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After Skidplates...how to change oil?!?!


02flhrci
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There are really only a few possible solutions:

1) cut a hole in the skidplate to allow access to the drain plug and filter

2) remove and replace the skidplate for every change

3) install a remote oil filter kit (not sure if there's one available though). I don't know if anyone's done it yet.

 

Short of those options, the next best thing you can do is use an oil that offers extended change intervals, such as Amsoil or other synthetics.

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D'oh! Youre the one guy I was hoping would know about these!

 

Is there any reason the one for the Xterra wouldnt fit on an R-50?

(assuming we both take the same oil filter??)

 

We have these to make draining the oil easier...

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I know that in my case (3.5 motor) to do an oil change the shop has to take off the crappy plastic splash shield anyway. Do the skidplates have that many more bolts that it is a big problem to remove every 5,000 km? :shrug:

 

I would like to know as I ma considering getting a basic skid plate myself and was not sure what kind of issue this has been for those who have one. Thanks for asking the question for me :P

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It's not really all that hard to remove them... in my case there are two skids, and they weigh a crapload more than the splash guard does. Also, I know in the case of the X, we have a few stripped bolt holes, which makes for added fun when youre trying to balance two heavy skid plates up straight and trying to get bolts in holes...

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When I was at the dealer recently I had them change my oil while I was there. The guy was able to reach through the extra gap that the Black Panther skid has, and change the oil and filter without removing the skid. Now, I didn't happen to witness this operation, however he was a fair bit larger than me, so it certainly wasn't a lack of size that made him able to do this. You might want to poke around, and see if you even need to take the skid off.

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It's not really all that hard to remove them... in my case there are two skids, and they weigh a crapload more than the splash guard does. Also, I know in the case of the X, we have a few stripped bolt holes, which makes for added fun when youre trying to balance two heavy skid plates up straight and trying to get bolts in holes...

Pezzy's hit the nail on the head. The problem is that the skidplates are HEAVY. In order to get the front skidplate off, the rear one has to be at least loosened, if not removed. These things weigh almost 80lbs combined. In fact, I used a jack when I installed the rear one just to hold it in place while I put the bolts in. I can't imagine how someone was able to change the filter without removing the skids but I will look again. BTW...I have a 2001 3.5...

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If you think the 10ga ones are heavy at 80lbs...you should try the 3/16" ones at 105lbs! :blink: That's why I just let someone else do it.

 

They're paid to do it, and if the break a bolt, they ahve to fix it. :aok:

Do you just take it to the neighborhood change 'n lube? Do they charge you more because of the skids? I also worry about some idiot using an impact wrench on those shorty front bolts and busting them right off...

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I go to a Valvoline Instant Oil Change (NEVER GO NEAR A JIFFY LUBE!!!!!). The guys there actually know about cars and can appreciate them. The one here I get out and sit down and chat with the guys while they're changing my oil. They're all cool guys. And...it only costs about $5 more than doing it myself buying the same oil and filter...so I figure, why not let someone else worry about dropping the skidplate, dripping oil down their arm and not have to worry about crawling around in the dirt. :idea:

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I go to a Valvoline Instant Oil Change (NEVER GO NEAR A JIFFY LUBE!!!!!). The guys there actually know about cars and can appreciate them. The one here I get out and sit down and chat with the guys while they're changing my oil. They're all cool guys. And...it only costs about $5 more than doing it myself buying the same oil and filter...so I figure, why not let someone else worry about dropping the skidplate, dripping oil down their arm and not have to worry about crawling around in the dirt. :idea:

Hmmm...great to know. Thanks!

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I work around heavy equipment, what the mechs. do, is install a hydralic hose with a 45° fitting on one end, and a screw in plug on the other. Run the hose from the oil pan to a convenient place at the side of the equipment. Makes it easy to drain the oil. Hydralic hose is quite strong.

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I work around heavy equipment, what the mechs. do, is install a hydralic hose with a 45° fitting on one end, and a screw in plug on the other. Run the hose from the oil pan to a convenient place at the side of the equipment. Makes it easy to drain the oil. Hydralic hose is quite strong.

Draining it is the easy part...getting the filter off is another story, however

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I have the Black Panther skids.

 

Pulling the front skid isn't any harder than pulling the splash guard, other than weight. I'll look again at the idea of pulling the filter with the plate in place - I didn't think that was possible.

 

I never tried to have an oil-monkey touch them - I'm surprised a quick-shop will even do that once they see a full set of steel skids. I have 2 bolts stripped and tapped to 1/4 inch, so I figure that makes the process far too confusing to ask the oil-monkey to put it back together!

 

The rear plate doesn't have to be dropped: just loosen the rear bolts and it will drop a few inches in the front (which are unbolted anyway to drop the front skid). A wide, shallow funnel can be positioned in the existing hole to drain at the plug.

 

I replaced the Nissan drain plug with a Fram quick-release, which means you don't need the funnel because the hose adaptor is your drain. It makes it a little easier. I used to change oil on a lift at my friends shop, but with the skids it's easier to do it on the ground. I use a block of wood to hold up the skids close to the frame to get the threads started. I've thought about enlarging the hole, but don't want to give up any protection... mine are first gen. skids, I think the new ones have a larger hole?

 

Dean Thayer has suggested using plastic grocery bags to unscrew and contain the messy filter change, and that works well - just be aware most cheap grocery bags have holes, so triple bag 'em.

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Dean Thayer has suggested using plastic grocery bags to unscrew and contain the messy filter change, and that works well - just be aware most cheap grocery bags have holes, so triple bag 'em.

Actually, I've discovered that ziplock sandwich bags work even better to limit the mess.

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I just drop the Front skid it's 6 bolts and the rear plate you don't have to take off at all. You don't have to loosen any bolts on the Rear plate just let it hang there.

 

Herm is correct all the new plates have a larger hole for the oil drain plug.

 

:beer:

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<<You don't have to loosen any bolts on the Rear plate just let it hang there.>>

 

Not on mine - you built a stout skidplate! When I drop the front bolts the rear skid only droops about 1/4 inch. The rear brace with those beefy bolts holds the whole thing pretty tight. I loosen the rear bolts a few turns to get some wiggle room under the drain plug.

 

m.

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Not on mine - you built a stout skidplate!  When I drop the front bolts the rear skid only droops about 1/4 inch.  The rear brace with those beefy bolts holds the whole thing pretty tight. I loosen the rear bolts a few turns to get some wiggle room under the drain plug.

 

m.

Herm you have the Fram plug do you still loosen the bolts on the Bracket bar?

If so try this next. Take your Fram Tube and cut it shorter then screw your Drain attatchment in. This is what I do and it seems to work on the First Gen the second Gen is Super easy without the Fram attatchment.

 

I do believe you have 1 of my first Gen Defender plates? I remember :unsure: I had to do that before I put that Fram drain plug on as well.

 

 

:beer:

Edited by Runnerman
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