Slick Posted January 10, 2006 Share Posted January 10, 2006 (edited) sssh I have been having this issue (losing coolant from no visible place) and don't know where it's going to.. so! if yer pathy runs fine but stuff like.. you're temp will suddenly rise to over heating then drop all of a sudden.. or one minute you're rad cap has pressure and the next you can take it off with the motor hot hot hot without so much as a pssst.. then read on! I have been losing coolant "internally" for about 2-3 months now. Uses a lot of water/coolant every week or 2 but no visible signs of a leak. I had blown my upper rad hose about 5 months ago.... my lower hose is good. I would check for drips...dampness and any signs of leakage under the hood, with no success, so i assumed, being as i have had the "gas in the oil' smell and white/blueish smoke with the tail pipe drip deal going on that i was losing coolant internally... well... here's the kicker. put a brand new bottle of bars leak in the rad Sunday night, as i knew dave n i had a loong drive to UC Davis for his pre-op appt.. so i figured i'd put the bars leak in then top up with water at his house before we left in the am. on the 3 mile drive to his house my temp gauges shot from cold to way past hot.... then dropped back down... i thought maybe because the abrs leak hadn't dissolved all the way and my rad cap was hard to put on.. anyhoo.. we hit the road.. i am puttin along at 65mph in traffic.. when all of a sudden i see this plume of what i thought was smoke behind me (wow.. i have never seen cars scatter like that!!) i pulled over.. popped the hood and coolant, bars leak and water EVERYWHERE. It was UGLY. Checked the hoses.. nothin. checked the rad cap. nothin. put what water i did have in the truck and drove her off the freeway to a safer AAA pick up point. get her home.. swear..cuss...call UC Davis... go outside.. snoop around.. decide i have to begin pulling things off as i can't see the h2o pump to check it.. 10 mins.. i have rad, fan, belts off.. pop the t-belt cover.. snoop around.. t-belt is dry as a bone while everything else got DRENCHED. :bow: thank god for small mercies. Did i aslo mention it was the start of my 'weekend"? mm.. yeah. so i get to pokin n proddin around.. and lo and behold i peer behind the back t-belt cover plate.. next to the sitributor cap cover.. and there is a little bitty hose you can barely see.... with the BIGGEST split i have ever seen in any hose! (see pic below) Welp.. almost impossible to get to.. i begin tugging and pulling.. dave comes over to add some extra muscle to the extraction.. we get it off and trot down to krangens. they don't have a hose that matches exactly, but one very close.. just has to be cut to size. ok.. i cut it. left it a tad long just in case. DON'T. got the top on ok.. but the bottom wouldn't stay in because it was too long.. dave beat it into submission twice.. but it popped off before we could get the clamps tight.. he finally ended up killing it with a screwdriver he was using to coax it into place. Today we go down and get yet another $6 hose.. and try again. I will take more pics today when the frost is gone and the sun comes up a bit more and dave arrives with reinforcements.... -alcohol- Edited January 10, 2006 by Slick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andreus009 Posted January 10, 2006 Share Posted January 10, 2006 Looks familiar. I think I've done that one too, but my split wasn't as big so I was still spraying water when I had temperature issues. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
k9sar Posted January 10, 2006 Share Posted January 10, 2006 I still can't figure out what hose that is slick. You should only have an upper and lower hose of that size. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
94extreme Posted January 10, 2006 Share Posted January 10, 2006 yeah, i pic of the engine bay with an arrow surely would be helpful... glad you found the problem!!! mz Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slick Posted January 10, 2006 Author Share Posted January 10, 2006 (edited) yeah, i pic of the engine bay with an arrow surely would be helpful... glad you found the problem!!! mz yes yes.. i am heading out there inna second.. dave is up and on his way over with another new hose... any other pics anyone wants? as for the hose locale.. i will take pics.. but if you look down the side of yer dist cap cover where the wires come out.. look DOWN... in that little gap between the fuel rail and the back of the t-belt cover.... you can barely see it.. i spotted it because after i got all the covers/betls off i was checking the t-stat housing and floowed it up.... that's when i saw the gaping hole in that hose.. i never knew it was there either! they call it an upper bypass hose... mm K whatever..... lol ok. the hose itself is no longer than 6" total (that's with a bend in it) Here's where it lives at the top... Edited January 10, 2006 by Slick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slick Posted January 10, 2006 Author Share Posted January 10, 2006 and here's where it lives at the bottom.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slick Posted January 10, 2006 Author Share Posted January 10, 2006 and here's just another top view of where it goes... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slick Posted January 10, 2006 Author Share Posted January 10, 2006 and here she sits.. waiting for reinforcements to arrive with hoses.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Newton Posted January 10, 2006 Share Posted January 10, 2006 What a nasty little place for a leak. Glad ya got 'er solved Slick. Sometimes the smallest jobs, can be the biggest pain in the a...sphalt. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest PointGiven 2000 Posted January 10, 2006 Share Posted January 10, 2006 Sweet post !!! I just noticed leakage on mine couple days ago and couldnt find the source. Will check mine tommorrow when it warms up to 45 here in Chicago area. mmmm... wondering if i should so the T-belt and water pump also... bought my 93 XE in Utah 13 mo's ago and the dealer didnt have info of when it was done last. I just turned 160K Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon Posted January 10, 2006 Share Posted January 10, 2006 If you don't know. Do it. Cheap insurance. A broken T-Belt will ruin your engine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
94extreme Posted January 10, 2006 Share Posted January 10, 2006 nice job slick! thanks for the info.. something to look into here soon. thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slick Posted January 10, 2006 Author Share Posted January 10, 2006 glad i could be of service. Dave helped a lot in getting the sucker on and tightening the belts. I am anal so i checked while he tightened.. *note to MZ.. don't even think about it!!* lmao sly it really was a PITA.. but once we got the hose cut down to size just right all was good. Dave still trips on the water pressure these motors have.. hehehe.. all is good.. now to fix my ORIGINAL problem of the white smoke n stinky exhaust.. oil doesn't seem to smell so bad of gas.. i have other engine bay pics of the sitcheeation.. so if anyone needs "open" pics of the cam sprockets or anything.. i have them. ALSO!!!!!! Nissan built the motor AROUND this little hose... so I suggest once you DO get those nasty little clips off... use hose clamps instead.... -bounce- wooHoooooo...all done Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
k9sar Posted January 11, 2006 Share Posted January 11, 2006 you should try tightening the clamps on that little fuel hose that connects the injector rails under teh intake manifold when the heads of the screws are 90 degrees from where you can get a screwdriver Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mws Posted January 11, 2006 Share Posted January 11, 2006 Did the generic hose work ok? I flash back to my 65 Ford small block. It had a bypass hose from block to water pump. I tried to use universal straight hose, but it kept kinking. Had to use a preformed hose to get it to flow right. I'm thinking I'll add that to the T-Belt change as a PM item. The 19 year old hose in my baby can't be feeling too chipper. belt, water pump, upper and lower hoses, bypass hose, what else? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slick Posted January 11, 2006 Author Share Posted January 11, 2006 Did the generic hose work ok? I flash back to my 65 Ford small block. It had a bypass hose from block to water pump. I tried to use universal straight hose, but it kept kinking. Had to use a preformed hose to get it to flow right. I'm thinking I'll add that to the T-Belt change as a PM item. The 19 year old hose in my baby can't be feeling too chipper. belt, water pump, upper and lower hoses, bypass hose, what else? the hose i got from krangen had the same bend in it, just one end was a bit longer.. so it has to be cut each end to make the right shape/size/fit. it doesn't kink but being new it was very stiff.. hence the vaseline at each end.. with such a small amount of space to work in.. every little bit helps as for when you do your t-belt.. yeah.. might as well get this little critter outta the way, h2o pump, t-stat, might as well change all your belts, check your fan clutch/fan.... check your radiator and a/c cooler thoroughly... and just make sure everything looks tip top B is going to place a write up i did about this in the pinned garage section -study- Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Animal Posted January 11, 2006 Share Posted January 11, 2006 the hose i got from krangen had the same bend in it, just one end was a bit longer.. so it has to be cut each end to make the right shape/size/fit. it doesn't kink but being new it was very stiff.. hence the vaseline at each end.. with such a small amount of space to work in.. every little bit helps as for when you do your t-belt.. yeah.. might as well get this little critter outta the way, h2o pump, t-stat, might as well change all your belts, check your fan clutch/fan.... check your radiator and a/c cooler thoroughly... and just make sure everything looks tip top B is going to place a write up i did about this in the pinned garage section -study- That little hose is the bypass hose; the one others have recommended changing when doing the t-belt. The correct hose is available - I got mine from thepartsbin.com for about the same price. Here's the line form the invoice: 1992 Nissan Dayco Bypass Hose Price: $5.61 Qty: 1 Part #: DY70241 I have a similar story, but on my son-in-law's 88 Mustang 5.0. After rebuilding the engine, he had similar issues; runs good, overheats then cools, looses coolant. Unfortunately, after replacing all external cooling components, we did a cylinder leak down test and discovered a head gasket was leaking. Apparently the "professional" who he let do much of the internal engine work, missed a bolt on the final head torque. So, we'll be pulling the engine again - he wants to check all the bearing cap torques as well. So Slick, it could have been worse for you. But then, we have Nissans. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slick Posted January 11, 2006 Author Share Posted January 11, 2006 cool info to know animal! thanks for the p/n. yeah.. i was pushed for time (like.. 24hrs to fix it) so kragen was a godsend. it was the same hose just semi universal so i had to trim a tad off of it to get the right length. sorry to hear about the stang troubles! i still have to fix my original problem of white smoke stinky exhaust fuel smell.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Animal Posted January 11, 2006 Share Posted January 11, 2006 Nothing wrong with making a part fit in a pinch. If your coolant level still drops, you might want to do a leak down - it would at least eliminate the heads. Next suspect would be the intake plenum gasket (assuming Nissan ports coolant through it as most do). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slick Posted January 11, 2006 Author Share Posted January 11, 2006 Nothing wrong with making a part fit in a pinch. If your coolant level still drops, you might want to do a leak down - it would at least eliminate the heads. Next suspect would be the intake plenum gasket (assuming Nissan ports coolant through it as most do). i think i fixed the coolant issue... i put a brand new intake plentum gasket on when i pulled the motor last year... i may be looking at a head gasket on the way out..... imma see how much of my issues this new hose fixes.. it's early days yet (just did it yesterday).... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
headpeace Posted February 21, 2007 Share Posted February 21, 2007 is it possible to replace the UBH without removing the tbelt cover? It looks dam near impossible Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ajspath Posted February 20, 2008 Share Posted February 20, 2008 wow, this forum is extremely helpful! hey slick, i'm a relatively new to this stuff (actually, i only know basic preventative maintanance). how does one begin to replace the bypass hose? for example, does it require that the whole engine block needs to be taken out? i made a post (with pics) about this just today and the repliers told me about you and this thread... the thread is here: http://npora.ipbhost.com//index.php?showto...mp;#entry288780 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slick Posted February 20, 2008 Author Share Posted February 20, 2008 (edited) no need to remove anything but the hose, and the 2 sensors and ground wires in front of it. if you have a friend with SMALL hands, that's helpful! patience and proper hose clamps are key. also, make sure oyu put the hose on the RIGHT WAY.. yes, I found there IS a right n wrong way it will go on easiest lol... I found out the HARD way lmao.... ah well, i kow now! Edited February 20, 2008 by Slick 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ajspath Posted February 20, 2008 Share Posted February 20, 2008 no need to remove anything but the hose, and the 2 sensors and ground wires in front of it. if you have a friend with SMALL hands, that's helpful!patience and proper hose clamps are key. also, make sure oyu put the hose on the RIGHT WAY.. yes, I found there IS a right n wrong way it will go on easiest lol... I found out the HARD way lmao.... ah well, i kow now! what exactly do i have to remove in order to get a clear view of the bypass hose like in your pictures? for example, i also noticed that your radiator fan is missing. so i don't have to take out the engine block? sorry for being such a noob. i have mechanic friends that are helping me on this. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slick Posted February 20, 2008 Author Share Posted February 20, 2008 what exactly do i have to remove in order to get a clear view of the bypass hose like in your pictures? for example, i also noticed that your radiator fan is missing. so i don't have to take out the engine block? sorry for being such a noob. i have mechanic friends that are helping me on this. oh, i took the 2nd pic when i was doing something else....... for the bypass hose i didn't take anything but the black & yellowq sensors off and the 2 ground wires....... that was IT. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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