qatcool
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Posts posted by qatcool
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i have a code for knock sensor, can this cause this? when the engine is cold, it runs fine and shifts fine,but it get hots thats when the stumbling happens. even in neutral, when its cold you can rev up to 6000 rpm, but when its hot it only rev up to 3000 rpm and its start to shake. my 1st suspect is the MAF but a mechanic told me that it might be the fuel pump. is their a replacement MAF can you please give me the part code that fits VG33E.
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I need your advise.
My pathy runs just fine at low rev between 1500 - 2000 rpm, as i step on the gas pedal, and it reaches 3000 - 3500 when it shifts it will shake, as i release the gas then the next gear will come, i have replace the fuel pump and filter nothing happened. when the whether is hot it does even at 2500 rpm. can somebody advide what look for the problem. can the MAF do this? distributor maybe?
is my transmission failing?
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My 2002 R50 came with 3.3ltr. VG33, I believe VQ has 3.5 ltrs.
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have you replace the fuel pump?
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UPDATE:
The MAF did not fix it
The EGI did not fix it
The car drives...well, ok...car runs very rough at idle, idles between 400-600 instead of the 200-400 it was at with the old MAF. Upon acceleration from a stop, it hesitates and is very sluggish between 1000 and 2500 RPM. At that RPM it pick up dramatically. I can feel the engine miss while cruising at 1200-2000 rpm on very light throttle. NO MIL and NO codes have come up.
Called the stealership yesterday to ask about the service bulletin I posted yesterday. They said it would be around $250 CAD but they would diagnose first.
I am very tempted to take it there, have them do this service and ask them to check/adjust the timing. My wife is pi$$ed and is blaming the me and the snorkel installation for this...
Calgon take me away!!!!I know how you feel....just a thought, when my a/c compressor was change they have mistaken 2 vacuum lines in the canister. maybe you have swap the lines?
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Any change after replacing the MAF?
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While waiting for your truck to get fix.. so i can follow your lead, my a/c died need to spend 2000QR for the fixed.... my wife had enough of my pathy...
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Ok, so I removed my distributor and other than the slight surface rust on some parts and a bit more play than the new one, there were no other issues I could find.
Changed it and everything seemed fine for a while. Then I put it in reverse and it bogged again.
So, that is negatory on the fixin' department for:
Distributor
TPS
AICV
plugs
wires
cap/rotor
Next to try:
MAF then,
Fuel Pump then,
O2 Sensors then,
EGI relay (apparently these fail as well...this relay powers the injectors to fire fuel into the cylinders.)
This part can fit to VG 33E?
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No, not nissan. ORdered from Rock Auto.
950-7002 DENSO Fuel pump with mesh filter
5S2718 Ultrapower Mass Airflow Sensor
SG351 Standard Motor Products Oxygen Sensor, Downstream Left
SG284 Standard Motor Products Oxygen Sensor, Upstream Left
SG291 Standard Motor Products Oxygen Sensor, Upstream Right
1564101 Beck/Arnley Oxygen Sensor, Downstream Right
Yeh, can't wait for my parts to arrive (shipping today only
) She's losin' it Capt'n...won't hold together...much...longer! 
Thank you for this information. if you can help me also for the knock sensor. and harness.
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Funny you should mention this as there is another thread just posted where the culprit appears to be either the o2 sensor(s) or the cats. Maybe I should remove the cats now...
Seriously though, thank you CHAOSMARINE for this.
This just makes me feel all better since yesterday I ordered a $#itload of parts (all four o2 sensors, MAF, fuel pump) and I still have to replace my distributor.
Hey Timmons,
I did not notice any arcing or burn marks on my dist., just some rusty areas. Regardless, I think tomorrow I am going to replace my distributor and if that does not work, next on the agenda is the fuel pump, MAF and o2 sensors (whenever they arrive)
Did you to nissan? can you provide me the part numbers? thanks
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I think the 2002's have a VQ35, don't they? Being as how you are in Qatar however, 2002's might have come with VG33s there. If you are sure you have a VG33 then it should fit.
I am not sure. Might be, since the knock sensor is meant to detect detonation. If your engine ran lean during the stumbling/stalling it could have caused code PO0325 (someone please correct/add if I am completely wrong or missed something)
There is something odd with my engine...spring last year, I ran some horrid fuel (only gas station around) and it messed with my fuel system. Said fuel caused the engine to miss and detonate ( I could hear the pinging) yet my knock sensor never went off. After that fuel tank, I used a fuel additive to get rid of impurities in the fuel and got some good gas. Didn't have issues again until late last year when the car started stalling while idling.
I should have never sold my Scangauge II. I could be using it right now to monitor fuel pressures and such when the engine stumbles/stalls. I might need to get another one.
My 2002 have a VG33, I went out lastnight to a mechanic, we observe even if i step on the gas pedal it wont rev up and it start to shake/stamble until i release the gas pedal then it will shift. he told me to check the catalytic conveter and remove what ever is in there. is this a good idea?
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I just got the code PO0325 knock sensor. will this fault can cause this? what happen when knock sensor fails.
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Do you get any stumbling under load? Does it mostly happen when the engine is warm? On a cold start all is well but then starts the stumble?
Sounds similar to when my distributor went out.
1st: Check your fuel pressure. Making sure the fuel pump and regulator is good to go. How to and what pressures are in the FSM. Pretty easy to follow.
To check your distributor. You can take off the cap and rotor. Once off, you should see some screws to take off the internal cover. Take that off carefully. Now you will see the coil and ignition module. You can check all the wires in there for any loose connections, corrosion etc. But, you can also remove the components easily.
What I found, was my coil was grounding out to the distributor housing on the bottom. To where just looking at everything assembled up top looked normal. If your fuel pressure is good to go. I would check these components in your distributor.
A quick check and Amazon has our distributor for Link: $97
Will this fit in 2002 VG 33E engine?
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Maybe the issue is caused by the pump warming up and that is when it starts acting up...otherwise it could be the O2 sensors as it only happens when they are supposed to be at normal operating temperature...
Anyway, I just got my distributor and I have a course of action that I'm sticking to. I am going to replace the distributor first, then the fuel pump and then the O2 sensors. If that does not work well, the last two things to replace are the MAF sensor ($$$$) and the fuel pressure regulator ($$$$ or long hours taking the IM off...again just to change the FPR.)
I want to keep this truck and I guess that replacing parts that are 15 years old is not that bad a thing. If anything, I will, hopefully get another 10-15 years out of it. Still cheaper than buying a new car...
I'll see if I can do this on-by Friday n I'll post. Really friggin busy @ work this week.
I have read somewhere here that they used a MAF from nissan Maxima, although the engine is VQ, can we use the same in our VG.
Thanks
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HI i am also keeping an eye on it goes, and i am also not mechanically inclined. just a question how many O2 sensors does are R50 has and the location. may be I can DIY this thing. Thanks
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Yah, no worries. I already researched the snot out of "Distributor Change on R50s". I don't have a timing light andI don't want to have to pay to get the car towed or fixed so yeas, marking everything and photographing is high on the agenda. WHo knows, I might just do a video tutorial again.
Time to brush up on my automotive parts-speak.
Oh, when I find the fix for this problem, I will be posting it. I will be so happy to get rid of this issue, it will be posted for everyone to see, read, hear, etc., etc., etc.
Any luck finding the fix?
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I believe we have the same dilemma, please let us know when you solve the problem. i will look forward
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Hi all, I have this concern of delayed shifting. this only happens in the afternoon when oil is already hot. i went to Nissan and told me that the transmission is already finish due to burn oil and need to replace the transmission. 1 mechanic told me that this is due to TPS throttle position sensor.
I am planning to change the transmission oil. any advice. is my transmission already gone.
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2002 nissan pathfinder, automatic trans.
Running in highway, between 2000 to 4000 rpm no issue, but when i step on the gas and the rev goes 5000rpm it hesitated to shift as if i have a missfire. as i loose the gas it shift right away.
please your advice where to start looking.
Thanks
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- I asked 1 of a mechanic, and he just adjusted the TPS, I dont what it is, i believe its throtlle position sensor. and its ok now. he informed me that it is shifting late.
- I asked 1 of a mechanic, and he just adjusted the TPS, I dont what it is, i believe its throtlle position sensor. and its ok now. he informed me that it is shifting late.
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Its been a year since i bought my Pathy, i replace all under - chasis bushing, ignition coil,spark plug, and fuel filter. but 1 concern that i dont know how to address is the shift shock, you can feel the transimission shifting especially from 1st to 2nd gear, according to my mechanic its normal, sometimes the shifting is smooth when i rev up to 3500. anybody here can advice?
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Thanks for the reply, I had it top up, pressure is 35 on suction and 165 on discharge
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Last Year I had my A/C compressor replaced ( AC delco). it seems fine, now that summer has come, i dont feel that it is cooling especially during noon.
any body here knows whats the working pressure of the refrigerant?
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This is what I got from the nameplate RE4 RO1A H646, and my shift PRND12, it's made in Japan.
Need Help Trouble shooting 95 Pathfinder
in The Garage
Posted
Have you found the repair?