[automatic climate control fail]

Well, this was IT! The straw that finally broke the camel's back, or at least the one that made me trade-in the Pathy. I decided that I was tired of the limited aftermarket support and rediculous prices for replacement parts and the frequency of failure... and the lack of a bed...

 

I now have a '07 Frontier SE 4x4 Crew Cab Long Bed with the 6spd.

 

I'll still be lurking around the forum so I'll "see" you around.

 

[Highest Milage/Oldest VQ]

59k, but I just got rid of it. No issues with the VQ, the tranny, suspension and electrics.... that's another story. I did replace it with an '07 Frontier, the VQ40 which is a VQ35 stroked and with slightly lower compression.

 

The VQ is a fine motor. As is the VG. The VG does have it's short comings though, such as: a timing belt and no balls... you have to force feed it to make any real power. As far as overall strength and reliability nothing can beat the old L series straight 6's... like the L24 in my '72 Z which has 293,000 miles on the clock and believe me I still beat the piss out of it when I get a chance.

[VQ's]

Alpine Developments is getting just under 240hp on an otherwise stock VG33 at the wheels at 5200ft in CO from their S/C kit. Easy, but not cheap.

240hp. The starting point for the VQ35 NA.

[VQ's]

You could not give me a VQ35.  I have been working on Nissan's since 93 and the VQ series will not take hardly any abuse comared to the VG.  The tolerances are so tight and the fact that everything is microfinished means if the sludge builds up just the least you are scoring journals.  The PCV system is weak and blow by is common even on newer engines.

Of course I had to beat the hell out of a VG33 w/ 5spd just to get mediocre performance ... OTOH the VQ35 has plenty of power mated to an AT.

 

As far as longevity I've seen many VQ30 Maximas with 200,000+ miles... As always, regular maintenance is the key. But I'll take an old L series 6 anyday.

[automatic climate control fail]

Damn it! I just developed this same problem today! Mine is the SE, but I'm sure it's the same... Anyone know where to get one cheaper or how to repair it? Heck... where is it? Is it the actual control unit/interface?

[Another Exhaust Question...]

Didn't have to deal with any bolts/nuts, had the shop do it all. The front resonators were removed a few months earlier and the flanges were rusted through. The first shop did such a crappy job that I had this shop replace their work too which is why I had all the pipe after the rear o2's replaced.

 

 

Hey 90seven... PB Blaster will work better than ol' WD.

 

Nate

[Another Exhaust Question...]

Hey Everbody, just wanted to give you all an update on my exhaust experience...

 

I had a local shop remove everything after the o2 sensors and weld in two 2.25" pipes back to a Flowmaster 50 Series SUV (P/N 524553) which is located in the OEM position. They then welded on a 2.75" pipe on the outlet of the muffler and exited it at the original position. I also had them utilize all the original exhaust hanger locations too. I wanted it to look similar to stock.

 

I had to use the local Midas because there are no custom shops around here and most other exhaust places didn't want to touch it. Luckily they have two guys that work there who specialize in their custom work. Unluckily NY is stupid expensive and double so living here in the middle of nowhere.

 

Flowmaster: ~$100 from Summit.

Pipe, bending, welding, hangers, labor, and highway robery: ~$300

 

It is a bit louder in the cabin than I had hoped for, but it sounds way cool outside :cool2:

 

Also not real happy about the kink bending but in a town where even the Burger King shut down, good luck finding a shop that can do mandrel.

 

Go here to listen to it:

 

http://vids.myspace.com/index.cfm?fuseacti...eoid=1951347443

 

And here are some pics:

 

 

 

 

All Comments, Questions and Ridicule is welcomed!

[What else can I do to my R-50]

Sweet rig... I definetlly suggest a custom exhaust... you gotta let the girl breath... they are very choked up from the factory. I love the all black, I wish I would've gotten a black one but I went silver... oh well. Who knows, a better flowing exhaust might help your mileage too.

[bought an r50!]

Rather have him by a Pathy than a frontier

A Pathy still isn't a truck. I miss my Fronty something fierce! Frame or not, station wagons still don't have a bed and therefore can never be trucks. My current contemplation is whether to pick up Frontier and toss in a VQ or just drop the dough for a Titan. So you guys (and gal) can all shun me now. :X

 

93xe- Sounds like you got a good deal. Good looking R50 buddy.

 

And for navygz19...

 

Fronty's just do it better...

[mileage...what do you guys get?]

I had an '03 Frontier 4x4 VG33 with the 4.64's and 31x10.5 Yokohama's and the 5spd... got 14-15 in town and 16-17 on the hwy... even with the bed loaded down and pulling my Z.

 

My Pathy with the VQ gets 16.5 in town and I've seen as high as 19.5 at 75-80 on the hwy. Right now with all the variables winter throws in, I'm averaging 14.

 

On the other hand my Z with the original L24 dual carbs and nearly 300,000 miles get a solid 26 on the hwy!

[new pics]

Wow, that sucks. Didn't the VG33 get an extra 10hp in '03? They had 170 before and in '03 they jumped to 180hp and like 210 or 201 ft. lbs. I guess on the upside it's an instant upgrade for you :cool2:

[occasional start-up 'hiccup']

Alex,

If you turn the key just to ON, you should hear the pump. It'll be easier to hear with the drivers door still open. The sound you hear is just the pump priming and only last a second or two. When mine acted up I heard nothing... just a couple of relays clicking into their positions.

 

Our problems do sound a bit different and may not be related at all, but one can only hope. I'm hoping mine was just a fluke and never comes back ... on the other hand if it does happen again, I'll be forced to look into it.

 

Don't know if you've checked yet, but how do your battery cables look? Both ends of each cable. You know, at the battery terminals, the starter, the alternator... you never know it could be very simple.

 

Keep us updated.

[occasional start-up 'hiccup']

Alex-

 

I share a problem similar to yours. 3 days ago I drove mine to work and parked it, at the time it was about 8* F. About an hour later I went to start it and it would just turn over and not fire up. I noticed that I did not hear the fuel pump. After a plethora of foul language I pulled and checked all the fuses associated with the Fuel and Ignition System and gave all the associated relays a light tap. She then fired up just fine. Have had any problems since after a couple dozen starts or so, but I fear it happening again and not starting at all. I'll be following this thread.

 

Any input out there?

 

-Nate

[clunking from front end]

Sway bar end links. That's what it was for me on my '02 @ 33,000 miles. Just get under there and pry up on the sway bar at the link... any movement at the top or bottom and it's toast. Common enough that my dealer here in a very small town in the middle of nowhere stocks them. If you find one bad, just replace them both. I thought I narrowed it down to the right side and after replacing I started hearing the same noise from the left. I got 'em for like $10 to $15 a piece at the dealer. Good Luck.

[Mass email check-in thread]

Roger that.

[AC lift pics]

Look's awesome!!! You may have just inspired me to keep my Pathy around for a while longer!

 

FWIW, A note about the gearing...

 

For 2002, the only gear ratio available was 4.363:1. That was for the 2wd or 4wd, A/T or M/T, SE or LE (no XE in '02).

[New shocks/springs and struts No lift kits.]

So I came across this thread while searching for spring and shock/strut combos and clicking the link to the A/C lowering springs I saw the picture of the lowered pathy. Took me a second to realise that it was indeed lowered... cause mine sits the same!!! Do you think my springs are worn? Although the thing that pisses me off a bit is that the truck is a little more than 4 years old with 53,000 miles and was owned by a woman (ie: no off-road, trailering, or heavy loads) for the first 3 years and the springs are toast?!?! What gives? I guess I just expect more out of a vehicle that originally costed $30,000+, regardless of whether it's a station wagon/grocery getter/mom-mobile.

[On the Way up to See the Family today.......]

Any special Service I need to get now?

Congrats on your milestone! It's always nice to have a camera on hand.

 

I would replace all fluids if you haven't done so recently... front and rear diffs, tranny/transfer case, coolant, brake... Fuel filter and so on.

 

Here's one from my '72 Datsun 240Z, If it was a 6 digit odo you could see the 2 in front... which is now 293,000+. Notice the trip odo, she's evil sssh

[InCabin Air Filter Installation Instructions]

So was this optional equipment on my Pathfinder or was it standard?

I can verify that on the 2002 Pathy it was NOT standard.

 

For all trims...

VPC Installed Accessory Option Code F94: In-Cabin Microfilter MSRP $59

 

Safe to say that it was optional for 2002 and earlier, but I can't verify the later models. Some part stores stock generic brands too.

[Another Exhaust Question...]

when i do mine im going to get a magnaflow.

Any particular reason, or just personal preference?

[Another Exhaust Question...]

Now im sure alot of people think im crazy but im not even positive that they are on the vg33 but do a little research and you will see that they exist. Alot of the tuners i used to hang around refered to them as secondaries and im not positive that is the correct name.

4x4LE - No, you're not crazy. What you are referring to is the variable flow intake manifold (plenum). The VQ35 does indeed have it, on the other hand the VG33 in my '03 Frontier did not. I am not sure when it comes into play though. Secondaries, as mentioned earlier, is a term used for the back two barrels on a 4bbl carb.

 

So here is my update...

 

I had them cut out both front resonators and weld in some pipe. All was fine and dandy. No noticeable exhaust volume increase :sniff: but also no resonating or droaning in the cabin

 

Then a couple weeks later the exhaust got louder and while under acceleration I started getting some excessive cabin noise and a banging noise when traveling over bumps Further inspection reveals that NOW the exhaust flange where the tail pipe bolts to the muffler has rusted through! I hate NY :furious: So now I am looking into having the entire exhaust removed and a custom cat-back fabricated/installed because Nissan wants almost $300 for the tail pipe assy. What's the deal with NO aftermarket support on these things??? I see R50's everywhere...

 

Any recommendations on mufflers? I'm thinking Flowmaster 50 Series SUV.

 

Nate

[New sound coming from my engine....]

... the knocking I'm thinking i s a CV joint, or some brushing somewhere, its only when I go over really uneven pavement or turn abruptly...

I had a similar situation and mine turned out to be the front swaybar links... they were relatively inexpensive and even my dealer way out here in the middle of BFE had them in stock and said it was quite common. The way to find out is to push up on the swaybar ends and look for movement in the joints... if either end of the link moves then the link is bad.

[Another Exhaust Question...]

Back home in South Carolina I wouldn't have to pay as much, but nothing is cheap here in NY. The distance I would have to drive to find someone to do it cheaper wouldn't make it worth the money in gas, so I'm hoping to get the guy down to around $75... it'll definetly be worth the money to save me the trips to the parts store for adapters and pipe and having to do it outside in the cold.

 

Not sure what R50's have the same exhaust setup (I figure the 3.5's are all the same) but mine starting at the manifolds is...

O2 sensor each side, Cat each side, O2 sensor each side, Resonator each side, 2 pipes into muffler, 1 pipe out, Post muffler, then exits out the rear.

 

I don't anticipate any issues removing them, but I also figure Nissan put them there for a reason so I was looking for any negative someone may have had previously.

 

Thanks,

Nate

[Another Exhaust Question...]

Hello all.

 

My 2002 Pathy has sprung an exhaust leak from the driverside front resonator, which is apparently a model wide issue since Nissan offers a "repair-kit". I have no intentions of dropping $75 for this band-aid and $500 for a new one is rediculous. A local exhaust shop quoted me $90 to remove both front resonators and weld in new pipe in their place.

 

My questions for y'all are...

 

Has anyone removed their front resonators?

 

If so, have you experienced any side-effects, such as droning in the cabin at any rpm range? I only ask because I've had this issue before in other vehicles, like my Z.

 

I am not looking into any aftermarket exhaust sytems as I intend on trading into a Titan in the next 12 months or so.

 

Thanks,

Nate

[Howdy]

Hey Slick.

 

Yup, Ground is good. I'm an Electronics Tech for the CG and I am quite cofident of this. Now, it could have also been the trailer I was towing, a crappy well used U haul. When the brake light fuse pops you also lose the ability to shift from park (w/o using the unlock port) this is how I found out the fuse was blown. In order to get back home I did the ultimate no-no and stepped up one size fuse and this worked with out any damage (luckily). Still the 10 (or 15amp?) fuse is being forced to run the trucks brake lights including the 3rd brake lights and the trailers... sounds a bit underrated to me.

 

Thanks

-Nate