SC88Pathy Posted May 21, 2005 Share Posted May 21, 2005 Went to get my pathy aligned today as it has been pulling to the right. Gave the guy the keys to the pathy and went inside to wait. About 10 minutes later he comes in to tell me that he can't align the truck because the lower ball joints are worn and there's too much play in the suspension. Stupid rizzrum ragum :furious: . Now I have to get the BJ's replaced, and a simple alignment has turned into a big ol expensive hassle. Not only that but the tire I had for my spare was too damaged to hold air, and they didn't have any used 31x10.5's. pssd Today just wasn't my day. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DJ Dank Posted May 21, 2005 Share Posted May 21, 2005 Dang that sucks!!! Whats the deal with the BJ's going out anyways? I've heard of lots of older Pathy's that have encountered this problem. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slick Posted May 21, 2005 Share Posted May 21, 2005 hmm.. my Pathy pulls to the right.. but I know the bj's have been replaced in her previous "life".....mebbe I'll check again after installing my 31's... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vsicks Pathy Posted May 21, 2005 Share Posted May 21, 2005 Big job. I am glad its you and not me. Are you going to do the job yourself or get someone else to do it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SC88Pathy Posted May 22, 2005 Author Share Posted May 22, 2005 (edited) Not sure yet as to whether I'll do it or get someone else to. From what I'v read in the garage posts its a PITA, of course there's also the question of whether I can afford to pay someone to do it. Edited May 22, 2005 by SC88Pathy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
94 Pathy Posted May 22, 2005 Share Posted May 22, 2005 I don't know who's posting that it's hard, but I think it is one of the easiest jobs out there. Jack up the truck remove the tires and away you go. It's very simple and if you happen to have a Chilton/Haynes, it will be even easier. Good luck! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jonathanjdfraser Posted May 22, 2005 Share Posted May 22, 2005 i know that i have to do mine this summer, but i'm not gona complain, if you use it, you have to keep it fixed... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
88pathoffroad Posted May 23, 2005 Share Posted May 23, 2005 True. Lower BJ's are a PITA to change. WHen you do the job, get ones that have a lifetime warranty and SAVE the BOX AND RECIEPT. Just in case. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SC88Pathy Posted June 13, 2005 Author Share Posted June 13, 2005 OK now that school is out I'm finally getting around to getting the ball joints replaced. I have decided that I'm going to have someone else do it for me, but now I have a question; Should I get factory lower ball joints or after-market ball joints (specifically MOOG ball joints)? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
94extreme Posted June 13, 2005 Share Posted June 13, 2005 it's not that bad of a job.. just a bit time consuming... go with the cheaper of the two? i like to be able to shoot some grease into them to extend their life.. if you care the same way then go with the ones that have the grease fittings.. stock ones do not.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr. Pickles Posted June 13, 2005 Share Posted June 13, 2005 I got Moog parts in a kit on Ebay including upper, lower, as well as inner and outer tie rod ends, for $100 plus shipping. Who knows on install though, as I'm too busy to do it. Good luck! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
red-finder Posted June 13, 2005 Share Posted June 13, 2005 (edited) I'm going to have to do this job soon myself. I got a kit off ebay like you did Mr. Pickles with the upper, lowers and the tie rod ends. I used the uppers when I did my suspension lift, but I couldn't make myself do the lowers at the same time. Someone needs to do the job and do the right up with pictures. What is the easiest way to change them? Edited June 13, 2005 by red-finder Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
94 Pathy Posted June 20, 2005 Share Posted June 20, 2005 I don't get it! I think I'm going to get that kit also and re-do my ball joints, even though I really don't need to right now. I did get one pinched before getting the truck alligned after the lift. But not bad. I'll have to take step by step pic's and a write up for all you that are too afraid of using up some of your precious time and try to learn something. Save yourself some money on labor and get more toys & gagits for the Pathy! -bounce- Good luck to all that's attempting the ball joints! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SC88Pathy Posted July 12, 2005 Author Share Posted July 12, 2005 Got the ball joints replaced yesterday and what a difference it makes! The ride is less rough now, and it handles better too. Total cost $590, parts labor and alignment. Did I mention that the front is now riding about 2 inches higher now? Now the front is even with the back! Before: After: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Harbinger Posted July 12, 2005 Share Posted July 12, 2005 Glad to see you back up and running! I would just be grimacing at the repair costs! Would be nice if we had a write up on replacing the BJ's so us members can save that few hundred dollars in labor costs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
norcaljoe Posted July 13, 2005 Share Posted July 13, 2005 (edited) I feel for you. I'm in about the same position. Went in saturday for alinment and was told the centerlink and the idler arm need to replaced. Arhh. :furious: (sorry about the spellin , the key in between F and H quit workin.) Edited July 13, 2005 by norcaljoe Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
88pathoffroad Posted July 13, 2005 Share Posted July 13, 2005 Harbinger: 1. Jack up front of vehicle and support LCA's securely with jackstands. 2. Remove wheels. 3. Remove hubs and CV axle snap-rings. 4. Unbolt brake line from brake caliper, tie up out of the way with wire or string. (Optional: use vise-grips to gently pinch off the rubber brake line so it doesn't leak everywhere) 5. Remove outer tie rod cotter pin, castle nut and then press outer tie rod out of steering knuckle with a tie rod puller. Or just hit the side of the knuckle a few times until it pops out. Most times it won't, though. Don't hit the threaded end of the tie rod if you intend to reuse it. 6. Remove lower balljoint bolts. 7. Remove upper balljoint bolts. 8. Remove steering knuckle, sliding the axle out. (Watch for axle spacers, they should be either on the end of the axle or inside the back of the knuckle's inner bearing surface. They need to go back on the same way they came off.) 9. Remove lower balljoint with balljoint puller. (Optional: remove and replace upper balljoint at the same time.) Reinstallation is the reverse of removal. Remember to bleed the brakes thoroughly before driving. This job's not that bad, but the brakes/knuckle are HEAVY. That's about it...and SAVE YOUR RECIEPT! Just in case. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Harbinger Posted July 13, 2005 Share Posted July 13, 2005 Thanks 88! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
firstpathy Posted July 13, 2005 Share Posted July 13, 2005 im an awe!! i cant believe you got 2 inches in the front from that1!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SC88Pathy Posted July 14, 2005 Author Share Posted July 14, 2005 I think the shop might have adjusted the torsion bars a little, it does seem like a little much for just a ball joint replacement. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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