94stickpathy
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Posts posted by 94stickpathy
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Ok I tried all kinds of blades that cost less than $15 and still no new windshield...
3 days ago I saw a rain-x lattitude for like 16 bucks and decieded what the hell, I'll try it. (I got the 18")
WOW! streak free wipe even with all the pitting in the glass. I only bought One cause I was ready to be disappointed but I'll be goin back for another now. Now I can get the bugs off the glass without making things worse.
that streak free cleaning only last for a little bit. got the same wipers, thought the same thing... now? they suck. all the time. i dont even use them.
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i have found out if the sensor for the rear glass isnt good or isnt being contacted good enough the wiper doesnt work. just a thought
i'll try that. i know my shocks on the glass are effed to all heckk. maybe thats why it doesnt work. didnt close enough. that would also explain the amount of water i have dripping back there.
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Well it seems that the pathy has developed a problem. The rear wiper doesnt work, but only sometimes. Most days, i turn the stalk, and it comes on immediately. However, sometimes, I turn the stalk and nothing happens. I can hear the click in the rear of the motor turning on but cant figure out why its not working. Any suggestions? I'm leery to pull the panel and start messing with the motor but I'm afraid i'm going to have to sometime soon.
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soooo basically i could get a regular ecu and plug and play it? cause i want the power!
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My 94 XE is a California Emissions equipped vehicle from the factory. I checked the parts numbers for the ECU and they came up different. Does anyone know what the difference is with mine? Does it rob me of power, idle, mpg, etc? Any help would be appreciated.
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It Could be worse,
I seen it with allot of CARS arround here lol. somone gets a new set of rims but can't afford new tires so they got a 235 wide tire on rim that requres a 275. and its low profile so the tire looks like this on the wheel \_/ instead of |_|. I don't know how the installers can sleep after doing that and I think its an accident waiting to happen becuase it looks like the bead just wants to slide inward and let all the air out.
i hate to admit thats how my 240sx looks. but its on purpose. they're JDM stretched. and cambered. and made for drifting.
but for anything other than a cambered and coiled sports car, not so much of a good idea.
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i want those fiberglass front fenders for the WD21. AC does not sell those. Not that exact style at least.
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i work for walmart and like the goodyear wrangler authority's they have pretty deep tread and actually look pretty good for 135 each.
let me know how you like those tires. i looked at them myself the other day and thought they just might be the ticket.
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i guess that i just will have to see how it works out once i get the lift on. i guess i'll go with the 4" BS rim.
if anyone else has any other thoughts, let me know.
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okay, i understand now. i thought that with the lift and the right tires, they wouldnt hit the fender anyways at flex. but that makes sense, that if they would hit, that i would have to cut the fenders. i thought that with the 3" BL and 3" SL that running 32s or 33s wouldnt hit the body. but that makes sense. thanks!
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okay now i'm really confused. why would i need to trim the fender by the firewall with larger tires?i thought that was only if i wanted to put larger tires than the sheet metal allowed with the given lift taken into effect. because the tires wont fit inside the fenders up front when its compressed anyways. so why would i need to trim them?
and the stress on steering does make sense.
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okay i know that 4" fits fine, but i honestly want to make them stick out the most i possibly can. so would 3.75" make it stick out more? thats what i'm confused about. and i know about the soft 8s only being 8" but thanks!
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checked out the tranny in detail today. the reason it was stuck down and wouldnt move was when the new clutch was installed the pedal wasnt attached right and had worked free. it "fixed" itself when the previous owner got it to sit just right. needless to say, i tightened it, and it works just fine.
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i was planning on 8 inch rims. i wouldnt run less with that much tread. i actually ran 9 inch rims with 12.5 tread width on my old chevy. and i like that they are cheap and look good. sounds like a plan. whats the deal with backspacing though? its got me confused. because i want to run 31s for now, then get a set of 32s. so obviously i'm getting the 15+x8. but what sort of backspacing is recommended by y'all?
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okay thanks! search isnt working for me tonight but i've heard that 3.75 is the backspacing i should order. if i understand right, that makes it stick out more than a 4 inch backspacing would. i got all the other specs i need, just curious about what backspacing. because i want to get some rims that i can run now on 31s and then put a set of 32s or 33s on when i get the mods done.
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any 15" 6 bolt 5.5" pattern with 3.5"-4.25" back spacing and 7"-10" wide
But for the Ideal fit, 3.75"-4" back spacing 7"-8" wide
having read this, does that assume a 31" tire? or is that in general for most tires up to 33" on our trucks? the reason i ask is that i would like to buy a rim that fits the 31" tire that i run now, and be able to run it when i upsize later.
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two things for you guys. one is why does it seem a lot of folks run the soft 8 rims? is there something special about them?
also, can anyone give me detailed info on the sound system? i was on crutchfield and they dont have all the info. i know what mine has, but i wanted more detail than just what size speakers i have crammed in mine (the previous owner "fit" wal mart speakers in there, and its obvious they arent the stock size). hopefully someone who knows their pathy a little better can give me some more info like what exact size is supposed to be in there.
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Does anyone think it would be worth using the 'glass ones at a "mold" or guideline and then just fabbing them out of sheet metal?
This is starting to sound like a lot of work.
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What is the real downside to the 4" system. Maybe I'm one of those guys who likes bigger and better but I want the biggest lift I can get. This is turning into less of a DD and more of a rig in my head.
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thats basically what i was thinking. i really do like the fronts, and may just have to find a way to fab the rears. i have a friend who owns a custom shop. maybe i can get him to help with the fab. i feel like if i basically copy the front as a mold and then mold them into the rears i could achieve the effect i'm looking for.
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I was on 4x4parts.com tonight and happened across the 4 inch HB fenders. they are fiberglass. has anyone tried these on a pathy? would they work? (in theory?)
that would leave us with non-modded rear fenders. has anyone done custom sheet metal or found a company that sells sheet metal rear fenders for a HB or pathy? my idea was to take those flares and fab them into the pathy sides to make in effect 4 inch sheet metal flares.
any suggestions or thoughts?
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That is all well and good but I should mention that the guy that I know, well his dad own the dealership. So I get a little bit above and beyond for pricing.
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I have a friend who works at a Nissan dealer. He has offered to help in the ordering and receiving of any true Nissan parts. If you want in, or need anything, let me know.
Yes, I know this will flood my inbox. I will do what I can to get parts when I can for people through him. No promises, but this helps for true Nissan parts. Oddly enough, I won't be using him mainly because I like aftermarket stuff for what I need. Either way, let me know.
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If it does, I know where to turn!
very little heat
in 90-95 WD21 Pathfinders
Posted
Would this fix that fact that my pathy simply does not warm up? My heat inside the cabin is good but the needle barely gets a 1/4 of the way up. When it idles, it actually goes back down to C.