Qx4donald
-
Posts
86 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Calendar
Posts posted by Qx4donald
-
-
If you do it be sure to torque the bushings down with weight on the wheels. FSM states all rubber bushing be torqued with weight on wheels. This is because you want the bushings to be in a neutral position when the vehicle is on the ground under it's own weight. If you torque them up with the wheels hanging down they will be neutral in that position. When you lower the vehicle on to the wheels you're going to be winding up those bushings and you don't want that with the vehicle in a static position. They're supposed to wind up when the suspension is traveling up and down over bumps. Not doing this will probably wear out those new bushings a lot faster than they should.
If I torque with the rear diff lifted in the air (jackstand underneath as a "catch" if something were to slip) would this be sufficient? or did I screw it up? I didn't have the rear-tires nor spare wheel installed as it gave me better access to torque the bolts down.
I also laid on a hefty amount of marine grease (inside and outside the bushings) on the reinstall, I'm guessing even the grease may not help it "un-wind" when in neutral position (ie. weight on the wheels).
Here's a pic I snapped of the UTA. There's grease all over those bushings
specifically, between the bracket and bushing itself. Though, Under ~100ft-lbs of torque, not sure if the grease would even allow it to unwind (assuming I torqued it improperly).
-
I started to change out the bushings on my trailing arms.
Not having a proper press of some sort really hurts
I rented a ball-joint press in hopes it'd help me out... turns out not so much. Only used it to push out the center sleeve, then I put in work with a hacksaw and cut the metal collar out. Not very fun.
Took me 3hours (from PB Blast'ing to metal collar out).
Will resume work on the 3 remaining arms and will Plasti-dip them .... there goes my weekendRound 1 of 4
-
That's what I thought, and I agree with you too.
Unfortunately, based on my intentional trials before and after the hub install, I saw about 1 or 2mpg, but it wasn't consistent.
If you're interested this was my experiment:
A. Prior to hub install
I filled 3 tanks of 91octane and took mpg
Filled 2 tanks of 89 octane gathered mpg
Filled 2 tanks of 87 octane, took mpg
B. After hub install
Same as above
My daily commute is basically the same, 3mi to highway, 35mi highway, then another 2mi street to work. Then reverse going home.
The results were not significant to make mpg the main reason to install.
As I've learned by fellow NPORA'ers is biggest benefit is to reduce wear and tear on the front axles/CV
Sent from the Nexus4
-
This is what I got for my 01 qx4. My sibling also got this same one for his 02 pathfinder. I don't think it'll matter much between se, xe, or whatever.Could I please get a few part numbers for the hubs that are known to work on the 2002 Pathfinder SE model? Id love to improve my mileage in any way I can.
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000CQDPIQ/ref=cm_sw_r_udp_awd_3oIMsb17D0F14
You'll notice that amazon may say this doesn't fit, but reviews confirms a verified purchaser that used it on a 02 pathfinder also.
And as a precaution, don't be disappointed if the mpg savings are nil
Sent from the Nexus4
-
this is what I did for my old maxima with power antenna.I fixed my stock power antenna a short time after getting the truck. It was fairly simple, all I did was open the case and swap out the mast. It's worked pretty well since, but then it worked alright before too, and also there's jack all on the radio around here.
Getting to the antenna was a PITA, though.
Where did you go for the mast and what was the part number? Thanks in advance.
Sent from the Nexus4
-
If it's indeed the control arm bushings, I believe you can grab them and wiggle them (upper and lower) to confirm, especially if the bushings are that worn out to be causing a clack. As for replacing just the bushings vs new/rebuilt control arms... I'd vote new bushings, though new bushings will require work on your part to remove old bushings, and depending on how easy it is to replace the arm with new bushing's back into place. I say bushings only because of The potential performance return compared to the standard rubber bushing (the 4x4parts.com split bushings are polyurethane). As I priced it, there doesn't seem to be any money savings either way. Replacing the escrow control arm, of course, is easier in regards to labor. Sent from the Nexus4
sorry... I said Control Arm... I meant to say "Trailing Arm" bushings.
The control arms are at the front. The trailing arms consist of the pair of lower ("bigger") arms and a pair of upper ("smaller") arms.
I'd assume OP meant trailing arms as well (fyi to others: trailing arms are also known as "lateral links" - upper and lower, or "radius arms", again distinguishing upper and lower)
I couldn't find the bushings you referred to at AutoPartsWay.ca. However, if they are $16.87/each... and assuming they mean 1-single bushing, you'd need a total of 8 to replace all 4 arms.
8 x $17 ($17 just to make things easier) = $136.
So, yes, that's cheaper than the ~$185 split-design cost from 4x4parts.com... and I'm now realizing you're from Canada, so shipping may be a bit hefty to ship internationally - I'm not certain about the cost. To ship to me (in California), the cost is $25.
IMO - you can never really tell which "Polyurethane" product is better quality than the other. There aren't too many people that purposefully go out and test/experiment with multiple polyurethane suspension products, and especially for Pathfinder/Qx4 vehicles (this is my opinion of course).
Obviously you can rely on others' experiences... but it looks like most here on NPORA purchase from 4x4parts.com
good luck.
-
I thought the antenna should get as close our higher than the roof of The vehicle for good reception. The euro/plastic stubby antennas ate usually found on the top of The car (euro), right?
My power antenna is also broken and sits below my roof level and at certain areas my reception gets a little static
Sent from the Nexus4
-
Is there any news to clean out the green grease that was in there to begin with? What's the general interval egger grease need to be added?
Sent from the Nexus4
-
Assuming you replace all bushings on all 4 arms, buying the ADUS for $45/pair is about the same cost as the complete trailing arm kit from 4x4parts.com ($185 + ~$25s&h), which includes new bolts and nuts - and even though you have access to a press, the 4x4parts bushing kit is split design.So, did you install the split bushings without the outer metal sleeve? I did find another poly bushing, although it is a 1 piece, from Armstrong Distributors, ADUS 594. $45/pair.
Sent from the Nexus4
-
If it's indeed the control arm bushings, I believe you can grab them and wiggle them (upper and lower) to confirm, especially if the bushings are that worn out to be causing a clack.
As for replacing just the bushings vs new/rebuilt control arms... I'd vote new bushings, though new bushings will require work on your part to remove old bushings, and depending on how easy it is to replace the arm with new bushing's back into place.
I say bushings only because of The potential performance return compared to the standard rubber bushing (the 4x4parts.com split bushings are polyurethane).
As I priced it, there doesn't seem to be any money savings either way. Replacing the escrow control arm, of course, is easier in regards to labor.
Sent from the Nexus4
-
Part 2 of 4 ATF drain/refill, drain/refill on front and rear diffDid part 1 of 4 transmission drain/refill, drain/refill on transfer case
... And sprayed lysol into vents to kill some of that stank on the evap core
Sent from TapaAtrix
Sent from TapaAtrix
-
Did part 1 of 4 transmission drain/refill, drain/refill on transfer case
... And sprayed lysol into vents to kill some of that stank on the evap core
Sent from TapaAtrix
-
Although, I strongly believe your mileage (ie experience, sorry for the pun) may vary in regards to fuel savings
I see no improvement to fuel economy when I have them locked or unlocked; it's generally 17mpg mixed driving for me. But, like I said, maybe it's a small population that see no fuel savings.
I still think it's a worthwhile update to the rig.
Sent from TapaAtrix
-
Sorry to hear of the brief delay in sacto. I live in sacto area, and besides seeing this thread so late, I wouldn't have been able to help much other than stare at the rig :-P
Nonetheless, glad it worked out and you were able to get back on the road.
Sent from TapaAtrix
-
reviving an old thread? yes - sorry.
Just figured I'd post up for those future seekers of information.
of that zerk fitting on my 2001 Qx4.I could only find a zerk/grease point on the front propeller shaft. when checking the rear propeller shaft, I found no serviceable point - which confused me; from what I understand the grease point is to grease the slip yoke within the shaft and if the purpose of the slip yoke is to allow contraction/extension of the propeller shaft due to suspension changes, why isn't their one on the rear as well?
sorry for calling it a propeller shaft
for all you "drive shaft" folks out there 
-
1
-
-
I'm sure many of you guys know what's going on... but i just got my letter today.
Pretty cool if you ask me - the fact that they were able to find me that is. I've never gotten any official letter/notification from Infiniti/Nissan before, especially being the 3rd owner.
I don't live or don't believe the truck has ever been to any of the listed states/areas, but I'm considering taking it in to see what might happen.
-
Hey All,
I'm getting ready to buy my OME lift. I'm planning on getting the Springs from Rugged Rocks:
OME2928 Heavy Load for the Fronts
OME2922 Medium Load for the Rear
I seem to recall people having problems with the OME shocks and recommending the KB GR2's and Gas-a-Justs, is that accurate?
Are KYB 335035, KYB 335056 and KYB 343379 the correct part numbers for those? Also, I know I need to get new OEM strut mounts and bearings, would anyone happen to know the part numbers for those?
Thanks in advance,
per the KYB catalog: http://www.kyb.com/catalogs/index.php
KYB GR-2 struts: RH=335032, LH=335033
KYB GR-2 shocks: both are 343379
or alternatively
KYB Gas-A-Just: both are KG4163
Nissan OEM strut bearing: something along the lines of "54325"
Nissan OEM strut mount: something along the lines "54320"
*I use "something along the lines of" because some dealerships append their own tracking/serial numbers to the part numbers, but all should have the same "base" number
If I were you, I'd bring a copy of the parts list illustration to make sure they order the correct part (to avoid the hassle of 15% restocking fee if THEY order the wrong part)
CourtesyParts.com - 1996-2004 Pathfinder front suspension
In regards to the rear shocks...
I had purchased both the KYB GR-2 (aka Excel) and Gas-A-Justs rear shocks from Amazon.com. Comparing the 2, the Gas-A-Justs had noticably* more resistance in them as far as slowly compressing the GR-2 and Gas-A-Justs (ie. Gas-A-Justs took more strength to push down and comparess compared to the GR-2). I also did a hand-shock comparison, where I'd just momentarily press and release my weight to each shock. Again, the Gas-A-Just provided noticably* more resistance to compress.
I went for the Gas-A-Justs, just because they were a little more "heavy duty-ness" to them, compared to the GR-2 rear shocks.
*noticably - by this I mean, you can feel the difference. I wouldn't say it was MUCH more different, but enough difference to be able to notice.
However, not sure if you're concerned with looks or not, but here's my truck with the white Gas-A-Justs in the rear. The white makes them quite noticable. They only come in white.
-
I've got the MD's all around with KYB GR-2's in the front and KYB Gas-A-Justs in the rear.
I haven't done any off-roading or anything, just pavement.
Ride is definitely manageable.
Of course, I'll say the ride is a bit stiffer compared to the stock-setup.
I can say this... when I go over the narryow-type of speed-bumps, I bounce once in my new OME suspension.
In the stock suspension, I recall it being about 2-3 times, with reduced "bounce height" due to the dampening (ie. it wasn't 2-3 full extensions of the suspension)
-
Busted rubber brake line! Good call Simon.
Heat ruined the pad(s) so now I have to replace both sides and replace the rotors as they are too worn to turn them. Throw in replacing the busted line and having him install the NX4 strut spacers while he is "in the area" will set me back $800.
Thank goodness for my "rainy day" savings account! *sigh*
I'm hoping that the $800 includes new pads, new rotors, new brake fluid, and te spacers...
otherwise, $800 just to do the fronts? sounds kind off.
The rotors and pads should be pretty straightforward (except for the wheel bearing lock nut which requires some added ingenuity - look here). The fluid on an ABS system, I'm not too familiar with - I've always though you had to do them in a special way or something.
The Spacers should be WAYYYYY easy... all you need to do is pop your strut assembly off and off to work you go. All you'd need are some extened bolts to account for the added spacers between the strut tower and the assembly strut mount.
... ok maybe I shouldn't say "easy", it'll take some time. It's no "oil change", but it's certainly no more difficult than an oil-change. I'm pretty sure all you'd need are just the basic tools (except for the wheel bearing locknut - although you could just use a screwdriver to get it off - supposedly it's torqued down just to seat the wheel bearing and then released to "0-ft-lbs")
-
I don't care what the key looks like or who makes it what I was trying to do is get a brand new cut key, not to have a copy made of a worn out used key.
does your "old" key in working condition right now? Will it unlock AND lock each and every key-cylinder (driver, passenger, hatch/window)?
If it does so without any problems like needing to wiggle the key or re-inserting or flipping the key... then I'd say just base the copy off of the worn-old key. If the worn-old key is not having any issues then the copy is supposedly guaranteed from the keysmith to work, so far as I'm experienced.
And correct me, do the 94's have RFID/chipping in them? if not, then you're almost in the clear as far as not having to pay too much to get this done.
I think keys+cut runs $3+$1 or so?
-
The procedure should be in the FSM. The general idea is to install the bearing, torque it tight (50 ft-lbs?), rotate the wheel a few times each way to work out any play, then loosen and tighten the locknut as usual (i.e. barely at all).
sorry, I was a bit ambiguous with my question.
My intention was not to know "how" to do it, but I wanted to know how 01silverpathy did it without the tool...
I know the wheel bearing needs to be seated via torquing the locknut, but was wondering if 01silverpathy had a trick to it.
-
where do you guys get this?
-
You dont even need this to service the wheel bearings.....id rather spend 15 bucks on beer
how do you torque it to seat the bearing?
-
and just to confirm... it's okay to change pads without changing a whole new rotor, right?
What did you do to your Pathfinder today?
in The Garage
Posted
Coolant drain and refill, part 1
- sent by the Nexus4 project