nismotr
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Posts posted by nismotr
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My truck had similar symptoms and the new distributor cleared everything up for me, hope that works for you too.
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I wouldn't go in debt buying aftermarket parts first of all. But if you do, I would do it piecemeal and upgrade as you go, if the tires are fine I would get the lift first. Ordering the coils separate should save you some dosh, since the kits cost significantly more if I'm not mistaken.
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Go with the Goodyear Authority if they have your size, They are just as good as the duratracs for a lot less. I've had mine for about a year or two now, they've worn well and do great offroad. Just like the duratracs though, they are @!*% in the rain, really easy to spin out even with our underpowered v6's.
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Turned out to be another distributor problem, second one I have replaced in the last 6 months, something must be wrong... But it turns out my Qx is eligible for recall and has a 1" hole in the frame, so I may not have this thing much longer.
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The p0340 and p0325 were the only codes lettered codes that it gave, I'm guessing the other 'codes' were symptoms that the scanner was reading off, appreciate the service manual link however.
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Hey everyone, yesterday I was making my drive from school to home, about 3.5 hours, and then my Qx4 starts pulsing rpms at about 3k, I limped it to an exit and got my buddy to pick me up with a car trailer. Once I got it home, I scanned for codes and got a laundry list, p0340, p0325, and a bunch of O2, egr, and other assorted fuel/air problems. Anyone have any insight? I know p0340 is a camshaft sensor and p0325 is a knock sensor, would replacing these help, or am I in for a world of headaches and empty pockets? Thanks!
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I installed a pioneer head unit with an aux and usb port after my Bose unit shat the bed. I wish I had saved up and done the speaker and amp set-up at the same time, because all the speakers started to go one by one until only the passenger front speaker was working. An amped door speaker set-up works really nice for me, not as much base as I would like though. A good way to get a sub and amp in the car without taking up room all the time is to make a removable box for it that you can quickly connect and disconnect.
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I guess I must have misread your first post, doh.
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At anything over 4" I think your money would be better invested in a waggy d44 sas instead, more capable and a whole lot safer than an sfd if it's done right.
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Any update on this? I was genuinely curious about how this mod worked out for you.
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I figured as much, 60 bucks is pretty hefty just for that piece, sharpie is cheaper...
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You are much better off getting a wagoneer front axle, its the right width, has the pumpkin on the right side, and has the right amount of lugs. Using a low pinion d44 is probably one of the harder things to finagle in and is weak enough to make it pretty pointless, just wait for a waggy axle.
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Every time you install a new suspension component in our pathy's, you're going to need an alignment. You also may need to invest in camber bolts.
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These guys have what you want: https://www.4x4parts.com/nissan/
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Hey all, really stupid question, but does anyone know where to get the little plastic piece that indicates which gear you are in (P,R,N,D,2,1) for an r50? I'm trying to get my Infiniti ready to sell and mine is broken in a million pieces. This is a part that I can't find no matter how hard I look because I don't know what to call it, or if anyone even sells them.
Thanks!
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Your r50 looks awesome snow! hope you get the front end sorted out, now I'm starting to understand rocky's point of view on the nx4 spacers! haha
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Well at that point you might as well roll the window down, lol
-Kyle
depends on how deep you cut the half doors.
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haha, there is no option in the profile creator for a qx4, hence why it doesn't count.
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I think the best option for us pathy owners is probably half doors instead of fully removable ones, especially considering how much electronic crap is attached to our doors, I'd like to see someone try though. Also you will probably compromise some of the strength of the unibody frame without doors attached.
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That's a good read, thank you for the info. I'm putting on the milemarker hubs on as soon as I get some free garage space... Funds are limited right now anyways, so the spacer might be a bit far off anyways.
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I am aware of the strut top out issue, my Qx4 reminds me every time I hit a pothole haha. I just bought a set of locking hubs and I know that's not a full time fix, but it will only really affect my cv's when I'm offroad, so there won't be a constant strain, but it is something I am keeping in mind. If I end up buying the spacers, I will definitely have a handy dandy measuring device to show others how it looks. The ultimate goal for me is to be able to run 33's on the ifs with some cutting, without an sfd and not have it look like dog doo and fix the ugly rake. I really appreciate your input rocky2, even if I do end up neglecting it. Thank you muddyr50!
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Great info from everyone, thanks, I have a rear hitch installed although it is hard to see and I just drug it on some rocks yesterday wheelin'. I would cut the rear coils, but I have heard many horror stories about coil cutting so I don't think that's my best option although it might help with how rough the rear rides. Theexbrit, I read their information page, but wanted to get a better consensus from the people who own them, we have almost the same setup so I'm not sure if I want to fight with adjusting the camber if I do end up buying them.
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I'm wondering if anyone who has installed them has any before/after pics. I'm debating getting a set, but I'm not sure how much of a difference it will really make. I hate the rake that the 2" ac coils give, way too high in the back relative to the front. Also, which setup is preferred? top mount? middle mount?
this is how my Qx4 looks with just the 2" lift:
I'm also considering installing bumpers and a winch in the near future so I'm hoping to get some extra lift so the front doesn't sag any more than it already does.
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You're probably going to have to deal with it until you get a new head unit, replacements are expensive and the repairs for you problems cost about the same as an average head unit.
TIre comparison
in General Forums
Posted
You obviously have never owned them, they chunk a little worse than the duratracs, but they don't fall apart. It's just a mass produced duratrac for nearly half the price, don't expect the rubber to be the best and you won't be disappointed. I'm willing to bet they are actually a better offroad tire than the duratrac considering the more aggressive tread pattern.