noquarter89

Where can I buy generic connectors at? I didn't see them at the parts stores in town and I'm not sure where to search online.

Fortunately the corrosion wasn't too bad and I got it all off with a wire brush.

Ok thanks for the tips. I'll clean it up and hopefully it won't corrode again. Yea it was the only pin that was corroded. I thought that was strange too. I'm still trying to solve a no start. Battery, alternator, starter are new and tested when bought. Spark plugs, wires, cap, rotor and ignition coil are all new. I rewired all the corroded connectors I could find, which was quite a few. The truck turns over but won't start. When I pull the ignition cable off the distributor and ground it to the frame I get no spark when I try to start the truck. I get the correct resistance on the primary ignition circuit but no reading on the secondary. I'm thinking that the ignition coil I bought might be a dud or the ICM died.

I found this while digging through my harness for any bad connections. It's the largest connector on the ECU. The one pin on the bottom row, third from the left is corroded. The clip inside the harness connector going to it is also corroded. I looked in the Haynes and on here and couldn't find a diagram to identify which pin this is. The wire for it is black with a blue stripe. Does anyone know what this is for and what would be the best way to change out the pin and the clip inside the harness connector?.

Im finding harness connectors that are needing replaced. Rockauto and elsewhere sell connectors for specific part but where can I buy just generic connectors like these?

After repairing the alternator harness connector the truck still will not start. I measured (per Haynes) the resistance in the primary ignition circuit and it was within spec. When I measured the resistance on the secondary circuit it wouldn't give a reading. The Haynes says the the secondary circuit consists of cap, rotor, spark plugs and wires, the ignition lead from the coil to the distributor and the secondary windings of the ignition coil. The cap, rotor, plugs and wires, and coil are all new. I'm stumped where to look next. Is the "secondary windings of the ignition coil" the book mentions, the ICM that is bracketed with the coil?

Yep, two large white wires. I followed them and they go to the alternator. I'll get them replace and hopefully be back on the road. Thanks for the help king.

It was plugged in when I found it. The pic doesn't show it too well but the connections and corroded and I don't think I can reconnect it without it crumbling apart. Do you know what connector that is? One end runs by itself past the radiator and connects to the harness on the passenger side fender. The other end is bundled with the two that are still connected and they go along the driver side of the block.

I checked the single wire and it's connector and they were fine. I started checking all the connectors around the ignition coil and distributor and found this. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Ok, IC wouldn't spark. Put new IC in and still no spark. How do I test the power transistor/ignition control module? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Ok thanks. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I replaced both temperature sensors and the connectors for each. I ran the codes again and nothing came up, all clear. Truck still wouldn't start. New cap, rotor and plugs and still no start. How can I test to see if the ignition coil is good? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Oops, didn't mean to hit send that fast. I'll get out the multimeter and check everything this afternoon. Thanks for the help King. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Alrught. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Ok. I have a multimeter but electrical isn't my strong suit. Where should I place the leads to measure for the resistance? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

One of the wires for the connector going to the CHTS is missing some insulation. The wire is still connected though. I'm assuming that's my culprit. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

My pathy would not start the other day. It turns over and partially combusts but it won't start. I ran the codes and code 13 ( engine temperature sensor ) was the only code that showed up. I replaced the sensor and the connector to it and it made no difference. The battery and starter are only a couple days old and both were tested at purchase. I have a 90 amp maxima alternator that's only 3 months old and it was tested at purchase too. I checked all the fuses and fusible links are they are fine too. I'm not sure where to go from here. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Alright. Thank you. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Alright, thanks for the info. I'll just get'em at the parts store. Are the fronts different to replace? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

A few of my lugs have threads that are too destroyed to put a nut on. Rockauto has the studs for cheap. How difficult is it to replace them? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

This thread is making miss my Z. Cruising along the beach with the t-tops off. I loved the body style for the 87-89.

I had a 87 300zx before my pathfinder. Black on black with reflective tint, you couldn't see into it standing next to it. I loved it. Damn Florida weather rotted the frame more than I wanted to repair so I parted it.

Thank you nunya. I did try the search but like I said I can't just search for 86.5-89 wd21's. My phone won't cooperate.

I used the search but my phone won't search just the WD21 section.

I'll be going to the junkyard soon and I need a new set of wheels. What other Nissan wheels will fit? Will any JGC wheels fit?