twotirefryer
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Posts posted by twotirefryer
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WTF? how come your UCA's look so different than the ones that i posted links too? is that just a general pic they have on the calmini website. if so, thats really misleading....but anyways, i will be getting the RC UCA's.
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Yes, make sure that you put some hairline fractures in the bolt so it breaks in the near future at the most in-opportune time...
works for me, never had a bolt break or shear. i use a little common sense and there are things that NEED to be dead on, but a 12mm grade 8 bolt? i guess different strokes for different folks, that just seem overly anal. and BTW, a grade 8 bolt will never have a hairline fracture, it breaks in two or strips thread. :secret:
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with my 90, i removed the elbow before the air box that goes to the fender, got a k&n filter, got my maf bored about 225 over, and got a new muffler(but kept stock piping, as i can't afford a full exhaust yet), power is definately up, its not as sluggish anymore... getting on the highway isn't too much of an arduous task anymore...
you bored your maf over....
and you compensated your fuel tune how?
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if your rig has failsafe and won't rev about 2400, your maf is dead. any other maf issues warrants at least a good cleaning with *MAF CLEANER*, not brake clean, compressed air or anything else. i have brought back countless mafs from the dead doing that.
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actually, JWT can make you one. or jason calumn. but just like most everything else from the factory that isn't boosted, it's not really gonna do much unless you have a reason for it, like turbo or stupidcharger.
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hah. intake on a vg30i? thats almost laughable considering the bottle neck is at the throttle body. if you are trying to get more air into the engine, yard the MAF out of the throttle body, get yourself a safc and go to town on porting the throttle body. you can run a ka24e maf from a 240sx or a sr20de maf, but then your building an intake. as far as buying one, forgetaboutit.
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timing
in The Garage
don't know if the vg30e has a knock sensor, but my vg30i doesn't, you DO NOT want to knock or you can plan on replacing headgaskets, valves...something will go eventually. more timing=more gas mileage, more power. lower timing=you can pee in the tank and it will run. my advice, raise the timing one degree at a time until it pings. then back off one degree. i'm pretty sure 12 deg is where it's supposed to be at.
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LOL yeah, tough country=typo, my bad.
so the bushings suckin the calmini parts? is this a widespread problem?
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so i priced out two of em
calmini-$350/pr plus ship, beefy as hell. for 3" lift. do the factory upper balljoints fit in these? http://www.purenissan.com/control_arms.htm
superlift-$314/pr shipped, P/N# 6065 no link available
tough country???? fill in the blanks here if you can
the superlift look to be ok, not nearly as beefy as the calmini. for the extra few bucks, i'm REALLY leaning towards the latter.
any complains on either control arms?
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actually, running the longer UCA(rough country or calmini) at stock ride height will give you positive camber. the whole idea of having a longer UCA is so you don't have to stack 5 million miles of shims to get the correct camber in addition to not destroying your CV axles.
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larch is in hockinson area. bout 20 miles out of vancouver, no far at all. good trails, although i have heard that off road stuff is illegal there. honestly though, it's not like i'm destroying anything, just sticking to the trails and there are tons of wheelers any given weekend.
i'm not to worried about getting a ticket. -
ok, well then good info...
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PM me or call me 360-936-7205
vancouver, washington.
nothing really crazy, just a good time to warm up for the 17th. goddamn, i'm itchin bad. too much school and not enough mud.
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i got my 91 galant vr4(awd) bout 4 years ago and before i started sinking ass loads of money into it I went to larch mountian(local wheelin spot) and let her rip on the muddy gravely roads. it was cool but i wanted some real action, like trails. i went for a ride in my buddies ford truck and had the worst time of my life. got stuck 3 times in like 2 hours on some really wimpy trails. then it blew a headgasket. went a couple other times in some big jacked up rigs(never the driver, just the drinker) and it was ok. it was always something with the domestics. well the last time i went before i bought my pathfinder, i was in my buddies 95 hardbody truck. talk about wippin major ass. the thing was unstoppable with basic upgrades. i bought a pathfinder, did the same mods and laugh every time i see some big ass jacked up ford stuck. 4lo, 2nd gear, right thru the same mud pit. hehe. not that the pathfinder is the greatest rig or anything, but these things do crazy @!*% from the factory. oh yeah, i only paid $1500 bucks for it. that set off a boom and i can gaurantee you guys this thing will have a SAS within 2 years.
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got an 89 gearbox for $20. this thread is good info. we need a FAQ section
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karma is a bitch, especially for bull@!*% like that. whoever did it will get they're own.
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whats the problem? the inside wheel is supposed to turn more than the outside. toe out on turn. that mixed with some caster will do exactly that. if you wanna see an extreme case, go check out the benz at full lock....
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in the galant, i just gas it. 25 lbs of boost and methanol pull away fast from pretty much anything. never been tailgated much at all in the pathfinder, but if someone was being real stupid(not like the pathfinder has enough power to piss anyone off), i'd straight slam the brakes on. i don't care. there isn't one reason to ride that close to another car. NO reason.
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heh, i bought my pathfinder for snowboarding. then i went wheeling. i used to drag race my galant vr4 lots, but now it's been converted back to street sweeper status and the pathfinder is my new toy. wheeling beats the @!*% outta drag racing any day of the week. plus it's cheaper by FAR
to put this back on topic, the rack is strong. i put one of my buddies up there while i was doing some 4 wheel drive drifting in the snow. it held up fine as he grabbed it going over the side. stupid i know, but he wanted to do it. got it on video, hilarious.
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^ aren't you gonna put the basket in?
it doesn't fit, not enough depth. thats ok, because now that the spare tire is not in the back, i have room for the crap that you'd put in the basket. plus even with a tire on top, my snowboards still fit.
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right on then. easiest swap in the world. FWIW guys, if your going to get cap screws to replace the studs, i got the 45mm long ones and were just a touch too long, 40mm length is what you need. i believe the correct dimension are 8x1.50x40mm, you need 12
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hook onto a edge of the sheared off bolt with a small screwdriver and try to turn it out. you might be suprised.
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here is the rack. it would be really easy to install wiring in the tubes. i plan on putting some kind of light on each corner
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so yeah, i just put mine on(bought used) and they didn't come with instructions nor can i find any. my questions involves the snap ring that goes on the axle after the main body of the hub is put on. is there no washer that goes on before the snap ring goes on the axle?
clunk
in The Garage
Posted
i've got money on radius arm bushings.