Jump to content

Changing auto tranny fluid?


BobbyD
 Share

Recommended Posts

Grayfox, are you sure it's not just a rough idle? That would be my first guess, and trans flush was just coincidental.

 

I have used these guys for coolers with good success:

http://www.makcotransmissionparts.com/coolers.html

 

Definitely a rough idle lol. But the whole truck feels like a vibrator. Idk if thats good... lol

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Definitely a rough idle lol. But the whole truck feels like a vibrator. Idk if thats good... lol

 

I would check the exhaust mounts.

 

Mine was making this grinding sound when coming to a stop. I thought for sure it was my torque converter, after further inspection I found all my mounts holding the exhaust up had broken and most of it was just laying on the frame.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I just changed my fluid/filter and flushed the torque converter thanks to the suggestions on this thread, and it has made a ton of difference. No more clunking between gears, and the transmission is much more energetic than it used to be. At 170,000 miles it is shifting like the day it was made. I couldn't be more pleased, it was a perfect Sunday afternoon.

 

I'd never done it before, so in preparation I watched this guy's youtube video:

 

He has a bunch of good videos, he taught me how to replace ball joints, tie rod ends, distributor, and now tranny filter/gasket. Definitely worth a looksee. Also, I noticed that while at first he just seems like an ordinary guy, once you have been watching for a while it becomes obvious that he in fact has a funny accent.

 

Thanks NPORA. And thank you, funny accent dude.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 7 months later...

With regards only to street/highway driving (I only have a "lowly" 2WD XE):

 

Sorry, I have issues with any claim that the torque converter will not lock up unless you disable the O/D. It definitely locks up, only over some factory-set speed and only after the tranny warms up. On cold Indiana winter days taking the Interstate into town, mine will hang out in O/D "float" until about 3 miles in where it will feel like it shifted into "5th" gear... this is the torque converter locking up once it has warmed to the correct operating temperature. In the summer, TC lockup comes in about a mile after getting on the highway.

 

When towing or going through the hills, more gas pedal is required and, therefore, the TC will unlock on you if you ask for more power than what it is willing to give without unlocking the TC. Kicking off the O/D keeps it in 3rd gear and more in the power band of the engine meaning it is able to keep up with demand without unlocking the TC (and, therefore, raising the engine speed more towards the power band).

 

I do note that letting off the gas then getting back on temporarily unlocks the TC until you settle your foot down. Haven't ever messed around a lot with "Sport" mode at highway speeds to know if the TC locks up earlier or stays locked under similar circumstances.

 

In response to "why doesn't it just always stay locked", one of the desirable qualities of an auto tranny is smoothness in shifting, and an unlocked TC acts to smooth gear transitions. Personally, I wish I had a 5-speed manual, seconded by wishing the TC would lock up at anything above 10mph except briefly for gear changes. Had a malfunctioning Buick that did that, acted a lot like a manual.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

DANGER!!!!!! DANGER!!!!!! DANGER!!!!!!

 

I'm on my THIRD automatic transmission, and have finally figured out how to make 'em last (@ $3,200+ a pop all said and done, I better have!).

 

1st, I FLUSH the transmission every 15,000 miles. This doesn't use detergent, but extra tranny fluid. Almost half of the old fluid is left in the torque converter upon tranny fluid draining, so there is A LOT of old, used, dark (ie non-lubricating) fluid left after a drain.

 

I buy 12 quarts of Red Line High Temp ATF, and take it down to my Nissan dealer. He puts it in his tranny flusher at the END of the flush, and runs it ALL IN to fill the tranny AND torque converter with ATF.

 

The killer of WD21 auto trans is HEAT, and the breakdown of tranny fluid due to that heat. You should do two other pro-active things to combat the heat problem.

 

1) Install a large (20,000+ GVRW) transmission cooler in front of the radiator. I run one inline with the factory cooler that is built into the Nissan radiator.

 

2) DO NOT use overdrive if you are

a) driving at 35 mph or less anywhere,

B) driving at 40 mph or less on a hilly road,

c) towing ANYTHING, no matter how fast you are going (this keeps the torque converter locked, lowering heat tremendously).

 

Also, if you must replace your AT, buy a remanufactured transmission, because they are built to a much higher standard than a new or rebuilt unit. Remans are available at your dealer or good transmission shops.

 

STOP THE LIES!!! :-) The tranny fluid will be very dark after 15,000 miles...DO NOT wait for 30,000 miles like the manual says. When I bought my first extended warranty for the Pathfinder, part of the requirements for warranty satisfaction were oil changes at 3000 miles and auto trans fluid changes at 15,000 miles. Boy was I suprised at how dark the fluid was after just 15,000 miles.

 

Sorry for the long post, but this is a matter near and dear to my heart. I've got well over 120,000 miles on my current tranny (after going through the first two at around 60,000 miles each).

so if we drain the fulid and refill, do you change the filter also, silly question, but ive never changed the tranny fluid in any of the 3 pathfinders ive owned.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 4 weeks later...

Just got done flushing my 91 pathfinder. First thing i noticed was the shift from 1-2 was so much smoother. Second thing i noticed was the transmission was much smoother.

Third thing i noticed was the shift from park to drive has about 50% less clunk when going into gear.

I will perform flush #2 after a few 100KM.

 

If you have not flushed your trans and are thinking about, DO IT!

 

I simply dropped the plug on the drain pan,measured the amount that came out of the transmission. and filled it accordingly.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

Just got done flushing my 91 pathfinder. First thing i noticed was the shift from 1-2 was so much smoother. Second thing i noticed was the transmission was much smoother.

Third thing i noticed was the shift from park to drive has about 50% less clunk when going into gear.

I will perform flush #2 after a few 100KM.

 

If you have not flushed your trans and are thinking about, DO IT!

 

I simply dropped the plug on the drain pan,measured the amount that came out of the transmission. and filled it accordingly.

How much came out?? Just trying to establish a baseline for drain/refill VS stock capacity for a percentage of fluid change...

 

Hi Eveyone,Just wondering what you folks prefer to run for fluid in your automatics?

I've been told by a Nissan/Infinity mechanic that Dextron3/Mercon is perfectly suitable but might need to be replaced slightly more often than compared to the Nissan M(D?) fluid due to quicker break down at higher temperatures. If you have a tranny cooler installed (highly recommended) this may be a non issue and the benefit of Dextron3/Mercon is a lower cost and far greater availability.

 

B

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 5 months later...

I firmly believe that if you change the fluid as per the manual time frame, that it will be fine. The stock cooler is prone to clogging up, but my mechanic and another family friend (who is a mechanic/hydraulics engineer) say that it shouldn't clog up unless someone along the line, never changed the tranny fluid when they owned it. They also said it couldn't hurt, and recommend an external cooler AND filter if you tow a lot or run it on trails.

 

As far as my limited experience goes, the 93 has 340,000kms on it, with the original tranny and stock cooler. Still works great. No towing or wheeling ever. The 95 however had 220k when I got it, the fluid was brown, smelled burnt, and intermittently had no reverse. Clearly not maintained like my 93. I have had it flushed twice since, and I haven't had any further problems. When I removed the rad for the tbelt change, I flushed out the cooler just to be on the safe side, it was free flowing...

 

 

 

I have a '94 and I am looking at the maintenance schedule in the owner's manual and it does not even mention changing the auto transmission fluid. I believe the '95 owner's manual is the same as the '94. Where does it mention to change the auto transmission fluid? What line on the maintenance schedule in the back does it say to change it?

 

If anyone else knows, that would be great.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have a '94 and I am looking at the maintenance schedule in the owner's manual and it does not even mention changing the auto transmission fluid. I believe the '95 owner's manual is the same as the '94. Where does it mention to change the auto transmission fluid? What line on the maintenance schedule in the back does it say to change it?

 

If anyone else knows, that would be great.

 

From my 91 manual (should be same?), on schedule 1 (which is the heavy duty one, which I think basically everyone should follow), it says to inspect the transmission fluid every 24000 km (15000 miles). Then there is a note below that says "If towing a trailer, using a camper or a car-top carrier, or driving on rough or muddy roads, change (not just inspect) oil at every 30,000 miles (48,000 km) [plus some more stuff about the LSD]."

 

Edit, mine is on the second page, 3rd line from the top, but that could easily be different for you manual. The line is for "Manual and automatic transmission, transfer & differential gear oil."

Edited by sewebster
Link to comment
Share on other sites

From my 91 manual (should be same?), on schedule 1 (which is the heavy duty one, which I think basically everyone should follow), it says to inspect the transmission fluid every 24000 km (15000 miles). Then there is a note below that says "If towing a trailer, using a camper or a car-top carrier, or driving on rough or muddy roads, change (not just inspect) oil at every 30,000 miles (48,000 km) [plus some more stuff about the LSD]."

 

Edit, mine is on the second page, 3rd line from the top, but that could easily be different for you manual. The line is for "Manual and automatic transmission, transfer & differential gear oil."

 

 

Found it. Thank you.

 

I thought ......

 

Manual and automatic transmission, transfer & differential gear oil.

 

 

...referred to transfer and differential gear oil in both manual and automatic transmissions as opposed to tranny fluid.

 

In the legend at the top of the page where it says means "Inspect" Next to it it says "Replace if necessary" or something like that. I wish Nissan was more clear when replacement is necessary.

Edited by jwblue
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 4 weeks later...

One stupid question.....I found the drain plug on a/t but where is the plug to fill?? Or is there one? Some automatics fills on dipstick hole is it same on pathfinder/terrano? And it´s 1991 ym

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

More stupid Q´s.... terrano a.k.a Pathfinder automatic oil drain plug gasket is it some kind of spesial model or what??? It drops oil on drainplug even thow i change the casket the new one copper. I dont dare to tighten it anymore so there must be some other solution. And in here i cannot find original drainplug casket anywhere...Help!!!!!

Edited by Castrol
Link to comment
Share on other sites

More stupid Q´s.... terrana automatic oil drain plug gasket is it some kind of spesial model or what??? It drops oil on drainplug even thow i change the casket the new one copper. I dont dare to tighten it anymore so there must be some other solution. And in here i cannot find original drainplug casket anywhere...Help!!!!!

 

Not familiar with that vehicle but you could try an aluminum crush washer...replace at every oil change. They do not require as high a torque to crush to a good seal as copper. Repeated over-torquing your drain plug will damage the threads and they will leak.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have a couple jugs of Mobil Super multi-vehicle ATF synthetic blend in the garage. It states on the jugs that its a suitable replacement for Nissan matic D,J or K. Is the Nissan matic fluid a Dexron? Can i run this Mobil in my 91? Thanks for your time.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

I have a 95 WD21 and her tranny heats up as well. I only drive her on "2" cause when I put her on "Drive" she doesn't shift into third. Is there any steps I should take before I can actually change the trans.?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 5 months later...

so if we drain the fulid and refill, do you change the filter also, silly question, but ive never changed the tranny fluid in any of the 3 pathfinders ive owned.

 

Hello, did you find out about your filter? I have a '93 SE and have heard conflicting stories about it being a filter or just a screen? If it is a screen do you rinse it? Thanks

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hello, did you find out about your filter? I have a '93 SE and have heard conflicting stories about it being a filter or just a screen? If it is a screen do you rinse it? Thanks

 

The factory "filter" is pretty much a screen, so as a filter its pretty much useless at stopping all but the largest pieces. Its not something you can just rinse out. It just should be replaced. They are not expensive. Install a magnefine inline filter in the cooler lines once you are done. They are supposed to be good for 30k miles, and actually filter the fluid.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have a couple jugs of Mobil Super multi-vehicle ATF synthetic blend in the garage. It states on the jugs that its a suitable replacement for Nissan matic D,J or K. Is the Nissan matic fluid a Dexron? Can i run this Mobil in my 91? Thanks for your time.

Yes, I believe the factory fill was J type. Dex III or Dex Iv (VI?) can both be used. Ones a syn though.

 

The factory "filter" is pretty much a screen, so as a filter its pretty much useless at stopping all but the largest pieces. Its not something you can just rinse out. It just should be replaced. They are not expensive. Install a magnefine inline filter in the cooler lines once you are done. They are supposed to be good for 30k miles, and actually filter the fluid.

 

Or just buy a non-factory pan filter.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share

×
×
  • Create New...