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bigsyke

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Posts posted by bigsyke

    what is normal idle rpms?

    in 86.5-89 WD21 Pathfinders

    Posted · Edited by bigsyke

    Emissions limit is 1100.

     

     

    Correct Idle speed is 700 rpms in D found on the card under my hood. I cant even get anywhere close to that without the Park idle being around 2000rpms.

     

    Ive capped everything, and replaced almost all gaskets on the IM/TB, new timing and everything (o2's ect)

    I cant get my TPS sensor within spec while the idle in Drive is 700rpms. THe TPS is around 0.80v+ at that point. The distributor is all the way retarded (which is still advanced with the timing gun)

     

    I have to have my D idle at 300rpms just to keep things within spec, and the Park/N idle is still above 1k.

    smog removal?

    in 86.5-89 WD21 Pathfinders

    Posted

    The engine can push vapors out faster than being drawn out, UOA's have shown better TAN #'s with a vented crankcase on some vehicles, less chance for dirt being sucked into the crankcase if the valve cover gaskets or seals are torn aswell.

     

    I could go on for hours on how the PCV valve is only for emissions, and how the fuel vapors are flashed out of the crankcase when engine oil reaches normal 100c temp.

    Delete Primary O2?

    in The Garage

    Posted

    Has anybody with a VG30i completely disconnected their primary o2 sensor? I know some people have done this to stabilize FI with a fouled o2 sensor on an LS1. I have no PCV valve, running VTA so its running rich with the lack of the unmetered leak it seems.

     

     

    IIRC a cruise control vac line was unhooked when I got about 21 mpg, now with it connected its 8mpg.

    Type of ATF

    in 86.5-89 WD21 Pathfinders

    Posted

    I was wondering, ive never seen the recommended type of ATF for a 1987 VG30I 3spd auto pathfinder 4x4. I know the FSM for the VG30e says DexIII, I assume it would be the same?

     

    I want to use Valvoline Maxlife, which is DexIII compatible, but it contains friction modifiers. Could we use Merc6? or DexVI? I really want the added benifits of synthetic, but if we must absolutely use DexIII conventional then that will suffice.

     

    Also was it matic-d for these trannys? or is the 87 before they had Matic?

    High Idle in park

    in The Garage

    Posted

    So on my 1987 pathfinder Vg30i, ive tried adjusting all the idle controls, and to prevent misfiring/backfiring (seems like it hits a rev limiter per say), I have to keep the Parked Idle under 1k-rpms. When I put it in Drive, the RPM's drop to 400 or so. It seems all the configurations (aside from having the Park idle @ 1500), I can not get the Drive idle at 700-800 rpms.

     

    I have cleaned the TBI, and Maf. Im wondering if the TPS is incorrectly adjusted possibly? Another thing is when Decellerating, the engine seems to jerk and the idle tends to drop "about 300rpms" - once I hit around 1200rpms durring decelleration.

     

    Has anyone else experienced this issue? High idle in park, low idle in drive?

    Need some oil advice

    in The Garage

    Posted · Edited by bigsyke

    Seafoam is too harsh for inside the crankcase. I always use Marvel Mystery Oil. I run about 1/2qt for 1,500 miles. Positive results from blackstone labs. I Also dont like Wix, they have leaky ADBV, that give you dry starts. I always use the best, PureONE. Everyone Ive used has passed the anti-drainback valve test. Also I use Penzoil Platinum. Synthetic is always better....www.Bobistheoilguy.com. Better add packs, base stocks, VII's, oxidation resistance, fuel dilution resistance, cold flow, flash point, etc.

     

     

    Synthetic - 6k miles or 6months x 2 times a year (3.5qts)

    $16 for an oil change - Penzoil Platinum

    $32 a year ($30 if your using Mobil1)

     

    Dino - 3k/3mo's x 4 times a year

    $8.40 for an oil change - PYB or Shell

    $32 a year

     

     

    Or go big and get the best of the best.

     

    Amsoil - 25k miles or 1yr

    $34 for an oil change

    $34 a year

     

     

    Oh and not having to remove and clean your PCV valve, thats why I would always run synthetic.

     

    I use nothing but amsoil in my racecars.

     

    If you want to get detailed, I stimulate the additive package by adding a tablespoon amount of Lubro-Moly MoS2 (not for use in amsoil)

    Temp Issues

    in The Garage

    Posted

    Well, I think it's time I winterize my truck this year... I was waiting for the cold to come to show me a few things I thought may have been amiss, and it seems I'm right:

     

    1) My temp gauge NEVER goes more than a few mm off of C, even after running around for an hour. However, there are no warning lights, my heater works fine, and there is definitely coolant circulation to some degree as all the hoses heat up. How hard is it to replace a T-State following the instructions in, say, a Haynes manual? Is it accurate? Also, I saw a few people here mention thread grease or something - whazzat and is it needed? Another symptom is my MPG has dropped a bit, so maybe I'm in closed loop the entire time? I dunno *shrugs* Or wintermix fuel... lol.

     

    2) Should I drop down from 10w-30 to 5w-30 considering this winter is already getting very cold and snowy? She makes a racket when she first starts until oil fully circulates, and tonight she was slow to crank (she had been sitting for 48 hours in sub-30 temps).

     

    3) Coolant and Water mix - is the Haynes manual accurate for this? Also, how much does the old gal take? And I saw someone mention a second bolt to loosen, but I don't recall where. I'd assume fill the radiator first then the aux tank, or other way around? (never done this myself, and I don't trust my mechanic anymore after one of his little mistakes... long story)

     

    4) What temp range T-stat is ideal for central PA area? I saw some people mention using ones that open at a higher temp to help warm the truck up - good idea or no?

     

    Gratzi all!

     

    Funny you type this, because my vg30i had the same issue;

     

    I thought my temp gauge was busted or lazy. Wouldnt get above the 1st mark. I had heat, so I didnt think too much of it. However after removing the clutch fan for the winter, my temps shot up and hung in the middle. I then thought I didnt have a thermostat. So I tore it down to inspect it- sure enough there WAS a t-stat in there. However coolant I guess was leaking around the tstat, so I replaced it with the OEM nissan one, and used some permatex Gray, made 100% sure it was sealed and properly seated.

     

    Temps are perfect now.

     

    Im currently using 5w30 PP. But i have some amsoil signature series (ow30) I may drop in and see how it does in this -8* weather.

     

     

    Dont ever go below 50% coolant. I just had to fix my little brothers truck today because we didnt put enough glycol in the mix. You dont want to know what happens when the coolant freezes in your car, and you go for a drive.

     

    Just use the OEM one, dont get a higher temp, it wont make your engine warm up any faster.

    Timing Belt Keeps Shifting To The Right

    in The Garage

    Posted

    Hey, Im trying to get my new timing belt installed, and everything is lining up perfectly at TDC WHEN I initially install the belt. I set the tension (5:30) and then rotate the belt. It takes about 12 full rotations for the timing marks on the cams and crank to line back up. However The white lines on the belt are shifted about 1 tooth to the right (on all 3 marks). There is 40 teeth between the cams, and 43 between the drivers side cam and crank. Everything lines up, however the belt keeps shifting somehow. Tensions is tight, however ive taken the belt off and started over about 4 times so far, and its the same every time. Is this acceptable? I dont know any other way, unless im really setting the tension wrong.

    Vg30I Ignition Timing Off.

    in 86.5-89 WD21 Pathfinders

    Posted · Edited by bigsyke

    Well after many hours, I got the timing to 15. However at 15*, The idle is horrible. In park/Neutral the idle will fluctuate around 400-1.2k and in drive it will nearly stall. I couldnt even get it to run on 12*. I did have sparkplug wire #5 snap at the boot, I dont think it could be the cause of what im experiencing (unless VG30i's are different and the broken wire will make them hardly idle)

     

    Im curious to think, if the timing belt is off a tooth my worst fear would be these symtoms being the result of that. The engine ran flawlessly (low power) when the timing light showed 30*. (i dont know if the dizzy was ever removed before)

     

     

    Edit: Fixed- I think with the dizzy timing off soo much when I was trying to get it timed again, I blew off all of the vacuum caps.

    Now my engine smokes from the crankcase hose!!!! :headwall: Milky sludge under oil cap.

    Vg30I Ignition Timing Off.

    in 86.5-89 WD21 Pathfinders

    Posted

    I recently purchased a 1987 Pathy, vg30i. Ive been fixing a whole slew of things, and recently I went to check the timing.

     

    The VG30E FSM shows 0* the furthest mark on the crank pulley, and 30* the furthest right. I noticed my Distributor was rotated fully "counter-Clockwise". I checked the timing, and according to the Crank pulley, im running at 30+* btdc.

     

    Now is there a way I can just pull the dizzy up, rotate it say "counter clockwise" to give me room to get it back it 12*?

     

    I have no FSM, and am completely lost on how I can get this thing reset/retimed back to 12*.

     

    Does anybody have a method for the VG30I?

     

    Thanks.

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