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Nerfball6

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Posts posted by Nerfball6

  1. Thanks guys!

     

    Well, I found the problem and it was absolutely nothing. I had done some research and (like adamzan thought) believed it would be the steering stops. But it wasn't. All it turned out to be was that a section of plastic cowling underneath the front bumper and in front of the tire had a slightly out of place support rod, so the lip was hitting the tire slightly when it was turned all the way. It sounded pretty nasty but was nothing. I moved it back in place and because the tires are a bit oversized, trimmed off some of the plastic lip (which can't be seen) on each side to give them some more clearance, and all is good.

     

    I'm a happy camper! :)

  2. Well, I ended up buying it. And I appreciate everyone's help!!!

     

    Though I'm thrilled overall, a weird thing started happening this morning that kind of tarnishes the purchase ...

     

    When I test drove it, everything was great. I did figure 8's forward and reverse, drove it in all 4WD and transmission ranges, etc. I drove it home no problems. However this AM while backed out of my driveway, with the steering wheel turned all the way to the left, a grinding clunking sound came from (I believe) the pass side front . It was pretty loud. It only does it while backing and with the steering wheel turned all the way to the left.

     

    Anyone have any ideas what this could be? And is it just dumb luck that it happened right after I bought it? That seems hard to believe so I wonder if I just didn't turn the wheel all the way during my test drive and the seller was hoping I wouldn't. Not that that matters now I guess.

  3. What does KBB, Edmonds and the other site say is the going price?

     

    B

     

    KBB shows

     

    Excellent: $9,195

    Good: $8,595

    Fair: $7,845

     

    So if it's truly in excellent shape, I'll be getting it at the "good" price. So it seemed pretty good to me.

     

     

    Edit: Edmunds has ... Outstanding: $8,819 , Clean: $7,905

  4. I'd have to drive/inspect it, but it doesn't seem like a bad price considering everything else is in order...

     

    B

     

    That's good to know. I'll be driving it and inspecting it this evening. So ultimately it will hinge on that.

  5. That's kind of a bummer. Though I suppose if it get's better mileage that way it's a wash as far as the difference in fuel price goes.

     

    It almost is making me reconsider if I want it because of that though.

     

    It's a yellow 2002 SE Supercharged with 91,000 miles - with tow package and brush guard. 6-Disc Rockford Fosgate Stereo with steering wheel controls, Python Alarm with Remote Start, Brush Guard, Tow Package, Newer BFGoodrich All-Terrain T/A tires. In excellent condition.

     

    For $8,200

     

    Does that sound like a good deal?

  6. If you have access to a OBDII scanner, take it with you. An unscrupulous seller could clear the codes to turn of the CEL and then it comes back a little while after you've bought it. But that is with any car, not just an X.

     

    That's a great idea but I don't have access to one. Maybe I'll go buy one. Thanks!

  7. Hi all,

     

    This Friday I'm going to look at a 2002 Xterra SE. Pretty much loaded including tow package and brush Guard. Great shape from what I can tell in the photos. He is asking around $8,000 with 91,000 miles.

     

    Is there anything I should look for with this vehicle in particular that might be a problem area. Any parts that are prone to going bad or rusting, etc?

     

    Any guidance will be appreciated.

     

    Thanks in advance!

  8. Sounds like a classic case of the back door pin is loose or worn out. It is located inside the back lift door behind the finish panel, about dead center. Mine did the exact same thing yours did wihen I rolled the driver window down 1inch.

    Have seen this come up many times on here.

     

     

    I hadn't thought about it being the lift gate since it has it's own 'ajar' light. Interesting.

  9. search around.. there have been numerous threads about this issue.. it has a nice and simple fix too. :)

     

     

    I used the search feature before posting this thread but unfortunately could not find anything.

     

    Interestingly though, it has now stopped on it's own. Though I'm expecting it to start again.

  10. I just fixed mine by putting a small rectangle of masking tape (1/8" thick or so) and taped it to the drivers door where it connects with the sensor......

     

    I tried that with a wad of duct tape on both front doors to no avail. Maybe it's a different door.

     

    It's odd that rolling the window down an inch will stop it.

  11. Hi All,

     

    This is an odd one that just started.

     

    On my '94 pathfinder, my door ajar light keeps flickering (which also causes my dome light to flash). More so over bumps or at high speed.

     

    All doors are of course closed and the door jamb switches depressed (I also taped them down to test that)

     

    Now here is the odd part ... if I roll any one of my power windows down just a bit, the flashing/flickering stops.

     

    Any clues?

     

    Thanks in advance!!!

  12. I found the following thread by Mr. Pickles that shows you don't have to remove either the tie-rod or the caliper to get the shaft out. The thread mainly dealt with getting the 12pt bolts loose at the diff flange. This was helpful to me.

     

    Stuck Replacing CV Shaft

     

     

    Thanks!!

     

    So ... removing the shocks after taking off the wheels will give me the room I need. And no need to remove tie-rod or caliper. Great!

     

    Thanks again!

  13. Mine just started to fall off today. I was driving with the windows down and about a third of the pass side pleather suddenly dropped down loose off the headliner. Figures. I was just starting to make headway on the projects I already had slated to work on. ;)

  14. I'm going to be doing this soon. So am I correct to understand that I can ignore the instruction in the opening post to remove the disk brake caliper?

     

    Any other steps in the opening post that I should consider doing differently?

     

    Thanks!

  15. Side markers have 2 side screws and one under the front.

     

    Grill has 5 top clips, and 1 screw under each headlight, undo those and pull up and out.

     

    Be carefull on the bolts holding the headlight mount brackets (3) they can be rusty and snap off. Hit them with some PB Blaster a couple days in advance and again when you go to remove them.

     

    Thanks everyone for all your help. The thing that was hanging me up was the screw hidden underneath each of the side marker lights at the front. I didn't think I needed to touch those because they didn't seem to have anything to do with the grill. But that was it. after I loosened those the grill came right out.

     

    I did find the two screw holes that people were talking about being at the bottom between the bumper and the grill - however the screws were missing. I'm guessing at some point when it was worked on in the past. That's why I didn't see them. But after getting everything fixed and put back together, the grill seems to be holding in place tightly without them.

     

    I did put in a whole new headlight assembly that I got off of eBay. It's obviously an after market product but installed with no problems and seems to be working fine.

     

    Thanks again!!

  16. Thanks all!!

     

    I had to put it back together earlier, so I'll try again tomorrow or Wed. The only screws I noticed between the grill and the bumper seemed to be connected to the headlights and not the grill. Maybe I was wrong.

     

    Those vertical slots mentioned, are they on the bottom inside of the grill? I'm embarrassed that this seems tougher than it should be.

     

    I was also worried about what the water has done to the reflective nature of the lens, I'm thinking it may be a good idea to change the whole thing right away regardless. I noticed one new on eBay for about $40.00including shipping. I'm also thinking it might not be a bad idea to change both bulbs right away since I'll have the grill off.

  17. Hello,

     

    I searched through the forums (and web) but could not find an answer to this question.

     

    The passenger side headlamp of my 1994 XE has water in it and is very dim. It looks like heavy condensation. If I understand correctly this is generally an indication of a bad gasket or crack somewhere in the assembly -- and not just a matter of replacing the bulb.

     

    I though before ordering a whole new headlamp assembly, I'd try to pull the entire headlight assembly out so that I could inspect it and dry the water out -- but unfortunately I've gotten stuck at simply removing the grill. My Haynes manual does not cover my vehicle grill though it's supposed to. I had no problem finding and releasing the 5 clips along the top, and unscrewing the 2 screws on each marker light to release the short tabs on each top side of the grill. So the entire grill is free at the top. However something is holding it along the bottom that I am unable to see, and I am unable to lift the grill out and off the vehicle.

     

    I'm hoping someone can tell me how to remove the grill, and if I should expect any issues removing the headlamp assembly. And also if I should maybe just plan on replacing the entire headlight assembly?

     

    Thanks in advance!!

     

    - Nerf

  18. Hi,

     

    I just joined the forum and wanted to say HI!

     

    I'm the original proud owner of a 1994 XE which 'm afraid is getting near the end of it's life. I'm hoping to preserve it for a while yet so I found this forum in hopes of finding some great info that might help.

     

    Thanks!

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