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aeternaldark

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Posts posted by aeternaldark

  1. It really isnt hard

     

    I have a writeup with pictures in progress - I should probably finish it now I have graduated university....

     

     

    IDK what to do with my core either - maybe try to sell it on craigslist to a rebuilding company?

     

    you cut your harness off the auto too right?

     

     

    did the writeup ever happen?? im looking for some info on the topic and it sounds very interesting.

  2. I suggest NOT soaking the distributor, or the alternator.....but mostly the distributor. (or ignition pack depending on year)

     

    if the engine is running when you go to spray it down, the FAN will blow the water everywhere, so you will end up getting sprayed too....most likely in the eyes.

     

    let engine cool a while, cover distributor with a rag or plastic bag just to help keep it dry.....and try not to blast water on it or right into the alternator......then immediatly start engine and let it run a while to dry so you dont leave the spark plug areas filled with water.

     

    it may sputter for a few moments if you get a little water in places it doesn't belong.

     

    i kind of did that today, i hosed my engine... no problem whle the engine was running on minimun.. but i started to notice some hessitation or maybe a misfire, so i decided to go for a spin... and apparently something is missingo.. it sounds like and old vw beetle... i just hope it dries down and that i didnt screw any sensor :crossedwires:

  3. It never squeals on the first start of the day - it seems to happen on the 2nd or third start-up (when warm). This has been happening for about a month now. Recently, I have noticed a noise (squeal/whine) from the engine compartment while driving that seems to build with the RPMs and drop when I shift; buiding again as RPMs increase.

     

    My pathy is just killing me right now - running rich, IACV problems, squealing etc. What a headache! /rant

     

    i might mean that youre pulleys does not have texture or grip... at least thats happening with mine... i think im gonna change them all, ive tried a few remedies, but nothing seems to work anymore than any minutes :crossedwires:

  4. well im sure its possible becasue if they can replace the stock z31 300zx with is from the 80s (same motor)with them and get them to work then you should be able to do it in your pathfinder.

    i found some mechanic speedometers that might help, but i just cant tell what cable or drive mine has... i thing its a square drive, i looked at it behind the gauge cluster, but dont know if the cable is the same... or the plug under the trans [?] is the same ...

  5. None that I can think of off hand, unless maybe a few super modded motor/tranny swap owners. :shrug:

     

    What is failing in your gauge cluster? You can replace the singular gauges. You need parts from the 87-93 year range.

    I'd start by looking here in the classified section, a lot of people are parting out trucks. I know this isn't the answer you wanted, but it may be of value regardless.

     

    B

    i actually got one and took it apart to make one out of two, but they keep giving really bad reading and dying on me while in use. what i would like to do is to sorth of replace the speedometer with an aftermarket... in the same plave, maybe cot off the back of the cluster and give space to the new one...

  6. After a very desapointing search for a full functional and working gauge cluster i realized that its like hunting dor dodo... and i thought, well, why have a dodo when you can make a nice meal out of chicken or anything else. I found an autometer brand meters site, where i found a list of their products.

     

    I wanted to find the right meter for my 91 SE-V6, but i had a hard time doing it. i dont know the tech talk, i just take it apart and try to fix it and well... i did not know what type my pathy needs.

     

    Basically, what i want to know is if any of you, fine people, has completely replaced the gauge cluster with any aftermarket sets or meters.

  7. dont quote me but from what ive heard manual are better. warn and mile marker both make manual hubs. some hardbodys also had factory manuals which are considered the strongest of all the hubs.

     

    87-89 are 27 spline. Warn, MM, and super winch all make hubs for them.

     

    90-95 are 28 spline. Warn and MM are the only suplier.

     

    Factory HB manuals are 28 spline.

     

    are they sold by the pair? ive found some online, but they wouldnt say if theyre singles or packs.... and pictures are not very accurate.

  8. My 91 6v se started making noises, i was afraid it was the transfer itself. When i drove it with the mechanic, he told that it was the automatic LOCK hubs, and that i should change them.

     

    He gave me some options that i've never heard before... one of them changing the automatic locks for some manual lock out hubs, wich made me wonder about how to get them, i mean: do i need brand and model specific replacements or are there any generic type? is it better to get manual or automatics?

     

    Please, help me. :puterpunch:

    Thanks.

  9. Hi, im a new member, i have a 1991 SE-V6 Pathy.... It was my father since 2000, now he passed it on to me... i love this car!! Has a lot of control, Powerfull engine, and its really confortable.

     

    Right now, its summer around here (Mexicali, Baja) so, its to hard to be out there on the sun, but i enjoy riding the dunes around the desert along with friends, as well as camping in the Sierra (forrest)... Well, Thats it, thanks!

     

    I'll try to post a picture of my Pathy Soon!!

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