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TyzToyz

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Posts posted by TyzToyz

  1. Well, bad news. After 20+ hrs of diagnostic time at a shop, it was finally found that the timing belt drive gear (on the crank) ate a chunk out of the crankshaft right beside the key-way where the woodruff key goes. Funny thing about this is that the timing belt was replaced 2 years ago and it took this long to rear it's ugly head (that the crank pulley bolt was not torqued properly), so I can't even go back on the mechanic for this.

    Has anyone ever heard of repairing a damaged crankshaft with this sort of damage? Oh yeah, without removing the engine or crank.

    Here is a bad cell phone pic of the damaged crank:

     

    Edit: Guess I'm not allowed to post pictures here :thumbsdown:

     

    Thanks for looking,

     

    Tye

  2. No dice on the Dizzy, TPS, or the AFM. The only thing that helps even a little bit is turning the dizzy to advance the timing.

    What tells the injectors to dump more fuel when starting cold?

    I really don't know where to go from here with no codes being thrown.

    Where is the fuel filter on these things?

    Is there an free on-line service manual kicking around? I cannot stand haynes/chilton manuals.

    Any other suggestions?

     

    Tye

  3. Thanks to all who replied. I finally got my hands on a code reader, but it was not much help to me.

    There were 2 codes stored and neither one really helped me diagnose the problem. I had a multiple misfire code and a knock sensor code.

    To me, the knock sensor would not cause the symptoms that ails this thing. Please correct me if I am wrong.

    The thing that bothers me the most is the not starting issue. Only the first start of the morning does it start hard (I have to crank the engine for 35-45 seconds), after she warms up, it starts like normal.

    Is there a cold start injector on these engines?

    After she is running, there is a rattle/knock (which may explain the knock sensor code), and does not like to be responsive (throttle wise)right from idle. It bogs a bit and then accepts throttle somewhat normally after that. I do notice a lack of power (pull) while driving, but can slowly get up to highway speed.

    I have checked and set the TPS and advanced the timing a tiny bit which seemed to help a little bit but by far not back to normal.

    I am at a bit of a loss here and do not wish to dump a bunch of money into this thing as it is getting up there in age and is becoming more and more unreliable for my wife to be driving my kids around in.

    Does anyone have any suggestions on where to go from here?

    Thanks again for any and all help with this,

     

    Tye

  4. Hey all,

    Vehichle in question: 1997 Pathfinder 4x4, 3.3L with 190,000km and an automatic.

    Before I get the codes read (gonna cost me $150 at the stealership), I am hoping to get some pre advise on the diagnosis of this problem (there is NO check engine light on).

    Engine cranks over fine but I have to let it turn over for between 30 to 45 seconds before it will start to fire and eventually run after a few seconds of roughness (strong fuel smell). After she starts, the engine has very little power from no throttle till 1/4 throttle and then it is OK but not perfect. Overall there is a real lack of power (from before not in general) and gets HORRIBLE gas mileage (240km's to a tank of fuel).

    So far I have done a basic tune up (plugs, air filter, seafoam through intake) to no avail.

    I'm thinking it is a bummed sensor and was hoping that mabey someone has experienced similar issues and can provide a starting point before I spend the $150 to get the codes read. Please let me know if more info is required,

    Thanks for any and all suggestions,

     

    Tye

  5. Were you trying to pull the truck out in reverse (strap hooked to your front)?

    If so, this is most defenitely why it broke. If at all possible, you should always hook to the rear and do your tuggin' forward.

    I wheeled the piss out of my 86 Toy (IFS) for 6 years on 34" swampers. I never had any problems with my front diff.

     

    Tye

  6. I'm wondering. Is it only the rearmost 2 bolts that are different in the 1990-1995 Pathfinders for the Body lift, or the rearmost 4. I had heard it was only the last 2 that are different, but I looked at the kit from AC with the added bolts for the newer WD21's, and there's 4 added bolts.

     

    So, which is it?

    Yes, it is just the 2 rear most bolts that are different. They are M10x1.25, the rest of them are M8x1.25.

     

    Tye

  7. If you buy the BL kit from AC they supply you with all the hardware, bolts etc. that you'll need. The 2 rear bolts are High strength harden metric bolts with 1.00 (fine) pitch thread, the chances of finding a Metric HS bolt with fine pitch in the length and size you need locally is slim to none. Using threaded rod I would strongly recommend against that. Nissan uses the type of bolts they've chosen (OEM) for a reason, there is a huge amount of stress that those bolts are subject to, even more so with any increase in BL lift. The AC kit puts the right stuff in the kit, so no prob!

    I found the bolts I needed at a local supply house with no problem at all.

    The threads are NOT 1.00, but 1.25.

    And with 10 bolts holding the body on, there is NOT a HUGE amount of stress on those 2 rear bolts. I drove around for weeks without the 2 rear bolts in with absolutely no ill effects.

    The kit that AC sells is just a re-badged Performance Accesories kit that I found locally for waaaaaay cheaper.

    BTW, the bolts were only $3 each.

     

    Tye

  8. I haven't owned my 93 Pathy for very long (just coming up on a year), the temp gauge usually sits at just before the halfway mark. One in awhile when sitting in traffic it goes just a little bit past the halfway mark.

    To my knowledge it has never overheated, but I do not really trust factory gauges.

    I also replaced an outer boot on my CV axle recently. I did not have to remove the inboard boot inorder to replace it, however, I did have to remove the whole axle assembly in order to get a good whack at it.

    The boot was $11 at a local parts store.

    Good Luck,

     

    Tye

  9. January 20th is a Saturday :P . Wish I could make it but I have a stag to attend on the 20th.

    Being from Calgary, it is a bit of a venture for me to get there. But one of these days I want to bring the Toy up there and check the place out.

     

    Tye

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