here4now

actually around here the difference between a $500 car and an $800 car is whether or not it needs brakes and how fast you buy it. if you are quick you get it for $500 if not it gets sold by someone else for $800.

VERY inaccurate statement when it comes to buying cars. I buy and sell cars fairly frequently, and most of them are of the $500 variety. typically they need a CV axle and some a good cleaning for them to be good to go. sometimes more, but not all that often. in June I bought a 94 Dodge Caravan for $300. Do you know what it needed? a drivers seat and an A/C recharge. If it hadn't been totaled in an accident I'd still be happily driving it. it came with ALL the paperwork from BRAND new. and it ran perfectly.

true, it's not bad for most people. beats out the loss from buying a newer car it has usability issues that I didn't realize / think about when I bought it. it is highly unlikely I'll be back in this section. newer one maybe when they get down to $500 :-P

I lost $80. I haven't lost that kind of money on a car in a while typically I make money on my cars. at least part of my horn issue was that there was no plastic under the pad. :eek: oh, just an FYI to all, the 92 G20 steering wheel looks identical to the 94 Pathfinder steering wheel except for the Infiniti logo in the center.

I will be sending my friend john over to this board though. He also has a 94 Pathy almost identical to the one I sold.

I'm used to buying cheaper cars that need work and having the work done, but 6 months ago I lost my work space so I haven't quite gotten out of that mentality yet. I am looking at a 93 maxima SE, but it has 2 misses. it's nothing new to me though, I've had 4 of them so far doubt I'll get it though, it needs brakes/brake lines, plus a battery plus most likely 2 injectors. time to keep looking

I paid $500 for it. I put $180 into tires plus $20 to install one of them (other 3 were free) $85 for the starter plus $50 to install the second defect $60 for front pads (late night AZ purchase by a friend who thought I was going to keep it long term) I did check the truck out when I bought it, I just didn't pull the tire to see the caliper issue as the brakes felt fine. It ran rough, but I just assumed it was a rough running motor, not a miss (which really isn't a big deal). The stupid side of me didn't check the tires. Starter was going when I looked at it, and I knew it had no speakers, but didn't catch the horn issue until after I bought it. The tire carrier was off the truck when I bought it so didn't know it was seized. Live and learn. I'm sure I will get something better, this truck was an anomaly in my car history. normally I buy a car, drive it for a while and sell it for a profit. if it wasn't for the dam starter I would have made money on it in the long run.

I'm not going away mad, the vehicle was a lemon that's all. It was a learning experience, that reminds me not to buy a car with bald tires. starter bad rear caliper held in by 1 bolt with frozen slides IAC not functional no speakers no horn frozen rear tire carrier hatch and window struts bad Door locks wonky (if you locked it, good luck opening it again) No rear frame rust A/C belt off possible miss unknown age of timing belt and those are the issues that I knew of. I got $750 for it. 150k 1994 SE V6 offroad package

it's been fun, but I sold my nightmare last night, so I seriously doubt I will be back on this forum. I may end up in one of the newer sections in the future. if I get a VQ pathy, the VGs are way too underpowered to me. Thank you to every one who has helped me with the nightmare.

time span between install and failure was less than a week. I bought the truck on the 11th of december. Sold it last night. They were refurbs

front end sag does not necessarily have anything to do with shocks. Have you tried adjusting your torsion bars?

oops I guess I wasn't clear. it is 3 separate starters. not 3 separate instances. Indigent, the OPS was replaced when we pulled the starter the first time because the connector got damaged. K9sar, I am trying to figure out if there is something that could be killing the starters that rapidly.

my starter has failed for a 3rd time. starter 1: would click but no crank most of the time, sometimes it would crank over just fine. starter 2: started just fine about 5 times then it just started to spin continuously even with the key off until I whacked it, then it stopped. starter 3: started just fine about 3 times then it just started to spin continuously even with the key off until I disconnected the battery, even after whacking it several times. What the fark could be causing this? am I just having that bad of luck with these 2 remans? is it some electrical thing that I don't see in the wiring diagram? I am not that far off from putting full coverage on the truck and throwing a match in the gas tank!!

tranny dead. Rear end about to get sore.

look in the phone book under auto parts?