94svt50

I got as far as you did and came to the same realization. I just put it all back together and since It hardly seeps a bit of coolant Im just going to let it go for know.

Thanks for the reply. I changed the u-joints and one was certainly bad grease was long gone from that joint. Upon test driving it the vibe seemed to have improved some but, it was still there. Going back to tire shop and have one of the techs test drive, they said they will swap on another set of duratracs if they can determine which ones are causing the vibration.

Crawled under the pathfinder today to check the u-joints and sure enough one joint on front shaft is really bad and one joint on the rear shaft is just developing some slop. So I guess its time to replace all 4. Any particular brand u-joint recommended? Im thinking it should be a pretty easy job cant be as bad as the double cardan joint with centering ball on the front shaft of the discovery. Im hoping this will solve vibration.

Some good ideas with 200k miles bound to be some wear on joints. I did have the hub apart putting on new rotors, just kind of guessed on the bearing torque, Did not have a socket that size or a torque wrench that went that low, I think its only like 20inch lbs. Need to get the right tools and double check it. Any one know what kind of socket would fit that bearing nut?

I Finished installing OME hd springs in front and medium duty in back along with kyb struts and then had a local chain install new 245/75/16 duratracs mounted balanced and front end aligned last week. Upon leaving I immediately had a vibration from around 45 to 55mph in the steering wheel. Took it back and they assured me tires where fine and that these aggressive treads just rode rougher and I just needed to deal with it . I went home and rotated the tires front to back and upon driving it the vibration felt like it had moved to the back of the car. Now convinced of the incompetence of the balancer I took it to another store with a road force machine and had them balanced again. This resulted in no real improvement, after a week of driving it like this and becoming more concerned I might have a bad tire I took it back. They rechecked the balance and said that everything is balancing out fine and within the range of normal and there seemed to be no defect in the tire. So, my question for advice is am I just being over sensitive and just need to accept these tires as rougher? or is something else at fault? Could it be the increase u-joint angles on 200k mile ujoints from the lift? The new springs really jacked it up from the severely sagged originals. Just depressing for the pathfinder to look so awesome yet drive worse then before. Thanks for your time. Jon.

The gasket I need is part # 11062 <img src="http://ocnissanirvineparts.com/nissanImages/R50/210B%2001.jpg" border="0" alt=""> Coolant was changed about a year ago. I assume if I can access the water valve then I should also be able to access this gasket through removing intake manifolds.

I have a coolant leak that is coming from the gasket were some kind of coolant crossover pipe ties into back of passenger side head. Its not more then a slow seep and it looks about impossible to get to. I have heard that you have to drop the trans to reach it but, to me it looks like you could just pull the upper intake and worst case pull lower and valve cover to reach it. Any one have any experience with this leak or have a coolant schematic diagram they could post up? Thanks for any info on this 2002 v6 w/176k miles

Cleared the codes and the light stayed off for a 100 miles but, has now come back on with the same codes. Checking prices and the after market brand sensors range from $150+ for the front and around $300 for the back. Oem is around $900 for the back. Ridiculous. Going to do some detailed inspection of the components to rule out other causes for the codes.

nope, the tires have been on there for the last 3 years, I rotated them last year but, thats been it. Air pressure is equalized and the tires still have decent tread left. I cleared the codes and so far have driven it about 80 miles with no codes returning.

It needs to be done, i have everything changed except brake and powersteering fluid. What are the odds that this many sensors would be bad? So far the connections seem good havent yet tried ohming them yet.

Thanks for the input. The brake fluid does need to be changed and is on the list to do, its original 163k miles on it. But, Im not sure I follow how the dirty fluid would throw codes for an open circuit.

The codes are in. They are 12,25,31 and 21. Which makes no sense because code 12 is for no malfunction. The manual say 25 is front left sensor open circuit, 31 is right rear open circuit, and 21 is front right open circuit. Could all these sensors really go bad at once? The light has been on for a couple months so I guess they could just be piling up. Any thought on how to address this? Could the 12 be that there is no current codes and these others are stored in the memory from some freak incident? I might try clearing the codes and driving around and see which ones come back and in what order. Thanks.

Thanks! great resource manual do you have the link to the rest of the FSM? I will get the codes this afternoon and post back.

I have a 2002 pathfinder and the ABS light recently came on. I was reading in the Haynes manual that the codes can be read by counting the number of times the ABS light flashes when you ground terminal #9 on the ecu connector under the dash. This procedure is supposed to work on 2002 and older pathfinders but, when I tried it I just blew the fuse for the ecu. What am I doing wrong here?

Thanks, you have been a big help!