ruggs

I am looking a buying a 88 Pathfinder. The thing has been sitting for about 5 years. It starts and idles fine, but as you drive down the road it'll die on you. That's all the info i have on the subject but I wanted to know if you guys had an idea on what it could be. Thanks for looking

Never mind, I guess it is 3.3L!! Iam going to put in around 3.75 L Cheers

I don't have a manual for this truck. It's an 87 withe vg30 v6 and I need to know the oil capacity in liters if possible, if not quarts. I ahev heard that they only tak 3.5 quarts but that seems really low. That's like 3.3L !!!

Its fixed!!!! It's never runs this good. Thanks Matterhorm and company for the info. It was a combination of a bad wire, 2 vacuum leaks and and the fast idle being way out of adjustment. The previous owner must have totally focked with it. Cheers guys, now I don;t want to sell it

I will check for that vacuum-t and I am about to put the new wires on. I'll keep ya posted. That vacuum leak would make my idle lumpy adnd make the puffing chugging sound though would it?

I am going to get another set of wires to see if that helps. I should also check the plugs while iam in there just to make sure they are fooked. I never looked at them in the 5 months since I've owned the truck. By the way, now that my truck idles at 1000 rpms at warm, the oil pressure gauge reads 0!!!!! That's not a good thing. And that's with 20w50 in there!!! I also found a cut vacuum line coming from what looks to be my cruise control. What is it supposed to be hooked up tp and where? I have a feeling there may be a vaccuum leak somewhere because of that but I haven't found it yet.

OK, I adjusted the fast idle cam, it was way out of adjustment if your info is correct and I'm sure it is. So now my truck runs at 1000 rpm at idle when warm which is better than 1500 like it was, but it is still puffing and idling lumpy. WTF could that be? I can't see it being the idle being out of adjustment that is making my motor sound like it has a burnt valve...... When I was manually operating the throttle with my hands I got a mjor shock from the motor. My hand was against the dist. cap but it shouldn't shock me like that should it? Unless I have a bad wire? the cap is new. Could this be causing that puffing sound ie. a dead cylinder at idle but enough juice to fire the cylinder at higher rpms? Please help me!!! Timing is set at 14 degrees instead of 12 degrees because it ran better before at that setting. I'm sure 2 degrees would be causing this problem either.

i will try all that. Thanks for the info. Here's another question while I am here.... When I take my airfilter out and close up the aircleaner assembly say to pass aircare, my motor idles really low and wants to stall. That doesn;t seem normal to me at all since I have done that to other vehicles to put them thru aircare. Maybe this another indication of a problem. I just thought I'd mention it. cheers

What does the thermo element look like? What does the fast idle throttle cam look like. I haven;t messed around with Nissan tbi's at all so I need all the help I can get. I will take a look though. Another question though, if I had a bad plug would it be posssible for it to still fire at higher rpms but not at idle? I am starting to think I may have a burnt valve becuase of the rough idle and puffing sound coming out of the exhaust at idle. Keep the info coming guys, I appreciate it

@!*%e!! Could the fact that I didn't reset the ecu make it not realize that there is another distributor in there?? if that's true, that pisse me off!! can anybody vouch for that idea? If so maybe I'll try that dist. again. I will also check that wax choke. Also, I think I may have a burnt valve. At idle it's really lumpy and produces a sort of puffing sound out the exhaust. When I am driving thoug it seems fine...............WHO KNOWS!!!!!!!!!

No , I can't see it being any of those being the problem. The truck has done this since I bought it. Plugs, wires, rotor etc, would not create these problems. I have plenty of vacuum so I don;t think it's a vacuum leak thing. Like I said, it seems like it is missing at idle but not under load when I am driving it. There has got to be someone in this forum that has an idea............ :sniff:

Hi I have an 87 Pathy w/ V6. Here is my problem.... WHen I start it up when cold it bogs for a second then idles at 2000 rpm, then it will start dropping to 1100 and then back up to 2000rpm almost like the egine dies then pickups up again. Once it warms up it stays to around 1500 rpm and it idles lumpy and kind of makes a sputtering noise out of the exhaust. But when i hit the gas and when I am driving it feels fine and doesn't miss or anything. WTF is the problem with this POS? I checked the computer and it said CAS is toast but I swapped in another distributor and it did the same thing!!! SO I think it was an old code or something. THe engine light was never on. Any ideas ???

Thanks for the info guys I figured it all out, but when I put the used distributor in I found that the truck still runs the same so the CAS in that dist. must be screwed too! What a pain in the hiney!!

I just got a distributor for my pathy (87) but I forgot to mark where the rotor position was ans now my pathy won't start. How do I find TDC on this motor and then what irection should the rotor be in. I need to get this thing running now!!! or I am FOOKED!!! :furious:

I just replaced the old dist. cap. It not only had a hole in it but it also had rusty and oxidized terminals inside. But get this. It still runs the f'ing same -thnkboutit- I know the crank angle sensor is shot in my distributor so maybe that is causing all the problems but I still figured with a cap that messed up that it would run better. F ME!!! The wrekers want $150 for a used one and a rebuilt one costs $300. And I still not sure if that's the problem. My dad says that I may have a burnt valve. Does anyone know what that would sound like or what the symptoms would be?