jonathanpalmer12
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Posts posted by jonathanpalmer12
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I ended up buying a pathfinder with an LSD on it, it came with a rear bumper with a tire rack mounded on it if anyway wants to buy it off of me.
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Yeah would of never thought it was a wiring issue
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I ended up having it towed and turns out it was a problem with the ECT and had a wiring issue.
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Heres an idea of what's it is doing
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2 hours ago, adamzan said:
I’d start with the coolant temp sensor and the MAf sensor wiring. It is known to be problematic.
I’ve worked on a ton of these trucks and I have never seen a failed fuel regulator before.
Okay, I'll check my MAF and coolant sensor tomorrow. I was thinking it might of jumped time but I'm not sure. I also had to order new lines because I had cut the lines going into the air intake on the back side and they are pinched, but it ran fine before so I dont think its that
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3 hours ago, zakzackzachary said:
I'd recommend a quick check of the spark plugs/plug wires. Easy enough to do and at least it'll tell you your plugs didn't crack for some reason or wiring got messed up.
I did, didn't do anything I still had spark.
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Hey guys and gals, I was driving home and i noticed my pathfinder with the 3.0 started to run a little rough, but was fine unless you hammered it (the throttle was lagging on it). Well it stalled out on me and I couldn't get it started back up. Well I got it off the road and was able to bump start it and it would idle fine but didnt want to revv up. Well I tried to drive it home didnt do very well so I back it back down to the gas station and now it doesn't even want to run on a bump start or starting, it is spitting out black smoke and sounded like a race car at idle but worse. Any ideas. I just changed my idle control valve on it.
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Yeah, damn really is lol. I might just make a tire rack to come off the bumper instead. Seems like it's easier to get one with it
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I'm trying to get the bracket, because I have the top one just not the bottom one, I was trying to see whats the best way to remove it because they have it at a junkyard and we tried to get it out but the guy wasnt sure. It's not a pull apart. Because if it was I'd have it out already.
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I'm referring to the brackets that are inside the corner panel that you screw the bolts into
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Hey guys, I'm trying to get a tire rack bracket off a 1994 Nissan pathfinder the lower park, and ideas on now to get it out? I need it to mount mine to one that doesnt have it.
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And to do the distributor cap is it just one bolt?
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Okay, I figured, just looking at the 2 bolts on the very bottom and it is very tight and I'm not sure if I'll be able to get one of the bolts off towards the timing belt housing
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Hey guys, I'm having a problem, so I was able to get my driver side valve cover off and replaced the gasket and grommets, but I seem to be having trouble getting it back on. I'm talking about the screw under the distributor cap? I really dont want to pull the distributor. Any suggestions?
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I figure out what it was, it was the idle air controls valve all gummed up.
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17 hours ago, Precise1 said:
Have you checked the ECU for codes?
Check to make sure the TPS is responding right (be sure to jiggle the wiring harness/connector, when it is running, of course)
This might sound crazy, but I had a '95 manual that started to stumble/bog when shifting 1-2 and then 2-3 also. It would pick right back up and run fine again. Check the dizzy cap... mine had completely burned out the center contact and 1/2 the spring, so the spark was just arcing from the top of the cap down to the rotor. Had to prove it to the Autozone boys... showed them the inside of the cap, snapped it on, fired it up and hauled ass around the building for them. They basically crapped themselves...
Anyway, check the cap, it takes 1 minute.
Okay, I went down to my autozone and one of the guys is a retired mechanic, he said check if some of my EGR was gummed. I forgot what the part is called but it sits on the very back of the intake upside down. But I will check that when I get back. The transmission I had rebuilt was making a grinding sound like the throw out bearing was bad and hard to shift into gears sometimes so i was told the synchronizers weren't matching. But I will try that when I get back from vacation.
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Hey guys. I have a 1994 Wd21, the truck spits and sputters and slows down for a few seconds maybe 30 seconds at max and then is fine. Only does it at low speeds and sometimes does it between second and third. It's weird. Sometimes it may surge but I can have my foot to the floor and nothing. Think this may be a fuel pump. The filter has been replaced and I put seafoam in it and it usually doesn't do it for a while. When it does do it, happens here and there. But been happening a lot more frequently.
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Okay thank you, I see that now looking at it. And well that's good. I think mines probably contaminated with oil because when I had the motor put in the mechanic didnt do camshaft seals.
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Motor is not factory, but it has a motor from another one from the same year. And that's for a VG33E not vg30e
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I'm pretty handy, just not sure if it's something I'm going to want to have to do every 60k, because I drive a lot and would be looking at it ever year or 2.
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So I have a 95 wd21 I had a transmission rebuilt in it costing 2200. But now the timing belt is coming up and that's look at a 1k alone and I'm not sure if I want to dip my toes into this anymore. Also front end is junk and needs to be replaced, might do an SAS swap if I keep it. Should I just run until the motor goes and put a td27 or vg33e in it? Any thoughts first year in college will be done in may of next year.
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12 hours ago, Slartibartfast said:
We really havent had an issue with the newer one we have it's a 1997, and I know who you're talking about. Its Ed Bolivian who did the cannaball run with a Mercedes. I was looking for something underneath the car because it doesnt have much room.
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57 minutes ago, bushnut said:
I’ve been thinking on this a while. I may have a solution. My dead R50 has the fuel thank on the left, my wd22 has it on the right. I’ve got to figure out some brackets and plumbing....one of my many summer projects.
Let me know how it works out, I cant imagine mounting on it wouldn't be bad, you could look into how 7.3l f350 the older ones with 2 tanks get fuel, they have one fuel pump and suck it between both.
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1 hour ago, RustFlames said:
The tire carrier is overengineered you could perhaps mount a steel jerry can on I and somehow plumb it in the main tank?
Yeah I was thinking of that, maybe just run 2 cans and just fill it up, that would give me room for 150 miles or so. Mine currently doesn't have it but I have all the parts to fit it.
Parking break/Emergency break not working
in General Forums
Posted
Hey guys, I've owned 4 pathfinder all hard body and seems like the emergency break going to the drums dont work. Anyone have an easy fix or a solution to this? I've tried to tighten the cables but doesnt work.