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What is an EGT? I am sure I can figure it out but I will ask you...how will I know what it is running ie 14.1 or 12.5:1 ? Will the safc tell me? I am installing today--wish me luck...seems straight forward..LoL that shhh is never straight and def. not forward though huh? :laugh:

EGT = Exhaust Gas Temperature

 

The SAFC might tell you, however to be sure you need to have an A/F Ratio Gauge. Hold off on getting one until you know whether the SAFC will tell you or not.

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Ok Peeps,

 

Where on earth can I find a pin-out guide for the ECU? The one in the haynes manual is good, but when it says Knock sensor is white....there are 5 whites just on 1 half of the ecu harness, and its corresponding colors (in the book) do not match!

 

I can't believe that I googled this and it is no where! Please give a hand!

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Do you have the Tech manual for the R50? I have it as a pdf....but the engine control section is 9.8MB's alone! I can trie and zip it and e-mail it to you. It shows every pin on the ECM (ECCS Control Module)...is this what your looking for? :blink:

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O-K dudes, so far advancing the timing has helped....you must do it the Haynes way or at least put your truck into self diag mode first...I have set my timing at about 10-11 degrees BTDC and it has responded well, though I still have a code to pull.

 

It may be the EVAP connector again, or the reported "lean left bank". Anyone with knowledge about this chime in..injectors, lifters, head rebuilding ETC. I am looking to finish this on a good note so that all will have at least a guide to go by with these upgrades!

 

:clap::clap::clap: Three Cheers to KMGAR99 for sending out to me a PDF copy of the ECU pinouts for the S-AFC install (still pending) :clap::clap::clap:

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As I said in my PM, if you're running lean, you're not getting the requisite amount of fuel for the supplied amount of air.

 

There are several ways to fix this...assuming both banks are timed perfectly.

 

In any event, you need more fuel to the engine...get a different fuel pressure regulator that allows higher line pressures, and subsequently more volume of fuel to pass through (you'll probably need to upgrade the fuel pump as well.)

 

Larger volume fuel injectors.

 

Here's what I did in my 2.1L 16V VW motor after I put in the 272/260 .424" lift Shrick cams.

 

Passat W8 3.5 bar Fuel pump & pressure regulator

Corrado VR6 48 lb injectors. (well, 4 of them anyhow)

I don't remember who made it, but its an aftermarket Honda Civic 1.8L Vtec fuel rail.

 

It's also running stand-alone, and it has a stroker crankshaft, hence the 2.1L.

 

This motor pulls HARD.

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EGT = Exhaust Gas Temperature

 

The SAFC might tell you, however to be sure you need to have an A/F Ratio Gauge. Hold off on getting one until you know whether the SAFC will tell you or not.

The SAFC wont tell him shiz unless he's got a wideband O2 in at least one manifold. At least take the truck to a reputable dyno tuning shop with experience in SAFC's. The base maps will only get you so far, and with your pre-existing lean condition, they may do more harm..

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You shouldn't need to mess with your injectors or your fuel pressure. The pathy injectors are large enough and the safc should let you richen it up. Pull some plugs on the lean bank and post up some pics. The bank may not be lean at all and you could have an O2 sensor screwing up. There are no base maps in the safc. Base is no correction whatsoever. You can run it fine like that. Try richening up a few of the lower rpm points around idle up 5-10%. That should smooth out your idle. From there you're going to need a wideband to see what's really going on. Richening up is pretty safe so you can mess around with the whole rpm range. You have to get into the +25% range to wash out rings. I wouldn't lean at all without having a wideband hooked up and watching the knock meter.

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The truck runs like a bat out of haydes, idles terrible (still after a new knock sensor), clacks like train cars passing by

 

Hi 98silver,

 

Do you have the specs on the cams you installed? The duration may be part of the problem more duration = less vacuum.

 

The other thing is that it clacks like a train passing by this is more than likely due to the grind of the cam. I was talking to my cam specialist today as we are trying to nut out a decent spec for my cams. you have to have the rocker bars machined so the lifters sit a little lower. What I would say that is happening to yours is the lifter is losing contact with the cam and as the cam comes back around it gives it a decent hit therefore making the clacking sound.

 

I think that there is 2 different types of heads for our beloved pathy's one has cam blocks which need machining and the other you have to machine the rocker bars.

 

Once we have worked out our cam specs or you want a cam ground to your specs I can get them done here and freighted to your door for alot less than $500us

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Hi 98silver,

 

Do you have the specs on the cams you installed? The duration may be part of the problem more duration = less vacuum.

 

The other thing is that it clacks like a train passing by this is more than likely due to the grind of the cam. I was talking to my cam specialist today as we are trying to nut out a decent spec for my cams. you have to have the rocker bars machined so the lifters sit a little lower. What I would say that is happening to yours is the lifter is losing contact with the cam and as the cam comes back around it gives it a decent hit therefore making the clacking sound.

 

I think that there is 2 different types of heads for our beloved pathy's one has cam blocks which need machining and the other you have to machine the rocker bars.

 

Once we have worked out our cam specs or you want a cam ground to your specs I can get them done here and freighted to your door for alot less than $500us

The s1 cam isn't a regrind though. Wouldn't the machining be required on a head usng a reground cam?

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I agree totally, the question is...is there damage associated with this phenom.? At higher RPM's it is quiet, I guess that the lifters are floating between lobes a little?

 

SAFC is now installed, I will tune a little tonight or tomorrow...and I have all pics of the ecu and what wires you need to make it run...thanks to KMGAR and Turbopath, I have offcially conqered this!!

 

Tuning will be slight be me and when money becomes liquid again I am going to pay a shop to DYNO me....more details tomorrow!!

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  • 2 weeks later...

NOW...I have installed the Air/Fuel Controller and just yesturday put the wideband O2 sensor with meter in and I have discovered that the truck has lost its mind!!!

 

With the AFC you can set 1% incrememnt for every 200rpms of fuel/air and 1 minute the truck enjoys what it is getting then it throws a curve and says way way lean...all at the same RPM within 15sec. I have a feeling that the EGR is not functioning properly....as I had a Saturn that had a funny accelerastion and the same types of hesitation....this would add up to a CRAZY righ lean aspect.....soooo

 

I guess that the path will get a new EGR in the next week...dag they are expensive (after spending $500 on electronics). I am not too upset though since I spent $300 to get the truck on DIAG at my local stealer!!

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  • 3 weeks later...

After many moons of messing with the truck it is coming to its peak!

 

SO FAR THIS YEAR

 

 

MANTAINENCE

 

Timing belt

Tensioner

Water pump

Hoses (all including bypass)

Accessory Belts

New Vacuum Hoses

Cleaned EGR port and valve

Valve Cover Gaskets

Knock Sensor

EVAP Canister

EVAP Vent valve

Plugs

Wires

Cap Rotor

Distributor

Tranny and T Case Fluid (second time in 1 year--gunk removal with Lucas)

 

 

UPGRADES

 

125a Alty from Nissan Quest

265/75/16 AT REVO's

Completion of Fender Flares

PIAA 520 SMR's------Now on bumper like Vengeful's--------Westin Bull bar for sale

OEM Hitch ---------------------------------------------------WAAG rear bumper for sale

JWT S1 Cams

APEXI SAFC II

AEM Wideband A/F Meter

3 12" Infinity Perfects in small sealed box

1" Memphis Studio Tweets in the front doors

Blue Transparent Gauges

 

and now the newest edition and hopefull is as well accepted as the other mods...

 

A set of NISMO light weight 16x7 rims!! Hope the tires don't look goofy since my NEEPERS are 16x8!!?

 

 

 

and yes I still have a slight missfire which I am leaning to a vac leak in the intake manifold!

post-7-1158069736.jpg

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What I didn't like about your truck were your old chrome wheels, they looked like hell. Now you just went from gross chrome wheels to the most beautiful and functional wheels you can put on the Pathfinder.

 

BIG thumbs up!

 

EDIT: The tires won't look bad at all...Just like any other 265 or whatever. A few Xterras have those wheels with the factory General Crapper 265/70-16s.

Edited by OR99.5Speed
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Here is the final guys!

 

The latest and greatest is that I have put NGK Iridiums in and they changed nothing as of yet. I called a private shop with an ASE Mastertech and he had me bring the rig over to listen and tells me that she is shot!

 

Kdding....his theory is that the lifter plenum needs raised by .020" to keep the lifter from bottoming out and perhaps buff some lobes on the cams. The rocker arms are too tight and this is making them bottom out the lifter and when the engine is hot, the valves are longer making this a "sticky" valve condition....so I get missfire. The reality is that with this shim stock he is talking about the truck will breathe better yet and produce more power and as long as no real dmage has occured will be more quiet than I have heard it run since I have had it (since the other lifters had a little chatter on them at 97K miles).

 

This man says he can accomplish in 1 day and will also remove my LSV from the diff adjusting rear brakes accordingly to get my rear stopping power back...the cost??? Approx $400

 

He also higly reccommends that we all pull the hose from the EGR and plug the BPT vac hose so that this piece of shhhh will not lean out all of our motors. After he did this to mine the AF mixture on my meter reads much more stable and does not fluctuate nearly as wild as it did...so far this mechanic has impressed me!

 

Wish me luck!!

 

 

..........incidently my rims came in and I hate them! They are the bronze that I feard they would be! Now I must try to sell these rims! I test fit a rim on the truck with no tire and the bronze is just no good...should I have them painted or try to get seperate rims?

Edited by 98silverpathy
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Kmgar99---At this point---YES! I would like the silver ones...my fam and friends are saying awww just pain 'em....no way these rims are too expensive to re paint and try to explain I would just re-ebay them advertising them right and try to raise funds to get the right shh!!

 

....do you have silver ones?? :huh:

 

The BS on the rims is 39mm---I just don't know what my Neepers are (BS)

 

Kmarg99--did I already ask if you have those?? :o I would love to get this straightened out!

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I'm assuming the offset is 39mm, not the BS. I'm going to do a little research and see what it will take to fit them. :beer:

 

I'm not too familiar with offset specs, but according to my calculations it should have 5.5" of BS? :unsure:

Edited by tmorgan4
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Kmgar99---At this point---YES! I would like the silver ones...my fam and friends are saying awww just pain 'em....no way these rims are too expensive to re paint and try to explain I would just re-ebay them advertising them right and try to raise funds to get the right shh!!

 

....do you have silver ones?? :huh:

 

The BS on the rims is 39mm---I just don't know what my Neepers are (BS)

 

Kmarg99--did I already ask if you have those?? :o I would love to get this straightened out!

Sorry man, i had a set on my wifes Altima, but they went with it at trade in for her new Volvo S40

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