a tune up, check the mass air flow sensor and your vacuum lines, it could be hunting for idle.

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  6. I have a 2007 Chevy 3/4 ton with a 6.6 Duramax and it's been a great truck, the mileage hauling/towing is better than that of its gas counterpart. That truck has been driven from Texas to Colorado many times while my eldest was in college in CO. When driven conservatively I have gotten 18 mpg towing a trailer.
    I will agree with you about all of the current diesels with all of the dpf system and extra smog crap, its not worth it, I wouldn't have a new one. My 6.6 is one of the last years before they started putting all of that smog crap on them and completely ruining the practicality of a diesel truck. I have a friend that had my truck newer gas counterpart, 2015 GMC 6.0 gas 3/4 ton truck, it towed just fine, but, only got 12 mpg, the absolute best mileage ive gotten towing is 19.8 towing a 6000 lb vehicle on a U-haul trailer from Texas to Alabama on the flat stretches with a tailwind, 70 mph seems to be the DMaxes sweet spot for towing mileage.
    Government mandates on emmisions have killed the draw, at least for me, to newer diesel trucks. As for the 5.0 Cummins the engine itself would be a beast without all of the smog crap on it and in a lighter truck/vehicle.

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  7. Yeah, I know the 4bt is heavy, 300 lbs heavier than the vg30, I think it would be we'll worth the time or at least investigating the possibility. What would be awesome if it could be bolted directly to the manual 5 speed. I am sure there would definitely be an SAS in this deal too..

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  8. It has been done, many times I am sure. There are many options available, personally, id yank the engine, have the bottom end rebuilt and do a VG33 head swap, better performance with the same wiring and injection system, no mods necessary other than the head upgrade. There are affordable rebuild kits out there and with a bit of machine on the bottom end along with the cylinder head upgrade, you'll be golden.

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