mishikwest
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Posts posted by mishikwest
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Man what a nightmare getting the thing slid back...I didnt really know where the center of gravity / balance point on the thing to keep it in-line with the motor and not binding on the splines. Neutral point is right at the skid plate on the tc...afraid of putting it back in tonite
Also, I put in a new rear main seal and the kit (fel-pro) and it came with a variety of fiber gaskets, none of which seem to line up with anything really. Should I just goop the recommend portion of the tranny mating surface and call it good? That's not really an oil proof seal either, just to keep water out?
Also the rubber on that big metal gasket thing is pretty dry and sketchy.
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Thanks!
Got everything clear now but just cannot slide the monster back. It's on two jacks and a bottle jack under the oil pan. Is there just a perfect sweet spot of jack pressure to allow the thing to slide back?
may just go get a tranny jack tomorrow
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Ok I've read every thread with "transmission" in the title, but still have questions about pulling manual 4wd tranny to do clutch.
Already got driveshafts and exhaust off..
What else exactly has to come out? It looks like just the middle cross-member, the one supporting only the tranny.
Why do the torsion springs have to come out? I must be missing something obvious.
Starter?
thx in advance.
oh, yes I have the manual downloaded from here.
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The factory service manual is what prompted me look for something a bit better. There are so many great step by step how-to's around the forum I was hoping for something along those lines. My mom could have done a timing belt with one of the great threads here!
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Recommendations on one over the other? Time for a clutch and don't see any comprehensive how to's on the forum.
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When I turn right, just the slightest bit and beyond, both the abs and brake light will go on. They will stay on until i turn left just a bit and re balance the weigth. Any ideas?
95 xe-v6 manual tranny.
edit: Sorry I just did a better search and found a few threads. my bad.
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Thanks! That makes sense, and what I was hoping for. It's on deck for tomorrow morning.
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After reading previous topics and checking the schematics on the rear axle seals, it looks like there are two. One it looks like is pressed into the end of the case, and one at the bottom of the wheel bearing stack. It looks like to replace the 1rst one you just yank out the rear axle with brake attached and replace seal. Pretty quick? The other one it seems you disassemble the wheel bearing and brakes to get at it. Pretty long? Do I have it right?
I'm trying to figure if I can just do a quick replace on the axle seal in a few hours, or if I should undo the whole bearing/brake and do that seal too. (I've got axle fluid all over my brakes). In other words should I plan for half a Saturday and a 15$ seal, or a whole weekend with seal, new bearings, brakes, $$, etc. I don't mind doing the whole deal, just short on time right now and wouldn't mind rear brakes again.
Thanks for any advise, you guys are great.
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Howdy,
Some clueless gal backed into my 94'. Any recommended suppliers for stock front bumper and ancillary brackets? There are quite a few online places. Better would be anyone in the Portland Oregon area.
thx
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figured it out. only did the one larger blk/ylw wire into that blure relay however.
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Yeah I've searched and read all the topics but still have a question:
the black and yellow wire from the ignition feeds the relay two times. when the black and yellow is cut at the ignition switch, it must be spliced into the relay at BOTH black and yellow connections at the interlock, or inhibitor relay behind the battery. there is a heavy black and yellow wire that goes into one connector, and a smaller gauge black and yellow at the other connector. this relay is on the fender well just behind the battery and is blue, and bigger, two connectors, than the others located in the same area and under the cover on the fender.or this:
I had been getting the intermitten "click" and no start from my 95'. I performed the jumper wire mod from the ignition switch (black wire with yellow stripe) to the wire coming out on the backside of the battery (black wire/pink stripe) that heads to the starter??
I've got a 95' 5-speed. All I'm after is where to run the wire between. The yellow black on ignition to the ?????.
There's a "check relay" in the relay box by the battery. There's also a blue relay by the battery which has a yellow black going into it. ??
thx
p.s. already have a new starter on and battery
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Acutally now looking at it further it looks like it's some play in my steering box....havn't looked into the adjustability of it yet. How much is acceptable play?
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Thanks. Yeah the centerlink moves all over the place with up and down force applied to the tire. The tie rod ends move a bit also. I'll take a look at the wheel bearings too.
Ok, where is the recommended place to purchase all these components?
thx again!
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94' pathy xe. Noticed a bit of a clunk when turning. Jacked up front end and ball-joints seem ok.....little rock when grabbing wheel and trying to tilt top to bottom. However when trying to rock fore and aft, like a steering motion, I get a fair amount of play. Looks like the looseness is everywhere, from tie rod ends and other steering linkage joints. What should I start replacing first? Oh, truck has 150k on the od.
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Spent 1/2 hr searching the forum....can't seem to find the instructions on how-to program a new remote for a wd-21.
thx.
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Ok, I just spent the last 2 hrs. searching this forum and gave up...hate to beat the dead horse, sorry. But,
anyone remember a link to another fellows site with really good pictures of a removal and re-indexing of torsion bars on a pathy (wd-21)?
thx
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And if all else fails, try the square type EZ Break with the expectation it will fail and the head will need to be pulled. I won't try the screw type EZ Break unless I've already scheduled an appointment with the EDM guy...
aint that the truth brother! ez Breaks are about as sketchy as it gets, in my book at least.
m2c
oh, living on the east coast for a number of years one becomes quite skillful at removing fasteners the hard ways. 50% of the nuts and bolts on (older) east coast trucks have to be cut off. Oh what a joy to now live in an area with no road salt!
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Thx for the good info. Much appreciated.
Gettin' on my creaper now.
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94' xe with 135,000k. Just replaced the stock rubber and wheels with 31x11.5's. Micky T Baja Claws. 11.5 is a little too wide, but the price was rite. ANYHOW, front seems now to be sitting a little low. Slight rubbing when turning at higher speeds. No problem crawling though. (chopped all sorts of plastic already too) I was thinking of looking into the t-bars. Either adjusting my OEM's or replacing with the Calmini's or sway-aways. How does one figure some sort of baseline setting for the stock torsion bars? When are they worn out? What type of ride can I expect from aftermarkets, and can I get a little lift (1" or less) from them?
oh, I've already read most of the other posts on t-bars but still have these questions.
thx
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It's on the highway starting at about 50mph. Seems very similar to a wheel out of balance, however it's the same with two different sets of wheels and tires.
thx
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There is another thread going on now about vibration and balance, but mine is alittle different.
For a few months I've had a wierd vibration. Comes through the seat, and the shift lever console. Steering wheel too. Also you can see the hood vibrate back and forth. Starts around 50mph.
My tires (crummy 235's ! ) where shot, and I figured I had a rear out of balance.
Just got new rubber and wheels. 31x 10.5 Mickey Thompson M/T. 15 x 8's black steelies with 3.75 offest. Thought my vibration issues would be gone with my old dry rotted rubber, but the exact same VIBRATION is still there! Any ideas? Alignment issue?
oh, tires kick serious a$$, and look tough.
thx
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I'd say start combing the local U-pull it's... You never know what you'll find.
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I've heard that the dipstick units can burn the crap out of the oil. Not sure if it's true or not, but could make some sense I suppose. Heating the water makes more sense to me- there is alot more of it in the engine passages and radiator, thus getting more "stuff" hot.
Where did you find those units? I'm gonna check napa tomorrow.
new clutch, and now intermittent starting issues
in 90-95 WD21 Pathfinders
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Did a clutch job myself, new flywheel too. Now I have an intermittent starting problem. Starts fine in the morning, but then will frequently not start when hot. Hear the click of the solenoid throwing. If I rock the thing in gear and turn the ignition it will fire. (Whacking the starter alone with a hammer doesn't do anything.) Trying to determine if there is something weird with the new flywheel teeth or my starter is going bad. Seems like a strange coincidence though. any ideas?