strykeone

Apparently the mecahnic has 20 years experience with Nissan, and is the best in the city. Sounds like rhetoric to me. Lodge my complaint above the dealership...

97 xe 4x4 5spd I will make this as short as possible. About 2 weeks after the cold weather started my clutch started going soft, slowly at first until it made it nearly impossible to drive. I took it to the dealership, they bled the clutch and sent me on my way. A few days later the clutch began to go soft again, so I took it to the dealership. They installed a new master cylinder. After that, the clutch still went soft after a few days of driving. I returned it to the dealership, they installed a new slave cylinder. They said that a seal went likely because the person that installed the "new" clutch (it's on it's second clutch, installed 5 years ago) didn't use Oem parts and/or didn't install it properly. I found that funny, because the clutch was done at another Nissan dealership... Though disappointed at the fact that I put out $700, for a $300 repair, I didn't let it bother me because I was just happy to have my Pathy in tip top running condition again. Two days go by, I'm driving home from work and the clutch feels a little soft...dreaded air in the system again. Finally by tonight there is enough air in there to make the vehicle almost impossible to drive. So what do you guys think? It could be the clutch itself, but that clutch is only 30,000km old. And are these guys way out to lunch? I asked for my $700 back, and they are claiming they didn't do anything wrong so they won't refund it. Didn't they go wrong when they didn't properly identify the problem?

I'll be honest with you guys this Pathfinder will never see anything but pavement,that is precisely why I kept my 87 Pathy...so I just want looks not functionality. Does that make me a bad person? lol.

I recently purchased another pathfinder, a 97 xe sport with 128,000km on it. It's very sweet. Just looking for a brush guard right now, preferably something that is simple looking and clean. I have no idea where to look, haven't found much on the internet. Also what do you guys think about powder coated black rims to go with my black running boards and black brush guard?

Shes all done...easy little job, a few bolts caused some cussing, nothing too bad.

Fair enough, I'm on my way to the store right now.

Upon closer inspection I see that the alternator belt connects to the fan, and another pulley... so these problems are linked or I have one hell of a coincedence on my hands. In any case will I be able to replace the belt with minimal tools? Or should I just take her in?

Today I took my pathy out for a drive, and I wasn't getting any heat, and she was overheating. I brought it back home and noticed a belt on the ground. It was my alternator belt... There was coolant in the reservoir, it was steaming out. Thanks in advance. 87 4x4, 3.0L

"Is your clutch fluid level good? Exhaust hole leaking water out onto the underside and carbon fron the inside of the pipes making it look nasty?" Given the evidence this seems quite possible. I mean I can't imagine any part losing so much oil and surviving... would it stain the ground like similiar to oil? Maybe when I sprayed everything some water got up inside and made the problem temporarily worse?

I didn't do the swap myself, so I don't know if the seal was changed or not. I did get under there and it actually looks like the front diff. It is leaking more since the oil was changed, and it doesn't look like fresh oil at all. If it was the front diff would it be blowing back? CLutch level is good yes.

Honestly I'd probably just pay to get this done. I do have access to all the tools but just for the sake of ease. Clutch and flywheel are relatively new, swapped in engine. I think somebody effed up. It looks like it is leaking more after the stop leak and oil change.

Ok I will spray it off in the next week. I switched oils and added a "stop leak". I will see how this affects it. Anything I should worry about hitting with the pressure washer? The poil is very dark black on the ground, spreads out a lot. Looks like it splattered a lot. Checked my front diff, tranny, Tcase, engine oil levels. Engine was a tad low, thought it would be a lot lower. Rear main seal sounds about right here, but time will tell. If it is the rear main seal how much will it cost to fix? Thanks for the responses this is the most helpful forum I've ever been on :bow: .

Manual, btw

It is thick where it is on the brace, it doesn't smell at all though. On the ground it doesn't really look like engine oil. But then again I've never seen synthetic after it has leaked out. It is leaking quite a lot. I am due for an oil changed I will switch oils and try an additive.

And I mean A LOT. It's been doing this for a few weeks and I can't figure out from where. I checked my oil pan, clear of oil, checked my oil levels all good. It looks like way too much to be engine oil. Checked tranny oil a few times and it's good. I'm thinking it is the T-Case? The majority of the oil is on a brace across right underneath my tranny. When I look from the drivers side wheel well it appears as though the oil is leaking where the transmission connects to the engine. The vehicle still drives fine though there is some noise in the front end when going over step like obstacles. Information about the vehicle: 1987 3.0l 4x4. Engine was recently swapped in, less than a year ago (I suspect this has a lot to do with it). I use synthetic engine oil, the mechanic who did the swap told me to do so. Other than that she's running good.

No they did not go all out at once, the signal light went the day i put in a new battery, though I doubt that those are related. By light switch do you mean the one on the steering column? Because I've already addressed that issue For the tail light should I replace the whole thing or just the pplug for the light?

87 3.0 v6. Both my front driver side signal light and passenger tail light are out. I pulled and replaced both bulbs with much trouble because of the rust/corrosion in them. The tail light was especially bad (couldn't even see the contact). Neither worked with new bulbs. The tail light is really bad...can I just buy a replacement "plug" (don't know the name) and slap it in? Is there a way to clean it? The signal on the other hand has rust inside, just not nearly as much, I can see the contact but it refuses to work. The other signal works fine. Thanks in advance =)

You sound very covincing haha, I'll get right on it. Would that be in the main fuse box or located somwhere else?

I was re installing my head unit and I pushed, the loose wires toward the drivers side portion of the inside of the dash, in the space where the head unit would sit. It sparked and I had no tail lights or interior/dash lights. I repaired the switch not too long ago. I'm thinking a fuse? or maybe I pulled a ground wire off? I traced from the switch to the wires running through there and came up with nothing...I have a have a loose 2 prong plug in there, and another multi pronged plug running from a small ciruit board back there, both of which are connected to nothing. It's a 1987 5spd V6. Thanks in advance

So I did most of the things with n results, took it into the dealership on the advice of my friend whos forte is auto electrical work. Problem at the dealership now though, guy told me to bring it in but then they said I;d have to wait for an appointment. Great. My Pathy runs great though, this was entirely my fault.

OK so I was changing my oil using a steel filter wrench. I turned it and it touched something on the starter or solenoid and began sparking. No big deal, unhook negative battery terminal and continue oil change. Finish up. I go to start it, the starter clicks. Nothing. Lights work everythings good but starter won't go. I let the vehicle sit for a few min. Try to start again. Negative battery terminal sparks (so my friend said). Now I have no power. I stop to think whats going on, try power again. Power works starter won't. Now its sitting in the driveway, power works. But it won't start. I haven't the foggiest as to where to begin. Btw 1987, 3.0L

It is steaming, I see a thin mist over my hood at stop lights. I pop the hood, and nothings there. Mine doesn't choke out, but the revs do drop until its warmed up. I will do MAF sensor as well.

Sounds logical, it idles at 2000 rpm at startup, is this another indicator? Your guess is as good as mine, I checked the rad and everything looked fine. Coolant levels good. Temp gauge good. Can't be it happens especially when I'm off the brakes. Happens more so in reverse as well. I am going to try the degreaser. As far as I can tell it is around the plug, but this will confirm what I think. Diff oil change this weekend.

1) Yes, fuel injected. I will try changing oil, though it looked good when I checked it. Will also try additive. 2) I'm going have to take a harder look at this, I can't tell for sure but I think my radiator is not original 3) I have oil around the plug, but it may have just been loose. Like I said the oil level was fine (according to Haynes manual). Will change the oil soon though. Thank you for the help.

1) Vehicle is blowing grey right after startup, checked oil, level is good. 2) I think the engine is steaming, but my temp gauge reads good and my antifreeze level is good. 3) Coming out of driveway in reverse it makes vicious screaming sound. Not sure if it is coming from tranny or some other part of the vehicle 4) How can I tell if the rear diff is leakingoil/needs an oil change? I checked the level, seemed good, but oil was dark.