mishikwest

Anyone install an aftermarket block heater /water heater on a Pathy? 94 v6. I don't live in the artic, but it sure would be nice for the morning commute.

The reverse lights on my 94' V6 are very intermittent...sometimes they even flash like crazy when going in reverese. It's behaving like a cruddy/out of adjustment switch or contacts. Anyone know off the top of their head where the revese light switch is? Manual tranny. thx

I put a new head unit in my 94'. and just rewired the whole dam truck, to get all 8 speakers working properly. The oem wires are very confusing, espec. dealing with the oem ams. I yanked out both amps (if I recall, both of mine were in the right rear panel)., pulled the headliner out and ran all the new wires in the ceiling. Much easier from my opinion.

well, just had the best kind of repair. Took the alty off, had it tested (twice), and it check out ok. Put it back on, and now all lights are off. ECU reads no error codes, so I guess I'm good for now. I almost wish the alty tested bad, then I'd know what the problem actually was. I suspect there was a lousy ground maybe, and by dissassembly/reassembly it fixed it? thx for all the input!

thanks 88'... that was the kind of wisdom I was looking for. :secret: Will probably tear into it this weekend.

the first thing I noticed was that my ecu was not described. Thus I asked the previous question.

Thanks for the input fellas. My ecu just has a screw portal on the back side which is labeled "idle adjust". There is a label on that screw that also says "diagnostics". How does one turn the screw to get to diagnostics, and NOT affect the idel adjustment? Or is it just a matter of turning it back to where it was after running diags.

This morning both my battery light and e brake light came on simultaneaously, and are still on. Is that some cryptic diagnostic code for something? Or do I need to pull my alternator and start the round of usual tests. oh, 94' v6-xe manual tranny, ac

Hate to state the obvious, is your fob good? Those things sure take a beating. Picked up a new one at the dealer for 40$

Just did the tranny service on my 94' pathy xe, and though I'd add my 2 cents worth of tips. I tried just taking the shortcut and just pulling the carpet up from the passenger side, however could'nt nearly get at all the fasterners for the shift boot/cover...not to mention trying to get it back together properly. Anyhow, here's what I found to make the job go easier: I removed both front seats, both sides of the carpet/door sill strips, both lower plastic kick plates, and the foward 2 bolts of the center console. Pulled the carpet up from both sides, and over the top of the shifter...get it the hell out of the way. Only takes about 15 min to pull all that stuff out of the way, and better than tearing/swearing with the thing for multiple hrs. Also a good excuse to do a complete vacuum job oh, there are 2 snap rings at the top of the shifter there, it's the upper-most one. hth

I would stick my key in and turn to unlock, and in rapid fire they would bounce between lock/unlock/lock/unlock/lock/unlock. all that with just a single turn of the key. And try and unlock all door by doing the "double rotation", and forget about it. Things would go all sorts of haywire. Once in a while they would lock on their own too...like if I slammed the door or something.

thx for the input fellas, I was reading some old links and people were talking about 3.75" back spacing on 15 x 8's, that's where I got that #. As my truck sits right now, it's got the stock 15 x 6 ? chromies, which needless to say sit waaay inboard. Truck looks and feels like it needs a tad wider paw-print, I don't want to go overboard though. That's kinda why I was thinking 15 x 7, either way it sounds like 4" backspacing would be a bit more modest.

Planning on 31", and wondering anyone's thoughts/preferences on 7 or 8" width rims. Most likely will go with chepo US wheel type 84's. Also, 3.75" back spacing seem like a common number for 8" wheels. ? thx for any input.

Symptom: Upon inserting a key in the lock and turning it, the power locks would "bounce" a couple of time, and not necessarily stop on an unlocked cycle. Also they would occasionally lock/unlock on their own accord. What worked for me: -Remove door panel -Remove the small power-lock motor and actuator. It's a tan colored box about the size of a digital camera in the lower corner of the door. Two 12mm ? bolts mount it to the inner sheet metal. Also have to unhook the 2 wiring plugs and linkages. -Put the thing on your bench and remove the six tiny screws that hold the halves together, and split the case. ***VERY IMPORTANT STEP*** Use a scribe or similar devise to mark the exact position of all the gears inside. If I remember correctly, there are 3. - Remove the large plastic gear, and the drive parts underneath. You can’t take it apart any further without grinding down some cold-formed rivets. Hose the whole thing out with a generous amount of electrical contact cleaner. Move the actuator a few times and really clean out the sliding copper contacts. Spray more. If a little spray is good, alot can only be better. -alcohol- -Give the gears a little bit of fresh grease. -Reassemble, paying attention to your marks denoting the orientation of the gears and actuators. Reinstall, and hopefully your locks will behave normally. Again, this is from my experience, but just remember you read it on the internet :D

Hope I'm not beating a dead horse here; tried searching and did'nt find any comparisons. Seems like folks are generally happy with mt90 in the manually tranny's. At 12$ a quart it's a little spendy however. NAPA has sta-lube brand regular gl-4 oil for about 15$ a gallon.... I don't want to be penny-wise-pound-foolish, but is mt90 worth it? any experiences with either are appreciated.