Spolar93

cherokees are unibodies, not possible to have a body lift i was quoted 800 for all the studs, 2 were broken in the block. ended up replacing the studs with bolts when i was installing my headers

37x14.00x14 Bias IROKs hahaha sorry i had too. for what its worth, they are my new favorite tires, i wish they made em in a smaller size than 36" for when i was ifs. 33x13.50 ltbs would be my choice for a smaller size though, they hook up nice!

its my diff breather tube that runs up by the airbox. its just a cut to fit cioled shop air hose

got about 34" of air under the front tire. no binding in the sliders either, so im gonna finish welding and gusseting everything in. measured out for the front drive shaft and picked up some square tube, 1310 u-joint, and a u-bolt kit.

think you might be able to come down with jared when hes done to tillamook state forest this summer? and nissyota im diggin your design haha. looks like the only difference is i cut out a 2"x2" square out of the inner ears so itd wrap around the crossmember for more weld area. if i remember right the holes were out 3" from the bottom of the tab? funny, even both have the mili wrapped front eye!

?? what do you mean? the springs will still go negative, just since the spring is getting shorter horizontly the slider will move forward ive seen them used sucessful either way. this version allows the pinion to stay at a flatter angle through the cycling of the suspension, as oppossed to a shackle which will force the pinion to move on greater angle. although i was contemplating angling them for increased droop, i figured id have more than enough travel this way. wheelin around seattle this summer jeremy?

WOW what a long couple days. finally got springs from the junk yard and bastarded my pack up. the main spring and mil wrap spring with the bottom 4 waggys i had. that and the slider leveled out the pre-runner rake, gave me a better pinion angle and caster, got my wheelbase to 108-9", and most of all pretty much killed my nasty body roll!!!!! im figuring the stability of the system is helping big time. they got pretty flexy on a small wall, and tomorrow ill be makin some spring clamps for the back, as well as welding in a couple reinforment plates on the inner side. next up to finish the front are gonna be a niiiiiiiice pair of bilsteins, maybe even the remote resievour ones (7100s?) :rr: greased up the rails with white lithium grease, and between the leaf springs, graphite molygrease. im thinkin the uhmw with break in on the rails in a week or so i plan on flexin it out on the volvo loader at work (i want those portals!!!) in the next few days to measure front d shaft and new shock lengths im likin my new coat of blue paint too, white just didnt work out like i thought it would.

why wouldnt it? you ever seen another modified car rollin down the street? weird.....

ive machined for 4 years and received scholarshipsfor it, but i dont have my bridgeport anymore so fab-by-pieces is whats up. shouldnt feel loose at all, in fact compared to my current shackle set up, its should add stability. now .005 is a bit small for an offroad enviroment that could foul something up with grit and mud im using .75" UHMW for the sliders

about 6 months ago i got the idea from these to replace the shackle end of my front springs: http://www.speedwaymotors.com/p/2151,157_L...pring%20sliders but they were too short and light duty for my needs so i came up with my design that used all 1/4" plate and used a longer slot, with it being ~12" in total length. after searching around the forums i came across this thread which helped immensely in refining my design: http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=652426 heres my fab work as of now, almost done with the other one as well. what do you guys think of concept and creation?

mmmmmmmmm....zips. casey if you can come down here, we got moscow mtn thats got killer winter wheelin. 93, im sure youll see me drivin around, i live on the back corner of greek row, address is 810 opal st.

one stick controls rwd: hi, neutral, and low. the other stick controls fwd: hi, neutral, low. so if both case have a 2:1 low range, then both cases in low give 4:1. wish i could go wheelin with you this summer, just got 4wd finally. too bad im leavin for pullman this sunday...

casey, and what might that be?! almac, i dont know yet, havent added up receipts. im guessing around 1500 so far

hahaha the offer came too late! im taken. but for sure, ill be out there in a week, we gotta find some trails around that area.

what do you need? its just a 5'1" piece of 2x4x.125 with the ends cut up. then i used .25" plate to connect it to the frame with 3 bolts per side. welded some triangular gussets from the bumper to the frame, and welded the catch for the latch to the bumper for extra strength with the newly added weight