Spolar93
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Posts posted by Spolar93
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thanks! finally getting it dialed in after the initial sas and im lovin how it performs. especially with the iroks
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37x14.00x14 Bias IROKs
hahaha sorry i had too. for what its worth, they are my new favorite tires, i wish they made em in a smaller size than 36" for when i was ifs. 33x13.50 ltbs would be my choice for a smaller size though, they hook up nice!
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im in pullman for school but wanna run naches or manashtash
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Nice Flex. There's a "Sexy Flexy" thread you should post on if you haven't already.
What's that yellow hose on the middle pick? Brake line?
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v439/gsp...999255967_0.jpg
I thought it was a coil spring at first glance.
its my diff breather tube that runs up by the airbox. its just a cut to fit cioled shop air hose
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got about 34" of air under the front tire. no binding in the sliders either, so im gonna finish welding and gusseting everything in. measured out for the front drive shaft and picked up some square tube, 1310 u-joint, and a u-bolt kit.
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I'm wheeling all the time. I'm actually going out this weekend.. again.
think you might be able to come down with jared when hes done to tillamook state forest this summer?
and nissyota im diggin your design haha. looks like the only difference is i cut out a 2"x2" square out of the inner ears so itd wrap around the crossmember for more weld area. if i remember right the holes were out 3" from the bottom of the tab? funny, even both have the mili wrapped front eye!
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How far do your front spring eyes hang out?
?? what do you mean?
Interesting design. Can't invert that.the springs will still go negative, just since the spring is getting shorter horizontly the slider will move forward
spolar, I know this mod.. you need to place your sliders at an angle corrosponding with the natural arc of the spring..Works will, but the way you have them set, it will bind up a bit.
ive seen them used sucessful either way. this version allows the pinion to stay at a flatter angle through the cycling of the suspension, as oppossed to a shackle which will force the pinion to move on greater angle. although i was contemplating angling them for increased droop, i figured id have more than enough travel this way.
wheelin around seattle this summer jeremy?
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WOW what a long couple days. finally got springs from the junk yard and bastarded my pack up. the main spring and mil wrap spring with the bottom 4 waggys i had. that and the slider leveled out the pre-runner rake, gave me a better pinion angle and caster, got my wheelbase to 108-9", and most of all pretty much killed my nasty body roll!!!!! im figuring the stability of the system is helping big time. they got pretty flexy on a small wall, and tomorrow ill be makin some spring clamps for the back, as well as welding in a couple reinforment plates on the inner side. next up to finish the front are gonna be a niiiiiiiice pair of bilsteins, maybe even the remote resievour ones (7100s?) :rr:
greased up the rails with white lithium grease, and between the leaf springs, graphite molygrease. im thinkin the uhmw with break in on the rails in a week or so
i plan on flexin it out on the volvo loader at work (i want those portals!!!) in the next few days to measure front d shaft and new shock lengths
im likin my new coat of blue paint too, white just didnt work out like i thought it would.
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why wouldnt it? you ever seen another modified car rollin down the street? weird.....
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ive machined for 4 years and received scholarshipsfor it, but i dont have my bridgeport anymore so fab-by-pieces is whats up. shouldnt feel loose at all, in fact compared to my current shackle set up, its should add stability. now .005 is a bit small for an offroad enviroment that could foul something up with grit and mud
im using .75" UHMW for the sliders
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about 6 months ago i got the idea from these to replace the shackle end of my front springs: http://www.speedwaymotors.com/p/2151,157_L...pring%20sliders
but they were too short and light duty for my needs so i came up with my design that used all 1/4" plate and used a longer slot, with it being ~12" in total length.
after searching around the forums i came across this thread which helped immensely in refining my design: http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=652426
heres my fab work as of now, almost done with the other one as well.
what do you guys think of concept and creation?
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nope wont be back on the westside til end of june. sign me up for the summer
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@!*% i wanna go haha. this summer well reunite jared. tsf again? havent been back there since my sas. seattle area is cool too
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mmmmmmmmm....zips.
casey if you can come down here, we got moscow mtn thats got killer winter wheelin.
93, im sure youll see me drivin around, i live on the back corner of greek row, address is 810 opal st.
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one stick controls rwd: hi, neutral, and low. the other stick controls fwd: hi, neutral, low. so if both case have a 2:1 low range, then both cases in low give 4:1.
wish i could go wheelin with you this summer, just got 4wd finally. too bad im leavin for pullman this sunday...
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casey, and what might that be?!
almac, i dont know yet, havent added up receipts. im guessing around 1500 so far
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hahaha the offer came too late! im taken. but for sure, ill be out there in a week, we gotta find some trails around that area.
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what do you need? its just a 5'1" piece of 2x4x.125 with the ends cut up. then i used .25" plate to connect it to the frame with 3 bolts per side. welded some triangular gussets from the bumper to the frame, and welded the catch for the latch to the bumper for extra strength with the newly added weight
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if you have a welder, i can come up and do that for you in a day. dont really have time to make anymore at the moment, just cause im leaving for pullman next sunday.
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You have got yourself a real off road monster there.
Looks like the old girl is toeing in too much. Correct that and it should turn properly.
How does it feel into corners with the negative caster angles? Are you able to adjust them?
yeah shes doin alright. figured out my draglink was too long, so i shortened it, and no more steering problems. toe was less than 1/16" when i set it, hasnt changed since. i have 3* of positive caster, and when i move the shackle mount up 2" into the frame i should have all the caster ill need! looks like im buying steel for sliders, since the next time after this week ill have access to a welder will be this winter. stupid school!
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pretty much done. after chris and i calculated out the difference between 4.88 front gears, and 4.65 rear gears, its turned out to be less than 5% which we figured would be fine for off road only. so tuesday ill hack my transmission crossmember, and weld up my square driveshaft. untill then, bumpers are painted, tire carrier is fitted up for the spare, and its breaking in nice. just need to wled up some sliders (2x3x.188) and replace my rear brakeline thats pretty tight.
what do you guys think? seems like people are 50/50 about the white, but i like it. besides whites a good primer for a repaint hahaha. safety orange anyone?
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well duffy machine is still working on making the 6 bolt adapter to go behind the tx-10. im just gonna run the stock dana 300, clock and twin stick it, so ill have 1:1, 2:1, and 4:1, as well as fwd, rwd, and 4wd. ill have to many options to use hahaha.
ill grab some pictures with the bumpers and tire carrier back on when the weather is nice today
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got bumpers on and painted, just have to mod my tire carrier and hope that the 37" spare doesnt crack it haha. failed emissions cause of my gutted cat, so i gotta pull that and put in a high flow one i just picked up. then ill flex her out and see what happens
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kinda. i plan on running the dana 300 doubler when it comes out, so ill have 4:1 in low low, but can also twin stick and run 2lo. plus it should help with front driveshaft angles.
Broken Exhaust Studs
in 90-95 WD21 Pathfinders
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cherokees are unibodies, not possible to have a body lift
i was quoted 800 for all the studs, 2 were broken in the block. ended up replacing the studs with bolts when i was installing my headers