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ebag17

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Posts posted by ebag17

  1. those are JC (jim connor racing) t-bars. they are(to my knowledge) the worlds only 2-stage t-bar. In other words its like a progressive spring, one bar is plush and soaks up small bumps like if your on a washboard and the other bar has a much higher rate for those bigger hits.

     

    Hmmm. Very cool. Thanks for the reply.

  2. its pretty straight forward...follow the T bar back from the LCA then follow it over and you will see a bolt...on the top side there is a jamb nut...loosen it up on each side put a back wrench on the other one and crank the bottom head 2-3 times...set the truck down (i forgot to mention its easier to adjust with the front end off the ground)I then move it around to get the true height after i set it down...i dont nkow any specific equation but IIRC 5-6 full turns is about 1/2". get an alignment afterwards or you'll wear out the outside edge of your tires if you currently have good camber

     

    heres a pic of the Xmember and the tbar bolts (note my tbars are unique to anyone elses truck so you wont see that middle connection on yours):

    DSCN3189.jpg

     

     

    What are the middle connections for?

     

    -G

  3. hey guys i got my new truck and it wont run right. it takes forever to start and will not go above 3500 rpms.

    i chande the distributer, cap, rotor, wires, and mass air flow meter. any ideas? also the coil keeps sparking if the motor is off but the key is on the on position and my trucks rpm gauge will go up to 4000 rpm if the truck is off and i hit the gas pedal with the key on the on position.

     

     

    When i unplugged my MAF sensor it wouldn't let me go above 3'000 rpm. I think if it's unplugged it will run in like a default mode or something. It ran like crap. But, that was just an idea that popped into my head and it's kinda late.

  4. For the rear axle? Yes, a simple spacer block would work but why have the bump stops at all, they just limit flex...

     

    B

     

    Alright thanks that's what i was hoping for. In the instructions i came across there was a big warning about "causing irreversible damage to suspension components" But then i didn't think they would be totally even necessary. and when i went to take them off the heads of the bolts just broke off.... sooo. no bump stops it is.

     

    Lift was finished this morning!

     

    But if i did make blocks for it i wouldn't make the bump stop extensions 4" because that's the size of the lift would i?

  5. I found a trail master lift at a junkyard which has really almost given me more problems than it's worth. But i finally got everything off and it's almost complete. But the car was not equipped with the "bumpstop brackets T86AB4" So I'm assuming it just drops the factory bump stop down? Does anyone with this lift know how far it drops it down and could i just make my own pretty easily? Thanks

  6. considering Trailmaster only made 2 suspension lifts for the Nissans (pickup or pathfinder) than that would have to be the one, I have a copy of the instructions if anyone would like a copy.

     

     

    I could really use a copy if you don't mind. Is there somewhere i can download it?

  7. Is this the same trail master lift as in the link? It's the only one i know of that lifts the back this way. It's just all these bolts seem to be super rusted together. do you think it's even worth trying to get off or should i keep looking? Actually i just decided. i think i'm just going to cut everything off and then worry worry about getting the bolts off... would that be the best way to go about it? Although i think i'm just going to take every thing thas been painted orange. but then where are those four brackets that are in the link in the middle of the image?

     

     

    http://www.shopatron.com/products/productdetail/part_number=NP43SSV/706.0

     

    1

    imagejpeg_2_3pappy.jpg

     

    2

    imagejpeg_2_23.jpg

     

    Sorry for the small images

  8. Agreed, anything less than 14-15 mpg or roughly 5-6km/liter normal (highway+city) driving and there is something that needs attention. I have gotten 8-9km/liter on trips in my first Pathy.

     

    B

    After lift and 33's i'm getting like 220 miles per tank. And that's like driving on the highway at around 65. is that about what your getting?

  9. My main question which i can't seem to get a value for. Is how much lift is achieved in the front when cranking the t bars? I saw that Calmini makes shocks for front in rear made for suspensions with 3 inches of lift? If i did those and the lift springs in the back with cranked bars. Would that work? Mainly i want to know if front and back would look level. And would it be better to get upgraded tb's. I worked all day and probably haven't thought this out correctly so tell me if I'm wrong or point me into the direction of some better ideas. Thanks.

     

    -G

  10. Thanks for the suggestions. I won't be able to work on it until Monday. There is a what seems to be a split or what is about to be a split in the intake boot. there is a little bit of back firing but right now it's just running straight pipes. On the plugs it's certainly not oily but just carbon residue. I've had a problem with bad gas before in another car and the power loss was random rather that all the time. I also try to always fill up with shell gas( which i've never heard of a problem with) and it's been awhile since i've used anything else. I'm leaning towards thinking it has to do with the temp sensor. I also went out and found Haynes mannual and it suggested the ignition coil. I friend said i could test this by un-plugging it and fastning it to where it would arc to the engine bloc when you crank the engine? He said a good ignition coil should be able to arc 1-2 inches with a blue spark to as where a bad one will have a yellow park? Has anyone done this?

     

    Oh! On the topic of gas. About a week ago i was trying to figure out just how many miles i can go on a tank because my gauge is way off. So i ran it empty and just had 5 gal. with me. I heard some people to say to fill up even with just a 1/4 tank left to keep from sucking up residues that may settle in the gas tank. Could it of sucked something up by running it empty? Could this effect the spark plugs and the gas millage? Thanks for all your help.

  11. Well i've already done that about 2,000 miles ago and when i pulled those plugs they were pink which is a sign of a good spark? So this has all happened recently i guess i could go ahead and try changing them again. I think it has to do with the mixture. My temp gauge recently stopped working so could my car just be thinking that it's really really cold all the time and causing my poor gas millage. But then again i don't have any problems with over heating... I hate not knowing what's wrong!!!

  12. So far i loved my pathfinder without any serious problems so far but just recently it's started to act up. I mean i'm at 230,000 miles so i guess i've just kinda been waiting for something to go wrong. But just withen this week i've noticed a huge lack of power. Were talking pedal to the floor to just make it up hills around the neighborhood. It sounds like a cylinder isn't firing ( sounds kinda like a lawn mower). I pulled 2 of the plugs and they were covered in black. The timing seems correct but i guess i'll check it again with my dad. It's also way worse in cold weather and i'm averaging about 6 miles per gallon.... no bueno.... So what i'm having trouble diagnosing is what's causing all these things or whether or not it's a mixture of problems that have just ll decided to go bad at once.

     

    -Lack of power

    -Black residue on spark plugs

    -Poor gas millage

    -Worst in cold weather

     

    Sorry i'm typing this on my phone if you have any questions i can answer them. I was just looking for some advice or maybe if anyone has had a similar situation. Thanks in advance.

  13. Haha. Well I worked all summer and finally got enough money to buy my Pathy. You know when you get a new car and your driving and looking at all the new buttons and just messing with stuff when you should be paying attention to the road? It was one of those situations but, worse. I noticed the clock wasn't right. For some reason I reached through the steering wheel to adjust it. It turns out you can't turn the wheel when your arm is through it. I almost broke my own arm trying to slam the wheel over to avoid running off the road. Not one of my proudest moments. The factory brush guard actually probably saved my car. I was able to drive away and my car still runs fine... Just without a front end. Lol. I get so mad at myself when ever i think about this.. What a stupid mistake. Although i think i can get ahold of a CalminiPre-runner front bumper for a Nissan Frontier rather cheap so with alot of cutting and thinking while sitting in front of my car i think it's going to work out for the better. I'll post pics if it works out.

  14. I know it's a color option. But I'm pretty sure safari green is a darker green..... i dunno i have to park my car really far away while at school and the weather is not to friendly lately. i'll just pack some supplies and begin my trek! lol. (Whats up with all this rain) Go get the vin and find the color code that way i guess. Thanks for your input.

  15. If i trim my rear fenders will will there be a gap between the metal on the outside and that on the inside? I guess what i'm trying to say are the pinch welds on that 1/2'' lip that's folded around. I was going to trim them along the line of the factory fender flares. Does any of this make sense or does someone have pictures of there rear fenders they have trimmed. Thanks in advance.

     

    -G

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