[92 bogging at start up]

"Fine" is relative. That stupid sensor has a nasty tendency to play games with you until it completely quits, when that happens it takes plugs and catalytic converters with it.

 

What it does is change resistance as the temperature varies, the computer interprets that as rich or lean and adjusts the air fuel mixture accordingly. As the sensor ages, it becomes less and less accurate with sometimes random spikes to either way lean or way rich. Way rich is usually bogging out.

ya, i guess if its a finicky pos, ill change it out, hope this fixes the problem. ill let you guys know.

[92 bogging at start up]

Did you check for engine trouble codes? The temperature sensor is probably less than $20, so if you suspect it, might want to just replace it, but could be something else...

i was thinking about that. theres no engine light on, I dont even know if theres a light in there,lol

as it is right now, there is no interior or floors in it, so i cant nbring it to the shop tell i weld new floors back in.

[92 bogging at start up]

A long shot, but what about the fuel filter?? Has it ever been changed?

 

B

ya, I changed the filter to. I started it and unpluged the temp sensor, and it stalled out, does this mean the sensor is fine??

[92 bogging at start up]

I would guess temp sensor. The ECU adjusts the fuel ammount based on temperature. When the engine is "cold" it tells the injectors to spit out a bit more fuel to warm it up faster. Also, a popping noise like a backfire through the intake is definitely related to the temp sensor. FYI it is the one with the yellow connector at the front of the engine. It could be the wires going to it too.

thanks alot for the help, I went out and checked it, the wires seame to be fine, started it unpluged the sensor to see if there was any differance, but couldnt tell.

what way could i check to see if it is the sensor?? or check

 

tyhanks again

[92 bogging at start up]

hello,

 

please help!!!

 

so I have a 92, auto,that seams to bogg when i start it up and drive away. step on the gas like normal, and it boggs, if i romp on it it bogs, but if I push on the peddle about half way,off, on, off, on, it starts to go, but will bogg after this to, just for mabe a minute. it seems to drive fine after. it is getting worse, kinda had some poping noise come from the front, i think through the intake,only sometimes, but always goes away after a minute.

Ive changed and cleaned, plugs,wires,fuel filter,tb cleaner,egr valve,injector cleaner,idle air valve, just sprayed it out, with tb cleaned, coil, computer from junk yard, altanator, mass air flow, spraied with tb cleaned. and the tb control, i took off, but didnt know how to clean, so replaced it with a good running motor, no change, with any of these things. lots of air released when gas cap is opened. while driving there is a gas smell once in a while???

not sure what other easy things to check, im out of ideas!! the battery was dead a few times in a week, so i changed the alt. but same problem, could the battery be almost shot?? Not holding a good charge??

what is a easier way to chech the injectors. without pulling the plugs??

 

well thanks for any help, it been going on for so long

[swaping 92 body for 95 body]

I think it will go as smooth as any body swap can. everything should be the same.

thanks, just wanted to make sure. and this doner pathy is mint, brand new tires, tranny cooler with temp gauge, new axles and hubs, and lots more, all for $400 Canadian!!!! well thanks again. will try to get pics of body lift and body swap.

[swaping 92 body for 95 body]

hello, looking at buying a second 95 pathfinder for a body swap, its in mint shape.My 92 body is shot, but frame still has black paint. the doner frame is shot, but body is mint. Now this is my question, will a 95 body bolt right up to a 92 pathfinder frame. both are auto, 4x4. also will be putting a body lift on at the same time, will i have any problems with that to.

 

thanks in advance

[battery and alternator problem]

this is kinda what i was thinking, when it sits there, the battery looses juice. Im not sure how old it is, but probley going to replace it soon.

for it running rough, all the other things are done.i fired it up for the first time of the day, for 2 min ish,then cleaned the idle air valve. put back togeather, drove around the street, it seemed to be better, but had alittle lag, or sputter. for the three weeks i drove it, since bought, it did the sputter, bog thing, but never stall. but 2 days ago, started up and test out my hubs, and it was barley moving, sputtering,boging, real bad, the worst yet.

no back fire from exhaust, but the intake had some cough sounds coming from it. but 3 or 4 min later completely fine. noi smoke from exhaust, just alittle moisture dripping from tailpipe. anyh ideas, thanks for your help

 

also the excessive air leaving the tank when opining gas cap, what could this affect, besides the tank expanding.

 

thanks again

so, it was the alternater, that was causing the sputtering, and running rough, we replaced it yesterday, now it runs perfect. we found this out by me dunking the truck up past my pass side seat in water, fried the computer. trouble shooted for six hours, coils, relays, and other @!*%. replaced computer, then truck would keep charge, everything else followed.

all good now.

[battery and alternator problem]

Generally with an alternator problem there will be three lights on the instrument cluster light up: battery, at temp and brake.

If your alternator is bad, the vehicle will run for awhile off the battery but then die.

 

If the battery is bad it will not charge fully or at all but will usually run until turned off, sitting will cause the battery to loose power as well.

 

 

As to it running bad, that I feel may be a seperate issue. Especially since this vehicle sits a lot?

How old is the battery?

this is kinda what i was thinking, when it sits there, the battery looses juice. Im not sure how old it is, but probley going to replace it soon.

for it running rough, all the other things are done.i fired it up for the first time of the day, for 2 min ish,then cleaned the idle air valve. put back togeather, drove around the street, it seemed to be better, but had alittle lag, or sputter. for the three weeks i drove it, since bought, it did the sputter, bog thing, but never stall. but 2 days ago, started up and test out my hubs, and it was barley moving, sputtering,boging, real bad, the worst yet.

no back fire from exhaust, but the intake had some cough sounds coming from it. but 3 or 4 min later completely fine. noi smoke from exhaust, just alittle moisture dripping from tailpipe. anyh ideas, thanks for your help

 

also the excessive air leaving the tank when opining gas cap, what could this affect, besides the tank expanding.

 

thanks again

[Changing auto tranny fluid?]

DANGER!!!!!! DANGER!!!!!! DANGER!!!!!!

 

I'm on my THIRD automatic transmission, and have finally figured out how to make 'em last (@ $3,200+ a pop all said and done, I better have!).

 

1st, I FLUSH the transmission every 15,000 miles. This doesn't use detergent, but extra tranny fluid. Almost half of the old fluid is left in the torque converter upon tranny fluid draining, so there is A LOT of old, used, dark (ie non-lubricating) fluid left after a drain.

 

I buy 12 quarts of Red Line High Temp ATF, and take it down to my Nissan dealer. He puts it in his tranny flusher at the END of the flush, and runs it ALL IN to fill the tranny AND torque converter with ATF.

 

The killer of WD21 auto trans is HEAT, and the breakdown of tranny fluid due to that heat. You should do two other pro-active things to combat the heat problem.

 

1) Install a large (20,000+ GVRW) transmission cooler in front of the radiator. I run one inline with the factory cooler that is built into the Nissan radiator.

 

2) DO NOT use overdrive if you are

a) driving at 35 mph or less anywhere,

driving at 40 mph or less on a hilly road,

c) towing ANYTHING, no matter how fast you are going (this keeps the torque converter locked, lowering heat tremendously).

 

Also, if you must replace your AT, buy a remanufactured transmission, because they are built to a much higher standard than a new or rebuilt unit. Remans are available at your dealer or good transmission shops.

 

STOP THE LIES!!! :-) The tranny fluid will be very dark after 15,000 miles...DO NOT wait for 30,000 miles like the manual says. When I bought my first extended warranty for the Pathfinder, part of the requirements for warranty satisfaction were oil changes at 3000 miles and auto trans fluid changes at 15,000 miles. Boy was I suprised at how dark the fluid was after just 15,000 miles.

 

Sorry for the long post, but this is a matter near and dear to my heart. I've got well over 120,000 miles on my current tranny (after going through the first two at around 60,000 miles each).

so if we drain the fulid and refill, do you change the filter also, silly question, but ive never changed the tranny fluid in any of the 3 pathfinders ive owned.

[hello to all, new guy]

hello, to all, just joined yesterday, seam to be a good place to find good information. i have a 92 xe auto, its my 3rd one, love them. i can fix most things my self, but some things you just need some opinions. thing ive done so far are just replacing wornout parts from this thing sitting for a year. no upgrades yet. had the lower control arme bushings replaced, double washers welded in mount for more suport, complete tune up, rad flush, all new tie rods, shocks,tranny cooler, not installed yet. plans to gut interior, fix all surface of the floors front to back. and then think about body lift, lift kit, and tires.

well, thanks for the help so far

[battery and alternator problem]

hello, i was wondering if a bad alternator not charging the battery would cause my 92 to run rough when first started up, tell couple minutes past. didnt start truck for 2 days or so, and battery was dead, then next day was dead again. i let it run for 15min the day before. once i drive, it fine, but if not charging properly, would this affect the computer and injectors.i did a complete tune up, throttle body control, egr valve, mass air flow, were all cleaned, and a injector cleaner through the tank. also there is a blockage in the fuel tank somewere, lots of air when gas cap opened, would this cause it to run rough when first started up. just trying to work all the bugs out.

any help would be great, thanks

[front axle noise]

As far as I'm aware there shouldn't be any play... and it is normal to have to back up to disengage the hubs. Stupid design, I switched to manual hubs...

the cause of the play in the outer shaft,would that be the bearings. and the clicking,from the frontt wheels,what would that be from. thanks for the help.

manual hubs are in the future

[front axle noise]

Hello, new guy here, had 3 pathfinders so far, and this is the first of this problem. when in 4x4, on hard gravel, i was given er up a hill, and i heard this grinding sound coming from front of the truck. like a drill chuck set to low torque. things i have done, pulled axle out, boots are fine, no play, auto hubs seam to be fine, re greased and put back togeather. befor i pulled the axle out, i just had the hub off, grabed the end of the axle spline,gave it a wiggle, with snap ring still on, there was some play in all directions. mabe 1/8 all around. is that ok??

also do i always have to back up to disengage the 4x4, i do it sometimes.

 

thanks for the help