octanevortex
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Posts posted by octanevortex
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I am new to the forum but I just bought a 90 pathfinder for almost nothing because of the tranny problems. The guy said it didn't have reverse but it is much more than that. I used to work at a dealer and personally rebuilt about 20 of these trannys and the only thing that I would see was no reverse and this was always caused by a blown seal on the low and reverse brake. This tranny is nothing like that at all. It seems to always start in second and go to third but that is all. There is no neutral, it just acts like drive, and park also loads up. If it is rolling and you put it into reverse it just stops dead. You can't even roll it backward even when the truck is shut off. You have to put the transfercase in neutral just to roll it backward. Has anyone seen this. I am going to pull it but I would like to see if anyone has seen this before.
It sounds to me like the torque converter is locked, acting much like a clutch that you can't disengage. Had it happen to me on a G.M. product once.
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The resistor still has its colour bands showing, you should be able to buy a cheap replacement at any electronics store, just take the old one with you.
you are not alone! I purchased a carquest starter for my '88 and guess what? A 470 ohm inline resistor! Not sure of it's purpose however>
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Too bad you are not closer to our shop, i would take a look at the trans and see if its something that still can be salvaged without a full tear down. Funny thing is that i just finished fixing a trans in a 88 300zx that was having similar problems.
I believe Yozsi is right... I just tore down a RE4R01A and if the front brake band is loose, it will cause symptoms like you mentioned. There is an adjustment, but only go about 1/2 turn at a time if you are tightening. Adjustment located at driver side top of trans, right behind bellhousing.
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First thanks everyone for all help. This is my first 4x4 , I have had hot rods and sport compacts, but always wanted something that could go in bad weather and not care if it gets a dent. I bought a 87 pathfinder 3.0 and thanks to this site and everyone have got it almost where I want her. Having a strange thing going on that don't know what it is and have looked all over the site. When I drove it one morning I took off and it sounds like the autolock huds try to engage, by this I mean it makes a loud sound from the front and the first time I stopped and it jecked a couple of times I looked and saw nothing got back in and everything normal. took off nothing this morning it did it again. only does it when it's 15 degrees and the first time it was 10. Is it the autolock hubs? Also where I live it's a long dirt road to my house, so after the first time on a rainy day I put in 4 low gave her hell and everything worked perfect. Thanks again
Your not alone....On cold mornings I have experienced a loud whirring sound followed by a loud, releasing bang! sound. From my perspective, it does sound like the hubs are locking up and all hells' breakin' loose, but no damage! I've greased my hubs a couple o' times so I don't think it's neglect. However, this phenomena only happens maybe once every few months for me.
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Your a/b (anti-backfire) valve is malfunctioning. Feels like a jerking sensation on deceleration. Leans out mixture on decel if working right. Check to see if it holds vac. I believe that's your problem.
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I have had the same (or at least a similar) problem. If there is a little positive pressure on the exhaust, you get a sort of vapor lock and the engine will stall out. You will not be able to restart until the pressures equalize again. This pressure differential usually occurs when you accelerate hard and then let off the gas quickly. The exhaust backs up into the engine and kills it.
Check out your catalytic converter and/or muffler. There may be some kind of blockage or something.
I thought the A/B valve (anti backfire) valve prevented equalization issues. Or is the egr valve not closing immediately?
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More detail on the chev alt swap....I am referring to the standard "old" gm alt. that is probably laying in your garage somewhere, one bat term, and two spade connectors. On my original post, I mentioned rotating the alt case. This is, of course, to make the wiring easier and safe from the exhaust. So, as you look down at the G.M. alt (with all 4 case bolts removed), you would want to rotate the front half of the case (the one with the fan and pulley) counterclockwise until you reach the next set of available holes. You don't need to remove the fan/pulley/nut to do this, but you may have to gently pry the 2 halves apart. Which in turn, will make the brushes drop. So just make sure to use a paperclip/wire to hold the brush/spring assy. up until you've rotated, secured, and tightened the case bolts. I used the stock Nissan belt adj. mechanism, however, I think I drilled out the little adj. block slightly so the fact . chev alt. bolt (that comes with every reman/new alt) would fit. I've been running this $17 reman for 6 months now on my '88 VG 30, and haven't had as much as one squeaky belt or dead battery! This is one way you can get back at overpriced import parts and have a reliable cheap alt that won't take a lifetime to install!! You gotta try this one!!
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I may not be able to get you a good photo, but I will tell you the color codes of the nissan wires that goes to G.M. alt terminals #1 and #2
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For the past few months, my alt. and my a/t temp light have been glowing on my '88. Voltage checks reveal below 12 volts @ idle.....alt. r/r time I guess! Local parts houses get around $100 or so exchange for these remans. So I decided to get a chev v-8 alt. and throw it on instead (pt#7126). This is a real common one that puts out around 75+ amps, so I figured that was enough. I've got power everything, stereo, what not, so I didn't want something weak. I owned a '94 Altima that I did this on sucessfully, but the pathfinder is almost like a factory replacement! Now, the install: no new brackets, I believe you have to swap out one bolt( it's been a little while since I did this, mind you). You must rotate the alt, i.e; remove the 4 alt case bolts and turn the alt to the next set of holes. DO NOT forget to hold the brushes up when rotating the case. Anyway, bat term goes to bat term,ground to the case,of course. And there are 2 terminals on the chev alt marked 1 and 2 . The Nissan alt harness also uses two connectors. I wish I took notes on this one, everybody, as to which wire goes where. But I remember it wasn't hard to figure out (do a delco remy alt terminal i.d. search) that's what I did. No need to swap out the pulley or fan or nothin! I got this alt on sale with a lifetime warranty for $17. And seriously, it took just a little over an hour to do.
not enough voltage
in The Garage
Posted
I had a weird overnight drain thing happen on my '88. Seems the computer had a small short in it. It took a while to figure it out. I did notice that the small spark you would normally get from reconnecting the batt term was more distinct, and I could hear a relay click also (key off). To add to the confusion, when this relay would energize, the hot wire in the air flow meter would heat up, draining the battery also. So, if your alt.ends up charging, battery checks out, etc... and your still getting an overnight discharge, try unplugging the ecu one night and see if your battery lives through the night. Got a pick n pull ecu with matching numbers , swapped it out, problem solved. There were no visible signs of fried electronics on my old ecu. Hope that helps.