Reido Posted May 19, 2005 Share Posted May 19, 2005 So a few weeks ago on a 4wheeling trip I got a little overconfident with some mud. I ended up getting deep enough in that a couple inches of water flooded the cab (glad i relocated the computer now). Immediately after this I noticed the clutch had almost no slip at all; it was all or nothing. Later on the freeway going home the clutch was slipping at about half throttle. The next day the clutch seemed to be back to its old self, but now the throwout bearing was squealing pretty loudly when the clutch pedal was down. So i figure put up with it for a while maybe it will go away but it will probably get worse eventually. About a month later I go 4 wheeling again, just as I start to show off and impress people with what a stock Pathfinder can do, my clutch wont disengage all the way. So I can't get it into gear. I bleed the hydralics on the trail in the rain and it's a little better but quickly getting worse, so I have to park it for the rest of the day. So now I have the chance to fix it this weekend or wait till later this summer. Important stuff down here So my question is to anyone who's done any clutch work on a Pathfinder: Can I get to and replace the throwout bearing in about a day and a half. I'm just a driveway mechanic. I think I can get a transmission jack and I got my hand tools. To get an idea of my experience, i've done a full engine rebuild and helped on a couple plus did all the repairs (lots) on an '86 S-10 I've just never had to tear into the Pathy this deep. Can I just move the transmission enough to do it all or does the engine need to be moved a bit too? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Earth1 Posted May 20, 2005 Share Posted May 20, 2005 Funny, I just went wheeling today and lost my clutch (after a week of the infamous squeal). Sorry I don't have any real input, but I'll be keeping my eye on this thread. Maybe I can save like $700 and do it myself too. Good luck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Reido Posted May 20, 2005 Author Share Posted May 20, 2005 Well I think I'm going to go for it anyway. Worst case the truck sits im my parents driveway for a couple of weeks . Besides that I won't have another chance for another 4 or 5 weeks. I'll let you know how it goes Earth. Any input is still appriciated btw. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Earth1 Posted May 20, 2005 Share Posted May 20, 2005 Looks like the torsion bar, exaust, and a whole slew of other unexpected things are interfering. I have the big manual, and could send that section your way if you need the reference. Wish I had a driveway, I park on the street. You're gonna rebuild the whole thing while your in there right? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Reido Posted May 20, 2005 Author Share Posted May 20, 2005 If "the big manual" is something besides Chilton or Haynes then yes please send those. I assume by rebuild the whole thing you're referring to a whole new clutch. And I don't know if that's what I'll do. If it turns out to be just a one Saturday job then I'll just do the bearing to save money for the moment ($20). If it really fights me and takes all my patience and weekend or more then I'll probably do a whole new clutch (~$250). I think either way I'll try to find a way to seal up the bellhousing. The tough part of that will be some kinda boot around the fork... other than that just a bunch of RTV and a breather hose. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mws Posted May 20, 2005 Share Posted May 20, 2005 Wow... are you guys psychic or what? I was just noticing that the clutch in my Pathy (just under 200K miles) is starting to get a little grabby when hot and I should start researching what it takes to replace it. So PLEASE keep us all appraised of what you find! And Earth1 - can you make/send 2 copies of the manual? I would love to have one... Were you planning to e-mail, fax, or mail paper? I can PM you with my contact info. Martin Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Earth1 Posted May 20, 2005 Share Posted May 20, 2005 Well, I'm heading up to the mountains really soon for the weekend, and I'm in a hurry right now. I'll photocopy or scan those pages and fax/email them to you guys when I get back Monday. Anyone have a decent way to host like 14 pages? BTW it's from the Nissan Service manual. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Reido Posted May 23, 2005 Author Share Posted May 23, 2005 (edited) Well I only got as far as getting it apart as far as possible this weekend :oops: To my credit the weather did suck and so do my tools. Good thing i decided to do this now though. Turns out that the throwout bearing had completely seized and was just grinding against the pressure plate when the clutch was disengaged. Because of this two of the spring "fingers" were broken off and the rest had a groove in them that when about halfway through. No wonder my clutch wouldn't disengage So next weekend I'll get a whole new clutch put in and get the flywheel resurfaced. Also after I had the clutch off i noticed that there is this metal plug in the end of the crankshaft (bronze color and about 3/4 inch diameter and 1/2 inch deep). A good portion of this is chipped off. I couldn't find the piece so I don't know how long it has been like this or if I just did it taking out the transmission. The plug still appears to be sealing off whatever is behind that. Does anyone know what that thing is for and if I should replace it? I'm not too worried about it but I can just see it popping out and oil pouring all over my new clutch and running the engine dry. And Earth and mws i can post a kinda walkthrough thing if you would like. Edited May 23, 2005 by Reido Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Reido Posted May 23, 2005 Author Share Posted May 23, 2005 Wow... are you guys psychic or what? I was just noticing that the clutch in my Pathy (just under 200K miles) is starting to get a little grabby when hot and I should start researching what it takes to replace it. Have you tried just bleeding the hydralics yet and/or adjust pedal freeplay and things? Try that first. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mws Posted May 23, 2005 Share Posted May 23, 2005 Yeah, I rebuilt the MC and replaced the slave cylinder. I'm afraid the clutch may just be worn out. Piece of crap Jap cars - clutch wears out after only 200,000 miles? Sheesh.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted May 24, 2005 Share Posted May 24, 2005 Probably the second clutch mws, maybe the first... Still, 4 times around the world, if the clutch is tired, OK !! Reido, the thing you are talking about is the pilot bushing. If in doubt, replace it; they are CHEAP. May be a bit tricky to get out; you have to pull it out of a blind hole. I didn't have to do mine as the old one measured the same ID as the new. As for if the damage is new or old, if you take ithe bushing out, clean it and look, a newer chip or scar will appear brighter and cleaner. It's not that hard to read the metal. Try chipping it yourself to see what it looks like. B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Reido Posted May 24, 2005 Author Share Posted May 24, 2005 Ok pilot bushing sounds right since that is included in the clutch kits, but how do i get it out? It is pressed into the end of the crank and i didn't see anything to tug on or anyway to get behind it and push it out. Good idea for finding out when the damage happened too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mws Posted May 25, 2005 Share Posted May 25, 2005 It is still the original clutch... Flat amazing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andreus009 Posted May 25, 2005 Share Posted May 25, 2005 Getting the pilot bushing out............... There is a special tool that you may be able to get to pull it out, but I haven't yet found one. The first time I did it I used bolt with a thin head that would hang the edge of it at the back side (towards the engine front). The thread of the bolt went through a socket big enough to pull the bushing into and stick through the drive part of the socket. With the thread through the socket put on a washer and nut. Turn the nut while keeping the bolt from spinning and the bolt head hung on the edge on the pilot bushing. With luck you can pull it out. Now for the easy method. Find a piece of rod with as close as a diameter to the inside diameter of the pilot bushing and about twice as long as the pilot bushing. (I used a 5/8" clevis pin with one wrap of black electrical tape) Fill the area inside the pilot bushing about 3/4 full of grease and insert the rod. Now hammer on the end of the rod sticking out, and it should drive the pilot bushing out. The key is to make the diameter of the rod as close (i.e. the use of electrical tape to slightly increase the diameter of my pin) to the inside diameter of the pilot bushing that way the grease applies all the force to the bushing instead of trying to squirt out. Trust me it works. Just did it about a week ago. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Precise1 Posted May 25, 2005 Share Posted May 25, 2005 Hey andreus, I like the grease trick, thats a good one ! You'd have to match the diameter well though... I have also heard of drilling in to both sides of the ID and using a pick and a block to lever it out or using expanding snap ring pliers. All good ideas, its more what you have and what you prefer. B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
94extreme Posted May 26, 2005 Share Posted May 26, 2005 i don't have time to read everyone's responce right now but here is a bit more info: http://midwestxterraowners.com/nuke/forums...p?showtopic=745 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Diesel Boy Posted May 26, 2005 Share Posted May 26, 2005 Just a interesting idea for ya in regard to getting the tranny back in. Two ratchet tie downs slung between the chassis rails, sit the gear box in so the tie downs make a cradle, crank up the tie downs untill the gear box is aligned correctly and at the right angle, the put your feet behind the box and push it into place. I have done one recently this way, the whole job took the two of us 4hrs!!! We did have a transmission jack, but found it to clumsy, so went with my tie down idea. Not saying its good or anything, but it works if you don't have the right equiptment Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
snosnk Posted June 1, 2005 Share Posted June 1, 2005 or you can make one of these and use a cherry picker to lift the trans from the inside. Did a pilot bushing and CAP Sensor in about 4 hrs using this. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Reido Posted June 1, 2005 Author Share Posted June 1, 2005 Brilliant ideas, but I just used the standard transmission jack. Had to wrestle with it for an hour or so but it's all back together now. Works fine again, but it has a way different pedal feel to it now. I drive the thing like I'm just learning a stick again. Going to have to try to make some adjustments. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest pathman Posted June 2, 2005 Share Posted June 2, 2005 or you can make one of these and use a cherry picker to lift the trans from the inside. Did a pilot bushing and CAP Sensor in about 4 hrs using this. snosnk, Is that just a flat plate you bolted to the tranny. Could explain how that works, it sound very interesting. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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