JosephMartin

Hi guys! So,brakes were just a little squeeky for a month, suddenly the brake pedal won't go down, like it's resisting, and only 10% brake power now. Had to compensate with ebrake and brake pedal. No tear on the rotors, pads low. Been sometime though since rotors been changed. Help any1...? Thanks....

Thanks Rebelord....pretty sad my phone doesn't have the space to download fsm, and I don't have a computer. However, once my computer is FIXED, the fsm is priority. Good news, I found topics and pics on timing in npora...I got it running fantastic, idling at 950, 800 in gear. A titch high, but I can live with that lol. There sure is no marker on oil pan to match the punch notch on crank tooth up to. I just went with TDC on piston 1, that puts the first notch on crank pulley on the marker that's on timing case cover(and there's like 5 damn notches) so far left notch. My crank sprocket key was at about 11:00, as the forums said it should be too. I've learned so damn much this last almost four weeks under the hood, and I couldn't have done it without you all. Thanks for your patience with a rookie bro lol.....

Thank u hawairish

Rebelord....man I'm sorry for what seems to be my incompetence. I think folks got impatient with me, and everyone gave such great advice and direction. I apologize. I will try to explain everything happening. Turns out the distributor was going bad. Got a new one. Thought it was fuel pump/filter, replaced them (thank God for access panel). New MAF and throttle body sensor. New plugs n wires. The timing got messed up doing a water pump replacment few months ago, or so we thought. Can't find free FSM. It was running better, but not like it used to, and eventually got worse, dying out at every stop. Idles high(about 1500-1800rpm), is at 1k when in gear. Distributor is all the way clockwise, and throttle body is set at .50milivolts or whatever they are. My pop is a long time mechanic, but we can't quite figure it out. He says we should be able to set distributor in the middle and slightly adjust either way to perfect the timing IF the crank and cams are properly set. It shifts hard while driving, and when the pedal is in the spot between accelerating and not(while going down the road) it's jerky....but I hit the gas and it's fine or let completely off and it's fine with the exception of rough shifting while driving. In 48 hours it got alot worse. My fuel reading is inaccurate and I turned the float to point toward passenger side as not to hit or get hung up on fuel pump housing, and it's better but still not right. But, I first need to get my crank timing right before anything. Piston one is topped out, and of the five notches in the crank pulley, I just set it from the center notch now to the farthest left notch and lined up that notch with the pointer marker protruding from the crank "casing". Cannot find ANY Mark on the block frame to match up to the punch Mark on the timing "tooth" of the crank. I want this to be the last time I tear it down to Jack with timing. Thank you for reading my post, and again, I'm sorry for my "rookieness"...I'm trying.

Any 1....plz

On a 1999 Pathfinder, 3.3 2wd, I've got 5 "tic/notches" on my crank shaft pulley.....so, which notch is supposed to be center of the metal marker protruding from the casing cover? (As there is NO Mark on the metal block like the cams have that little bubble on the block). Truck is finally running thank God. Y'all have been wonderful and patient, thanks guys.......

Me too..thanks!!

Fellas, plz read fuel tank post....apologies

I'm sorry guys, y'all have given me fantastic direction, guidance and insight, and I apologize for not responding promptly. I've had to shuffle rides to work, and have a second part time job and 3girls, it's been cram n jam for me. However, the fuel pump and distributor were bad, and we got it running and driving as it was thank God. We checked timing because I recently did the fuel pump and thermostat, and replaced two belts, the third was good. I posted the fuel tank post ten mins before I was going to start the fuel pump job, and just went to town on the tank. I've become pretty familiar with my truck now, and may have leveled up in the wrench area. I'm a novice at this, and put in some time. Alot of it is intimidating, but I stayed at it me n my pop. Again, thanks for yalls patience and guidance, I hope the next time I'm under the truck y'all can Grace me and continue to support me. It's been quite an experience. Hope u guys have a great day....THANK U ALL

Replaced sensors, got fuel tank shroud UN bolted, but there is a hard rubber line that goes from my rear driver side rotor and was fastened to the shroud, and goes to the other side of shroud. Brake fluid line? Does it have to be disconnected to get shroud off? Line is acting like a "swing", whole shroud is resting on it.....hmm. almost seems like it's gotta disco...any one this mornin?

Thank you guys from your help in "Dumbfounded", was a big help. Happy Halloween all. I'm now dropping fuel tank, replacing fuel pump, maf sensor and throttle body sensor.....pop will do sensors, I'll be the monkey underneath lol. Any pointers on dropping tank would be nice. Thank u all for your patience, time and help(NovaPath,Rebelord,Pathmaker) and who ever else helped on the topic.....

Gmornin guys. Happy Halloween. Well, I got a Hanes manual, a new fuel pump, maf sensor and throttle body sensor.....it's 730am, about to get back on it. Any tips on droppn fuel tank would be great, pops gunna do sensors.

Thanks fellas! I'll look up FSM and study(ugh) lol.....at work now, every day's a holiday eh!

All of you have mentioned an air idler valve.....I think I need to look at this, and the p0505 code we pulled also suggests idle malfunction. This project has nickel and dimed me, and pocket feels it. Hope this ends soon. Thank you all for helping me in this with insight and direction....forgive me if I don't respond directly to questions, or in a timely manner.

FSM? "Fail Safe Manual"??? Just a guess....