IndianRider
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Posts posted by IndianRider
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redpath88
thanks for the tip .. thats what i had in mind .. should get the job done ..
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My 96 pathy makes a rattling noise at a couple of key RPM's, I think at about idle and 2500. I found a bracket, right beneath the front passenger door, in the exhaust line that was broken. I had a buddy rev the engine until the rattle and then I pressed around the exhaust with my shoe until the vibrations were dampened, I then noticed the cracked bracket. I haven't replaced it yet, but it is not a serious issue, just an annoyance.
i have the same EXACT problem .. after about a year of the annoying rattle, i got rid of the bracket that holds both the exhaust pipes to the underbody ..
i need to come up with a cheap home made bracket to tie up both the exhaust pipes from shaking excessively .. maybe one of those aftermarket exhuast clamps with some heavy duty exhaust repair tape might solve the problem ..
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mine was doing that on level ground too at around 100K miles .. so i changed the tranny oil and filter and made sure that the tranny oil level was up to the mark and its running great now ..
make sure u check the tranny oil level after properly warming up the engine/tranny and check it while the engine is running .. it took me 3 or 4 days of driving and repeated checking to get the tranny oil up to the mark ..
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can anyone please post a pic of the 1996 pathfidner front strut assembly please .. i have doubts on how i reassembled the strut bearing and top mounting assembly ..
actually a service manual pdf the strut replacement procedure will be really helpful ..thanks in advance ..
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everything did go back together ..
upon installation of the new KYB strut, there was about a 2 inch distance between the "upper stabilizing bar link bolt" and its bracket on the KYB strut..
hence i jacked the the lower control arm assembly from underneath to compress the strut so the bolt would allign with its "bracket" on the strut .. (Haynes Repair Manual - page 10-6 , Fig. 3.2b, Part labelled B in the pic) ..
i should have not said "spindle" i actually jacked up the whole lower control arm ..
heres is what i did to remove the old strut. removed wheel, removed the 2 big bolts that attach the strut to the spindle, removed the upper bolt of the stabilizing bar link and removed the 3 upper strut mounting nuts in the engine bay ..
i DID NOT remove the lower bolt of the stabilizing bar link nor did i remove the stabilizing arm itself hence maybe the 2 inch difference in allignment upon installation of the strut ..
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1996 SE 4X4 , auto , 122k miles .
finally got to change my front stock strut to a KYB strut ..used the factory coil .. was such a B**** doing it alone outside in 100f temps .. i am going to do the other strut next weekend..
question: do i need to do a wheel alignment after changing the front strut?
also, had to jack up the wheel hub/spindle assembly so the upper stabilizing bar link bolt would fit the hole/bracket in the strut .. is this correct ?
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what remote sensors on the SE model ??????? first ive heard of them ..my SE has regular shocks ..
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vengeful,
i cant beleive i missed ur reply to this thread ..id love to have ur coils .. 40K on them doesnt look like a lot ..i got 120 now on the stock ones and the pathy rocks and rolls all over .. please let me pay the shipping .. i really appreciate it ..
my email is : drvijay007@hotmail.com thanks ..
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i get not more than 10mpg in the winter (when i start it up and let it run for 3-4 minutes each day morning in the cold winter morning) -thnkboutit-
otherwise, im arund 14-17 city/hwy in spring/summer/fall ..
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The only way to get an LSD on a 96 was with an XE level truck and the sport package. [/url]
my 96 SE 4X4 auto has the LSD ..
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Below are links to some more pics that might help you. Note: since removing the rotor requires removal of the hub assembly, you might as well plan to do a bearing repack while you're at it. You will need new inner bearing grease seals. (There's one per hub.)
Removing the outer hubs (ignore steps describing installation of manual hubs):
http://www.xplorx4.com/pathfinder/upgrades/warnhubs/
Removing the entire hub assembly:
thanks for the detailed pic ..
so why did u install the manual locakable hubs ? when u leave it in OFF in 2 high mode, does it get u better gas meilage ?
and then u cant shift on the fly anymore if u leave ur hubs unlocked right ??
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thanks a lot for the links .. yeah looks like its better to go ahead and replace the bearings too coz ur in there .. snowing bad here
might get to it next week though .. -
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ive had my knock sensor and o2 senson codes for 1 year and 15,000 miles now .. the check engine light goes away in a week and comes on again in maybe 2 months .. i was told by nissan mechanics its a common problem and dont worry about it if ur state doesnt have emission check ..i havent worried about it and the pathy runs great ...
or just go to autozone and erase the check engine light if its bothering so much ..
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As others have said, the transfer case is working properly. All it does is apply equal engine power to the front and rear axle. A "4WD" isn't really a four-wheel-drive, it's really a two-axle-drive. As stated above, with open differentials on both axles, power is transferred to the wheel with the least traction.
The only way to get a true FOUR-wheel-drive is to install a locking differential on both axles.
The only locking differential that can be installed in your Pathfinder is an ARB air-locker, which not only costs over $600, it also requires installation of an on-board air compressor.
The second alternative to improving traction is to install limited-slip differentials. I believe you can get limited slip differentials for the front and rear from Automotive Customers (4x4parts.com).
i thought my 96 SE 4X4 has a rear LSD from the factory .. is this not true ?
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cold idle control system working improperly ?? the small unit might be stuck coz its supp. to have a wax filled valve which work when engine is cold, and keeps revss up and stops working when engine is at normal operating temps.. bouncy idle even after engine warmed up = vaccum leak ??
on my honda prelude, it was called IACV, Idle Air Control Valve ..is also called cols start valve, idle air control system ..or elec. idle air control system .. diff. manufacturers call it diff. things..
its like an electronic/mechanical choke ..
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lewisinc is right..the water pump comes with its gasket so u use the rtv sealant in between the water pump sealing surface and thesupplied gasket ..not in between the block and gasket ..
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lewisnc100 thanks for the pics and the part numbers. One question though, was it necassary to change the tensioner? Since I am ordering the parts and have to wait for them to ship I don't want my mechanic to have the dam thing apart and then tell me he needs another part.
Also is there any nissan gaskets for the waterpump or thermostat?
I am going to do the dizzy cap, rotor, plugs, fuel filter, pcv valve and air filter also. I just got four brand new 265/70/r15 Yokohama ht/s's last week and a computer allignment. A few months ago I got the front suspension done. This truck is going to be absolutely perfect when I am done.
By the way the truck is in need of a tune up and I still get about 300 miles on a tank of gas with almost all highway miles. With some city it's slightly less.
i just used the high temp. rtv gasket sealant ( red one) for the water pump and thermostat .. waited for 2 hrs so it set then fired it up .. not a drop leaking anywhere..good stuff ... just make sure u clean/scrape the old gasket material on the mating surfaces, finish off with fine grit sand paper.. the gasket material on the block for the water pump is a bitch ..had to spray a gasker remover and use a blade with a scraper to get it all off ..take ur time ..dont rush ...
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so is there anywhere else that the vg33e is prone to leaking?? I have a decent leak that hits the bottom of the alt. (on one of the bolts holding it to the engine) and about same spot on the other side also. It does not show on the dip stick but after a good power wash it returns down below the diff and try's to drip off the frame in about 3500 miles.
Unfort. the other day when I was busy spinning on a fresh Napa Gold, I got dripped on by some antifreeze....where in the "H" could that have came from?? My poor pathy has 94K on it, and as soon as I sell my REX I am putting a good chunk of it into the T-Belt and other normal maint goodies.
dont sell the REX man .. thats what i turn to when i need that awesome rush of power and torque .. i just put a Kerker Meg., k&N pods and re jetted with Factory Pro stage 3.0 kit this week .. still need to adjust needle position .. too cold to go for test rides ... but that kerker race meg. shreiks like a formula 1 car ..awesome raw barking sound ..
are u a member of the www.zrxoa.org ?
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replacing starter doesnt seem to be too hard at all on my 96 pathy althought ive never replaced it..i looked it up once, and it looks like there are only 2 long bolts to remove under/side of the tranny housing with wiring of course ..
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common symptom of a rich fuel condition on carburetted motorcycles on start up ..more fuel and less air .. i know in fuel injected vehicles the cold start idle control prevents that via ecu, but u can try cleaning or replacing air flter .. air filter clogged = less air , and more fuel being supplied by the fuel inj. by injectors. less air and more fuel = rich condition .. but the cold start idle control situation is supp. to be imm. recognized by ecu and adjusts by high idle at start up maybe 1500+ rpm till engine warms up then slowly drops to normal idle..
or clean throttle body, many initial idle problems go away after a TB clean up ..
or is it freakingly cold like one other member mentioned ??
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Would the tranny cooler being clogged on the older one have anything to do with it? I put an additional tranny cooler on mine and i would have to say that my truck (1998) behave more closely to your firends. it does drop into 3rd, but it will make an effort in 4th first. The only other thing that i could point at would be the vacuum line to the cruise control...this is what is holding the truck at that speed so maybe you have a leaky line to the throttle body??
what do u mean additional tranny cooler ? did u replace stock cooler with aftermarket one ? or did u put another 2nd cooler to supplement the stock one ?
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vaccum leak /cruise control/ throttle body .. hmm, i dont think so ..coz even when im not in cruise, i kinda have to stab at the pedal in 4th, but it cant take it like my friends and kicks down into 3rd..
as for the clogged tranny cooler, i dont know if mines clogged.. i changed the tranny oil 3 times in 5000 miles so the new oil would slowly replace all old oil..never cleaned tranny cooler.. i know for sure, his doesnt have a tranny cooler, his pathy is the model that came without a tranny cooler, where the single radiator cools both antifreeze and tranny oil passing through it ..
im even more pissed now .. the other day i got to drive my buddys pathy again with a trailer that weighs 800lbs ..drove it to cincinnati, same usual hilly road i always take and am very familiar with the pathy tranny behavior on that stretch..that son of a gun pulled the freaking trailer without ever going into 3rd gear..strong as ever in 4th even on uphills, cruise or no cruise , with the damn trailer .. my pathy drops down into 3rd atleast 5-6 times the same 50 mile stretch and that too without a trailer .. that route is hilly, and ive driven a 2004 ford taurus with a V6, and a 2000 honda accord with a V6 that down shifted 2-3 times same stretch .. so how can his pathy pull so hard in 4th without downshifting to 3rd when the pathy is known to downshift in hilly regions coz its "relatively" underpowered motor ( hp/toprque) in its calss ..
thats why i cant freaking beleive the diff. in tranny behavior..its got to be software if u ask me .. coz my pathy is sliky as new with good gas meilage and runs like a champ ..what amazes me me hes got 220K with neglected maintenance, and mines got 113,XXX k now with great maintenance.. wish i had his tranny though ..
i need to drive a 3rd R 50 pathy with 3.3 L on the same stretch to be convinced that both pathys had diff. tranny management computers..
clicking / thumping while steering to the left
in 96-2004 R50 Pathfinders
Posted
hello all ..
1996 Pathy 4X4 Se Auto here .. 133K miles ..
just noticed this today ..when the pathy is in motion (eg: 45 mph) and i take a slight turn to the left i feel and hear a clikcing and/or thumping noise coming in from the steering and front end .. this noise goes away when i return the steering to center position ..
its not exactly like a clickin noise you get when the CV joint is busted on a front wheel drive vehicle but its similar .. i have no problem on right turns when the vehicle is in motion ..
also this does NOT happen when the vehile is stopped and turning slowly at 5mph when the steering wheel is totally locked to the left side .. only happens in motion at above 5 mph speeds ..
i thought it was the front CV joint but the clicking is still there even after i take my foot off the gas .. i know that the pathy front CV axles rotate all the time even in 2 wheel drive but if its the CV joint i thought that the clicking would go away when you step off the gas in a turn .. or is this only true in front wheel drive cars with cv joint problem .. ?
also with the motor turned off and the vehicle parked, the steering wheel kinda has excess play and when i turn the steering wheel to the left and let go suddenly to center position, i feel a thud or a click in the steering when it returns to the center position .. like there was excess play or something like that .. this doesnt happen when i do the same after turning the steering to the right and releasing it suddenly to the center position ..
what else can it be ? tie rods ? any tests that can be done to test steering components ... ?