Willfly4money

Removing clutch springs to get to the piston for reverse, this is done for all clutches. The pesky high clutch in pieces.

On to the oil pump! Ready for assembly after cleaning and new seals

yeah thats really weird, I'd like to share but my connection wont work.

Still not showing up, I'm not sure if its on my side or not but I give up for now!

I moved some of the pictures to an album in photobucket and now they won't show up here.... plus I can no longer edit my previous posts. Here are the missing pics: Burnt high clutch:

Valve body all torqued together, you really have to take lots of pictures and/or mark each bolt location and size, the manual helps but it still takes some "deductive reasoning" to get these in the right hole!

I received the rebuild kit from amazon last night and finished up the valve body, now to start on the clutches and pistons etc.

Both valve bodies dismantled for cleaning and inspection.... Lots of ziplock bags!

Sorry for the late reply,I haven't quite figured this forum out yet. I had hoped the can would be an easy install but the Jerry can was just too wide and masked the tail lights at certain angles.

Well my third gear has been slipping for the last couple of months, about a week ago, third finally went completely out! A buddy and I went to the local you pull it in order to grab one out of a 95 4x4 but it was full of water..... So I pulled my tranny in my backyard which took quite a few hours since I was by myself!! And just like clockwork, the high clutch was burnt to a crisp:) everything else seems to be in good order. Albeit with 178000 on it the rest of the clutches are right at the wear limit. I'll be rebuilding this unit with an ATP NM-20 kit, it should be in tomorrow. By the way, the best price I got on this rebuild kit is 150! Rockauto lists it for 200.

Good question, keep in mind that the mount I built its completely custom, this "arrangement" is a friction fit and holds the can very tight. The insurance is the chain that holds the can from moving vertical in the mount as shown in the pic. I don't have any solid evidence to the fact other than several hundred miles of highway driving with it at 65mph. As far as bumpy trail driving goes, the chain would keep it attached to the vehicle. Years of flying and working on airplanes with very flammable substances has led me to believe that if you keep the fuel away from ignition, you will mitigate some level of hazards. This of course doesn't take into account someone slamming into the back of your vehicle.... If that is a concern, please don't mount a hazmat container externally to the rear of your vehicle. BUT if looking "cool" and not running out of gas is your thing, by all means, fab it up gents!!!

The cage mount looks awesome, I didn't know about US can, doesn't surprise me though in this day and age. Ive got my can chained to the tire mount so as to preclude having to buy another. But if someone wants to steal it, they will! Side-note, if anyone knows of a good metal cap as shown on the nato can above, please let me know, the midwest can I have came with a plastic cap/filler neck.

You know, Im not sure. I actually got the can from harbor freight and it is Midwest brand.

It is actually painted with Duplicolor rubberized undercoat from rattle cans, it isnt very durable and scrapes off fairly easy. I plan on bedliner in the near future.

Not sure if these pics posted but here is my Jerry-Can installation on my 94 pathy. Had to relocate the tire mount and fabricate the can mounts. Also had to cut and reweld the tire rack latch-lever shown in the pics. Just finished today after putting "newer" rear springs in. I have done QUITE a bit of work on this truck since purchasing for $1500 but I still like it nonetheless!!