[94 SE switching to 33's, questions]

Looks like I'll just try bending the bugger a bit. I'm guessing it was bent in a bit at some other point in the truck's life

[94 SE switching to 33's, questions]

Got my 31x10.5's installed, and my left front tire is rubbing the front of the fender at full lock to the right. It BARELY rubs, so should I just hammer it out, or is it likely my T-bars needing to be adjusted?

 

For clarification, full lock to the left, the right tire doesn't rub in the same spot.

[94 SE switching to 33's, questions]

Looks like goodyear doesn't make the duratracs in 33x10.5, so I had to go with a 31x10.5.

 

[94 SE switching to 33's, questions]

33x1050s will still rub at some point and time without a BL at least

 

I'm not planning on doing any crawling, so will the t-bars be enough for adjustment?

 

I went with goodyear duratracs, they had the highest snow rating possible for what I wanted.

[94 SE switching to 33's, questions]

sounds like more trouble than it's worth. I called the tire store and had them re-order 33x10.5's

 

I shouldn't need to fiddle with my suspension in that case, correct?

 

The point of the truck is a "do all" machine, not a wheeling rig. I just like being able to get myself in and out of anywhere I feel like I need to, while having civil road manners, a decent stereo, etc, so changing the body or cutting/hammering in the footwells is more than I want to do.

[94 SE switching to 33's, questions]

so any tips for preventing the rub? Where will it likely be rubbing?

[Loud knocking coming from engine]

old pathfinder lifter tick is just down to old, sticky lifters. BMW's have similar issues. If they tick, they're just not happy, you're low on oil, they're getting older and more sticky, or it's their time of the month, is all.

 

Mine always ticks loudly on a cold start for 4-5 seconds, and then just disappears. never been a problem.

[HELP! I tried to destroy my pathfinder...]

electric components cleaner is your friend. If possible, fill a swimming pool with the stuff and give your truck another up-to-the-windows dip.

[94 SE switching to 33's, questions]

I don't have the stock wheels, they're some american racing garbage, but as far as I know, the offset is the same and the wheel width is the same, and they're also 15's.

 

I'm currently running 235/75's and would like to go up to a 33, of which the tire people ordered a 33 12.50. I want to make sure that I'm getting a tire that will a.) be able to fit, and b.) what modifications I need to make in order to do so. I'm guessing the fender flares need to come off, but can it be done with the stock suspension and no body lift?

 

Picture of the truck for reference

 

[SE or XE?]

Se because I have sport suspension that STILL WORKS.

[new pathfinder owner - axle questions]

3 jaw puller got that tie rod end off nicely. And Dennis was a massive help as well. took us about twelve hours (bad things kept cropping up) and lots of beer.

 

Next up, timing belt!

 

Also, where can I get an idler arm brace?

[new pathfinder owner - axle questions]

I want to know where you found a rusted out pathfinder in Washington. I didn't think rusted cars existed here. The only place mine is even hinting at rust is from crappy batteries.

 

I'm pretty sure mine sat for so long it started rusting. There's some under the rear seats, some under the battery tray, and a lot forming everywhere else

[new pathfinder owner - axle questions]

The control arm should just separate. You may have to give it a few taps to break it free but it should come loose! You'll know when it does too, make sure to support the LCA so it doesn't fall down fast and scare you like it did to me the first time I did it.

 

You see the part of the knuckle where the threaded part goes through? Hit that a few times pretty hard with a sledge hammer, that got mine loose. If not you'll have to get a puller

 

A pickle for is used to separate tie rods/ball joints. It's the quick and dirty way of doing it. I use that method because its faster but only when I am replacing parts because it ruins the rubber grease boots.

 

Here is a pickle fork:

 

 

Here is a tie rod separator:

 

This is similar to mine but they all do the same job.

 

 

I'll likely go the spreader route. I need a new tool set up here (full shop down in arizona,) and autozone junk is cheap and works for me. Can't afford new tie rod ends right now.

 

God, I was hoping this thing would be as easy to work on as my 240sx's were. Nowhere close. Though that could be just because half the bolts I remove are literally snapping in half from corrosion.

 

I can't do the "taps" at night, since I'm working in the street and don't want to piss off my neighbors, lol. Will give it some love smacks tomorrow with a deadblow.

[new pathfinder owner - axle questions]

When you remove the tie rod you can do it 3 ways (that I know of at least). 1 is use a pickle fork but that will damage the boot on the tie rod and then you will need a new one. 2 you can get a tie rod removal tool for about 10 dollars or if your part store has a loan a tool program that works too. 3 and the way I used to do till I bought the tool, was to smack the knuckle where the tie rod is seated, this will usually pop it up. A mini sledge is good for this.

 

Yes you can remove the 4 bolts and separate the ball joint that way, be careful as they like to break and if they do it's new ball joint time, though it probably wouldn't hurt.

 

Also you will want to remove the shock absorber and the brake caliper as well. Wire it up out of the way to not damage the flex line.

 

I'm sure you know this but you must also remove the locking hub, and the snap ring that is exposed when you remove the hub. I would break the 6mm bolts on the hub free before jacking up the truck because it is easier. Also make SURE the allen key is seated all the way into the bolt as I have almost ruined a couple. I usually lightly tap the allen key in with a hammer.

 

HTH

 

 

Man, fast responses!

 

I got all 4 bolts out, but the arm isn't separating. does the ball joint just slide out? the part that pokes through the arm a bit.

 

Also, the castle nut is off, I cannot get that stupid threaded part out of the knuckle. can I just get a spreader and separate it? would that also work for the upper control arm?

 

shock bolt is free, caliper is completely detached. Doing the new calipers, rotors, pads, and axles all at once. timing belt and water pump next week.

 

I'm pretty sure in the next year or so I'm going to be replacing every bit of rubber suspension bushing.

 

And what is a pickle fork?

 

Silverton, you're only like 30 minutes away (greenlake) you should come help, heh. would have been nice to have a person switching between 2h and 4h so I could rotate the front driveshaft and get at those damn axle bolts.

[new pathfinder owner - axle questions]

'ello people, '94 se-v6 4wd owner here with basically no mods other than wheels, chunkier all terrain tires, and a bullbar. the goal is to make it into a perfect all-purpose truck able to tow, carry people, be comfortable, be reliable, and off road a bit.

 

But it's a rusty and crusty old bitch. 108k miles, a recently broken odometer, quite a bit of rust starting to form, and I doubt it's ever had a service outside of oil changes. It probably sat for five years. And I paid waaaaay too much for it. Go figure.

 

First things: brake pads and rotors. Low and behold, the calipers are seized in the front. So, remanufactured ones are going in. CV boots are well and truly 'sploded. new axles are in my living room. Brembo rotors and EBC pads front and rear.

 

pulled the battery, wire wheeled off all the rust and used rustoleum's rust converter. welded in a new point for the battery tie down.

 

I'm in the process of yanking the old axles. I got all the 12 point nuts off, but cannot figure out how the hell I'm going to get the knuckle off. Do I need a puller? I hate only being able to work on my truck in the middle of the night. Makes parts runs impossible.

 

What parts of the suspension need to come loose from the knuckle? and in which ways? do I need to take the top swingarm off by the balljoint, or can I remove the four bolts around the balljoint and separate it there?

 

Mostly, I'm just asking because I don't want to break anything thinking that it's just corroded, when in fact it's welded and weakened, lol.

 

please help, been at it for two hours and I'm dead stuck. And I have a whole other wheel to do this to >_<

 

I've tried following the DIY's, but when it says "Detach tie rod end" I have no idea HOW to do it without damaging something, and I don't have a puller until I can go to the store tomorrow.