94extreme Posted July 19, 2005 Share Posted July 19, 2005 my ac seems to work pretty good overall but when i sit and idle for a bit it sure gets hot in there.. my truck is black so maybe it just can't keep up.. temps in high 90s and high hum. (70s<).... just kind of wondering if anybody has noticed their truck doing this too... or do i need to look into it? thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jj big shoe Posted July 19, 2005 Share Posted July 19, 2005 Check the evaporator in front of the radiator to see if its blocked, maybe squirt a hose at it to clean it off. Also check to see if your fan and/or shroud are damaged (At idle that's the only thing moving air across the evap.). Check the sight glass for the a/c level, too (On my '87 its just behind the grille to the right of the pasenger headlight). With the a/c on full it should be clear with only a few small bubbles. A lot of bubbles means its low on charge. Hope this helps. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TrailChaser Posted July 19, 2005 Share Posted July 19, 2005 Check the sight glass for the a/c level, too (On my '87 its just behind the grille to the right of the pasenger headlight). With the a/c on full it should be clear with only a few small bubbles. A lot of bubbles means its low on charge. Hope this helps. I've heard of cleaning the evaporator, or adding a small fan.... I've never seen the sight glass thing. Is it on the 95? -study- Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
94extreme Posted July 19, 2005 Author Share Posted July 19, 2005 jj, is your truck on r12 or r134a refrigerant? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jj big shoe Posted July 20, 2005 Share Posted July 20, 2005 (edited) It's still on R-12. I had a buddy of mine fill it before I moved to FL. He used to do HVAC and has the appropriate license to buy it so I haven't had to convert it yet. From what I understand, R-134a isn't as efficient as R-12 so once you convert it your a/c isn't going to blow as cold plus it costs a lot to do the conversion. There's a product called Freeze 12 that is supposed to work in R-12 systems and mix with any remaining refridgerant eliminating the need to spend the additional ~$70 getting a vacuum pump put on it at a shop. Freeze 12 doesn't require a license either and you can get a complete conversion kit with three cans for around what you would pay the shop with the vacuum recovery pump. That's what I'll do when the time comes. I've heard of cleaning the evaporator, or adding a small fan.... I've never seen the sight glass thing. Is it on the 95? Dunno. Maybe someone with a '95 will chime in? Edited July 20, 2005 by jj big shoe Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TrailChaser Posted July 20, 2005 Share Posted July 20, 2005 The sight glass may only come with the R12...? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mws Posted July 20, 2005 Share Posted July 20, 2005 Just to clarify terms, the heat expeller in front of the radiator is the condensor. The evaporator is the heat absorber inside the plenum. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
94extreme Posted July 21, 2005 Author Share Posted July 21, 2005 yeah, no window on my truck.. (r-134a) i am gonna hose it down tomorrow and see if that helps... it is a bit muddy but not bad at all.. no buttload here.. when i idle the air coming out of the vents warms up untill it feels almost like outside air... my coolant temp spikes then too but not redline... when moving the air is cold. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted July 21, 2005 Share Posted July 21, 2005 Hey MZ, since you put it like that, I think your truck may be running hot... When you idle, the fan is blowing really hot air from the radiator through the condensor, not allowing it to cool/condense properly. My temp NEVER reaches 1/2 way, but I have a new radiator and fresh coolant... How old is you coolant, what condition is it in ? Is the inside of your radiator scaly or crappy ? How old is the thermostat ? Do you have good flow ? You get the point. One of the first mods I will do after damage control is done is install a temp/oil pressure/volt meter gauge cluster. Had that in my old 720 stock and it kept me from breaking down a couple of times. Why don't Pathy's have it ? Wait, I have a cheapie XE, maybe SE or LE have them ? Anyway, how old is your AC juice anyway ? It may be a combo between the two... B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
94extreme Posted July 21, 2005 Author Share Posted July 21, 2005 i am gonna go on a limb and say original? or freaking close to it.. waiting to 110k for bunch of maint... might just dump the glycol and refill with good H2o for the rest of the summer.. a buddy of mine offered to drain and refill me on the ac juice... wondering if that stuff has to come off for the t-belt.. this is gonna be a b#$%^^! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
M in KC Posted July 21, 2005 Share Posted July 21, 2005 If you're going to change your coolant try running distilled di-hydrogen oxide rather than the stuff out of your tap. I don't know about your water quality but normally there are mineral deposits in it that eventually scale up your tubes, decrease your flow and raise your temp. Ya you'll have to drop the rad out for a t-belt job. At least I did there just isn't much room up there. While it's a little more work it diffenately is the easy part of the job. JMTC Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted July 21, 2005 Share Posted July 21, 2005 Um, yeah... You always fill the radiator with distilled water unless you you don't care about scaling up the radiator or the pathways in the block... B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
revgolem Posted July 21, 2005 Share Posted July 21, 2005 just wanted to chime in about freeze12. BAD IDEA. they say it can be mixed with the r12, but basically you are just putting in r134. the problem comes from the type of oil they each use, and how they interact. just a drop of either in the other creates this goop that is like putting vasoline into the system. very thick and sticky. this causes major problems for the valves in the system which are only thousandnth of an inch or so. the leaking problem with the retro-fit is usually due to the wrong o-rings being used, so if they are not changed you will leak anyway. as far as the performance issues with retro-fitting, those usually have to do with the overall design of the system. most foreign manufacturers actually did a really good job with the system and retro-fitting shows a minimal drop in performance. using freeze12 would only get you about 50-55 degrees from the vents as opposed to around 40-45 with a retro. can't say offhand about the sight-glass on pathfinders (mines not here right now to check) but it is not an r-12 only component. most systems have one either built into the receiver/dryer or very close to it. retro-fitting and charging really isin't that hard, and most of the expense of having it done is the labor. in a lot of cases it's worth picking up a book and learning how to do it, picking up a set of gauges and a vacuum pump to do it yourself. then, you are all set to do it for others as well... for a small fee of course. sly Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andreus009 Posted July 22, 2005 Share Posted July 22, 2005 I thought I'd chime in since I have a similar issue with my AC running warm at idle, and the temp gauge creeping past the 1/2 way point. I do regular coolant flushes, and the inside the radiator looks good so I'm fairly certain that these are not an issue. Thermostat was changed recently as well. Also, I've cleaned both the condensor and radiator cooling fins with only marginal improvement. As Precise says the fan is the only thing causing air flow across the condensor when sitting still, which leads me to believe that I may have an issue with my fan clutch. I'm mentioning this because you may want to check this on yours as well. I plan on replacing mine this weekend (~$100 new), and will add a new post to let you know the results. If it doesn't work it will be time to see a proffesional ($$$$) P.S. You should change your coolant at least once a year. I've been told that if you don't the chemical of the antifreeze break down, and will begin to attack the aluminum heads. Haven't experienced it myself, but the cost of coolant vs cost of heads is enough to motivate me to do it regularly. Also, I wouldn't recommend running just pure water (even distilled) because you won't have any corrosion protection. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jj big shoe Posted July 22, 2005 Share Posted July 22, 2005 For the same price or lower you could replace your fan with an electric one from a Quest or a Taurus (I did the latter) which would cool like a champ and boost your HP and MPG a little. If you decide to make the swap I'd advise you to get an adjustable t'stat. My Pathy runs a little hotter since I put on the fixed 180 degree one because it has to get hotter to affect the temp probe (I'll be switching that out soon). There's a lot of info on the web about it. Just type in "Taurus fan install". Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
94extreme Posted July 22, 2005 Author Share Posted July 22, 2005 I thought I'd chime in since I have a similar issue with my AC running warm at idle, and the temp gauge creeping past the 1/2 way point. I do regular coolant flushes, and the inside the radiator looks good so I'm fairly certain that these are not an issue. Thermostat was changed recently as well. Also, I've cleaned both the condensor and radiator cooling fins with only marginal improvement. As Precise says the fan is the only thing causing air flow across the condensor when sitting still, which leads me to believe that I may have an issue with my fan clutch. I'm mentioning this because you may want to check this on yours as well. I plan on replacing mine this weekend (~$100 new), and will add a new post to let you know the results. If it doesn't work it will be time to see a proffesional ($$$$) P.S. You should change your coolant at least once a year. I've been told that if you don't the chemical of the antifreeze break down, and will begin to attack the aluminum heads. Haven't experienced it myself, but the cost of coolant vs cost of heads is enough to motivate me to do it regularly. Also, I wouldn't recommend running just pure water (even distilled) because you won't have any corrosion protection. thanks andreus, i'll probably add water wetter or something along those lines.. please post up what you find out with your fixes.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted July 22, 2005 Share Posted July 22, 2005 Good call about the fan clutch andreus, I had forgotten about that. Yes, in my old 720 the fan clutch was going out. What tipped me off is that the temp would be fine if I was moving 20-25+ mph, but at idle it started to rise... Changed it out and problem solved. I've considered going with the electric fan set up, but mine still works fine and I generally follow the 'If it ain't broke, dont fix it" motto. B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
94extreme Posted July 25, 2005 Author Share Posted July 25, 2005 ok, hosed down the condenser/rad. had a little bit mud packed in the bumper. had to straignten a few "fins" on the cndsr though.. that's what you get for bushwhacking.. lol.. i hope i don't have a leak... this might have helped a bit but if i sit at lights, at the second one it will start blowing warmer air.. now gotta find the pitcock on the rad and drain that sucker.. (green stuff looked ok but smelled horrid - prob need new hoses soon too) any progress andreus? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted July 25, 2005 Share Posted July 25, 2005 Hey MZ, when the truck is cold, spin the fan by hand. It should be stiff and not really free wheel much at all. Keep the hood open, roll down the window, start it and listen... You should hear the fan blowing hard, then fade out a bit (within 30 seconds-1 minute?) after it has been running. If you dont really hear much of a change, the fan clutch is probably shot. By your milage, I'm guessing it is the factory original. I have had bad luck putting new fan clutches on old water pumps. It changes the ballance, and can ruin the old, already worn bushing in the WP, making it leak. You said you were going to do the timing belt, right ? Change the fan clutch and WP at the same time. This is what I would do if it were mine... B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
94extreme Posted July 25, 2005 Author Share Posted July 25, 2005 you can get this fan clutch by itself somewhere? good idea btw., thanks. i am gonna do the t-belt and stuff in the fall sometime.. probably before the weather turns.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted July 25, 2005 Share Posted July 25, 2005 Yes, it is a standard item. You can get it at the stealership, online, Kragens, Napa, Grand Auto, etc... 4 10mm bolts attach it to the WP pulley. Probably the same for the fan it's self. You may be able to get it out without removing the fan shroud or anything. Simple job, but do it all at once man !! i am gonna do the t-belt and stuff in the fall sometime.. probably before the weather turns.. Better do it before the weather turns !! Don't be such a lazy bastage !! Park the truck and get to it !! Besides, you have that beautiful Benz to drive in the meanwhile... B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Rik_Dunham Posted July 25, 2005 Share Posted July 25, 2005 This isn't much help but just my observation My 1990 Pathfinder is Gold (no tinted windows) and has the r12 refrigerant and frosts your butt off. My 1995 is Forest Green (with tinted windows) and has r134a refrigerant and warms while sitting at the lights. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
94extreme Posted July 26, 2005 Author Share Posted July 26, 2005 This isn't much help but just my observation My 1990 Pathfinder is Gold (no tinted windows) and has the r12 refrigerant and frosts your butt off. My 1995 is Forest Green (with tinted windows) and has r134a refrigerant and warms while sitting at the lights. ahhh finally. exactly what i was looking for.. thanks.. still hoping it's a problem that can be overcome.. we'll see Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
94extreme Posted July 26, 2005 Author Share Posted July 26, 2005 Yes, it is a standard item. You can get it at the stealership, online, Kragens, Napa, Grand Auto, etc... 4 10mm bolts attach it to the WP pulley. Probably the same for the fan it's self. You may be able to get it out without removing the fan shroud or anything. Simple job, but do it all at once man !! i am gonna do the t-belt and stuff in the fall sometime.. probably before the weather turns.. Better do it before the weather turns !! Don't be such a lazy bastage !! Park the truck and get to it !! Besides, you have that beautiful Benz to drive in the meanwhile... B kool, i'll get one of those for the job then too.. the list is freaking getting long and e$$pen$ive.. lol was gonna check the clutch but i forgot before i fired it up.. manana.. hehehe i still wonder if the AC has to be taken apart (opened) during t-belt.. haven't search yet but if anybody knows let me know please.. and lol.. thanks for the praises on das boot.. lol but it needs major work (front end) can you say e$$pen$ive? ($90/bilstein).. and i am working on the mustang right now.. gotta get it running gas prices are killing me... the benz is next in line then the pathy.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted July 26, 2005 Share Posted July 26, 2005 thanks for the praises on das boot.. He!! Bud, you are the one that has her; she's pretty and you know it. (not to mention well engineered, well built, real steel, you got the walnut dash ? Sweet !) Yeah, the parts list for the Pathy can mount, but consider it a midlife reconditioning. You'll get another 100k easy ! Old cars are nice, but take a lot of love. 65 VW convert baja, 78 Superbeetle convert, 87 BMW K75. Thats 3 out of 5 that I have, and they keep me running in circles to keep right (or drivable)... The only one thats perfect is the CBR1100XX, and it needs tires and clutch soon ($600). Yikes... I need to find a rich woman !! What year Mustang ? Late 60's right ? Never had one, but like the body style ! 289 ? B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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