nmullin
-
Posts
11 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Calendar
Posts posted by nmullin
-
-
Okay so im gona pull the remanufactured starter n if it tests bad then buy a new one off rock auto n if it tests good then it has to be that black n pibk small wire with the plug?? And that goes into main harness if it is that wire should i take apart harness n check it out?? Seems a bit intimidating to me.
Wish there was some 1in my area willing to help out for like 100$ or so. really gotta figure this Out. getting relocated soon for my job.....
-
1
-
-
Really appreciate the help. but have a few questions.
What wire do i use? The black n pink one that i already have goin to the plug on starter or do i need to buy some wire also? And can i brg atarter somewhere to get it checked out? And if its bad can i get a refund and buy a new bosch?
And are you in nh area by any chance? Lol sounds like u jnow what ur talkin about.
And there is also a relay in the interior fusr box that clicks when i turn key to on position. what is that 1 for? And also note mine has no inhibitor relay whereas yours does didnt know if that makes a difference.
-
Battery has tested fine and already tried the relay and both terminals have been replaced , not sure how to do the starter relay mod but i think thats what i need 2 do. is there any1 i can hire to do this or is any1 on here in the nh area? Would make it worth your while.
-
i have a 1993 nissan pathfinder with a no start issue.
have replaced the starter and no wont start at all, where as before with the old starter it always started when cool but if engine was hot and stop for gas or somethin it usually would not start for 30 mins or so. I got sick of it and got a new starter and now it wont start at all. The relay in the fuse box by driver left leg clicks and so does the starter but after repeated attempts the starter will stop trying and the relay will just click. I have replaced both terminals and checked power at the starter {big black n yellow wire}was at 12vs but did not check the purple n black one ( smaller one) cause not sure how to with plug. I also checked for so called inhibitor relay but apparently I dont have one as i have double n triple checked and verified with vin at nissan dealership....
really stuck one what to do and any help would be appreciated. i love my pathy and she only has 100k miles on her mint no rust from cali.... my last one went for 270k.. really dont wanna give up so if you do help id be happy to give a donation to anything that gets it started
Thank you
Nick from New Hampshire
-
fronts springs out of a v8 jeep grand cherokee. look at the coils there should be a yellow paper tag with a part number starting with FN. those are what ya want. You cut off the little pig tail end and then fit them in the rear of the pathy. Your 2 door should get 3 inches of rear suspension lift with those springs for 50$ bucks give or take. I live by you and I went to garys auto, its a jeep place.
for the front suspension you can just crank up your torsion bars 2-3 inches (probably need to reindex them) and get some low profile bump stops so you can keep some down travel once cranked up. cheapest way to do it and my truck doesn't ride bad at all.
low profile bumpstops from lordco were about 16 bucks for the pair.
there's a full 3 inch lift for about 60-75 bucks. can't really complain there, then just take it in and get an alignment (a full proper one where they shim the upper control arms for camber/caster) and you will be good to go.
for shocks I used (i think '85 or '87) ford bronco II shocks up front (they are a little longer than stock so they allow you to use up the low profile bump stops increased travel). for the rear I used 1997 ford f350 (single rear shock type), they are 3" longer than stock shocks so you can get some crazy flex in the rear with the jeep springs/ford f350 shocks. I believe I paid 35$ per shock and they let me max out my front and rear suspension travel.
50+16+(35x4)= 206$ plus tax for full 3 inch lift with new extended shocks all around. can't really complain! i been rockin mine for about a year now with no issues.
p.s. to make the f350 shocks fit the rear properly you need to change out the lower shock bushings to the pathfinder lower shock bushing. it's really easy or you can just press out the little metal sleeve in the middle and slide it over the lower shock tab and then plaster it with some 3m window weld (fast curing polyurethane) and make your own bushing out of it. your call.
rear lift flexing, still got more to go too, thats with jgc springs and ford f350 shocks.
could you link me to the exact shocks you bought and also have a question about tbars. my anchors for tbars are like all the way down out of the subframe and the adjuster bolt is almost fully unscrewed so wondering if i need new tbars as well when i get the the jeep springs n ford shocks
also wondering if the idler arm brace is a must cause u hadnt mentioned that
thank you
-
Would really like to meet up with some one that is a bit more comfortable with this than I am. Would be willing to pay whatever is requested but I need to do the fix where you put in a new relay so starter gets full power from battery, have seen a few write ups here and there but not sure I can tackle it on my own. Any advice or help greatly appreciated as I just got a new job and need the pathy for my daily( it's all I got). So if your in the southern Nh area or if you can snap a few pics so maybe I can try it myself id be happy to PayPal some money for the assistance
-
your throttle cable is out of place.
After it exits the firewall it normally makes a clockwise loop over the top of the manifold and passed though that clip on the top of the manifold along side the cruise cable.
it seems to run just fine, maybe its just like this because of the 3" BL?? idk...lol
-
Heres my new pathy I just bought, 2nd one ive owned its a 93 se with 98k miles and its from cali so rust free as of now and gonna try and keep it that way pay'd 2100 and already has 3 in bl and 31 in bf goodrich all terrains
this is what im thinkin for my 3" SL parts for my 93 pathfinder but looking for some input as stated i already have 3" bl.
https://www.4x4parts.com/nissan/pathfinder-heavy-duty-bilstein-front-shock-p-1922.html bilstein front shock x2 65$ ea
https://www.4x4parts.com/nissan/pathfinder-heavy-duty-bilstein-rear-shock-p-1923.html bilstein rear shock x2 65$ ea
would you recomend these uca's ??
https://www.4x4parts.com/nissan/pathfinder-upper-control-arms-p-142.html ac uca's 205$
or these ones
https://www.4x4parts.com/nissan/super-lift-front-suspension-lift-p-3014.html superlift uca's 275$
i was thinking superlift just cause the bad stuff ive heard of ac uca's
also was gonna get
https://www.4x4parts.com/nissan/idler-arm-brace-p-57.html idler arm brace 30$
https://www.4x4parts.com/nissan/pathfinder-ball-joint-spacers-p-766.html ball joint spacers 55$
and last but not least was gonna get jgc front springs to lift rear??50$ is this alright or a good idea?
let me know what you guys think
altogether comes to 750ish with superlift uca's which is a lil more then i wanted to spend but want a good reliable lift
-
whats the shipping companys name sir?
-
the problem is i want one thats not all rusted, so if you know of or have a vehicle like this in the area that would be great, please pm me if you do
lookin to spend like 2500 for a real clean pathfinder, willing to travel but not across country
my pathfinder wont start... 1993 4x4 automatic
in 90-95 WD21 Pathfinders
Posted
Im going to get it checked at autozone now but i put in the old one and it started right up so debatin puttin it in the nissan dealership but not sure what theyd do if anything. ill let you know how the starter tests out. but it clicks for sure just not sure if it was engaging. want to repaint suspension lift n 33s but gotta figure this small @!*% out first. also have a large clunk that happens in right front tire area believe its cv but not sure