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1992 WD21 Pathfinder SE front axles, bushings, thxs?


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Hello friends, it's been too long and times have and are crazy, right?  I'm hoping ya'll are good.  My 92SE 5 speed is okay, yet looking under the front, both front axle inner (towards engine) boots are split and the grease has spread on frame etc. 

Your thoughts on this job?  1) Replace complete axles, what brands, where to order?  2) Repack-grease replace boots only? 3) How hard for me (basic tools) to do in the driveway, how long each side or both?  4) How hard/long for an auto shop to do? 

 

Also, all the rubber bushings in that area look weak at least, cracked, smashed etc. They may be 30yrs old. 5) What would that job (all the bushings at one time) be called, are there kits available that, Rubber OEM or polyurethane, thoughts?  Any reputable shop recommendations for Socal, Temecula, Murrieta, Hemet, Inland Empire, CA, San Diego or Riverside County, CA? 

I need a shop that knows Nissans/Hondas and is fair with the work and costs.  Your recommendations, advice are welcomed. Thanks so much!  Aaron 

 

 

 

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Welcome back!

 

I imagine the axles would be pretty quick and easy for a shop to replace. They're not too bad to do yourself, but the bolts holding them to the front diff are 12mm 12-point, so make sure you have a 12-point impact socket before you get into it. I rebooted my old axles and swore I'd never do it again--there must be some trick to getting them apart that I didn't know, because good lord those things fought me. I've read that the OE axles are usually better than whatever reman crap is out there, but after the time and aggravation of re-booting, I might roll those dice.

 

Looks like you highlighted the sway bar end link (very easy, probably needs the bushing that holds the swaybar to the frame too), upper and lower ball joint (not too bad, thankfully Nissan didn't rivet them in like some makes do) and tie rod end (also easy). It'll need an alignment afterwards, so any other front end work it needs, you might as well do at the same time. If you haven't done the strut rod bushings yet, they're probably due too, and may require some welding. 

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Hey hello thanks for the greeting and your help!  These last few years have been a mess and a blur really and I thank you for the input.  My old subaru CV axles were a similar hit or miss with the aftermarket versions which is probably what I'll look into or the shop will order them so they may warranty them too.  Interesting about the 12-point impact wrench ...I didn't know that.  All the rubbers in the front end do look about the same age and not hard to change like your wrote, especially for a seasoned mechanic. 

 

One of the last jobs I had a local shop do was the clutch replacement.  First shop where I wanted the work done the estimator said it was a 40hr job and would run $2400 plux tax IIRC.  Crazy..., 40 hours for a skilled shop with like 12 bays and lifts and all that.  Heck, I thought back to about 1996 doing my Subaru clutch the first time in my apartment driveway on ramps.  That took me 8hrs the first time, a big learning curve, but I damaged the rear main seal putting it in.  So I had to redo the job... 4 hours that time and a good seal lasted until I sold the wagon a few years ago.  40 hours for a full service shop, really??  I then took the Nissan to another nearby shop and they did it for $1400.

 

Anyway, I'll look in the strut rod bushings at the same time.  I thought the previous owner had redone the front and rear suspension yet I'm not certain.  I may add more photos soon, when I find out more, or with more questions. 

Thanks again for your help and best regards, Aaron 

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Wow, $2400... that's a bit excessive. I know things are immensely more complicated on more modern vehicles, and the exhaust creates it's own problems because it's in the way, but ya... That's a bit much for anything, except the timing belt on these things.🤣 If I were to guess, I would say that they quoted you that much because they didn't want to do the work.

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Imagine 40 hours for a clutch job... The book time to re&re the transmission is something like 10 or 11 hours... Were they machining the flywheel by hand? :rofl:

 

If you are up for a project you can try and replace the boots yourself, like Slart said it isn't a fun job and is quite messy. But if you want to save those oem axles, probably worth it. The aftermarket ones are OK, and they make some extended travel ones now that would be good if you plan on offroading it or lifting it.

Edited by adamzan
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On 4/1/2023 at 5:00 PM, Slartibartfast said:

I rebooted my old axles and swore I'd never do it again...

 

Echoing this.  Rebooting sucks, especially when the circlips are stubborn and the bearing retainer doesn't want to pop off.  It's extremely messy, too.  And for whatever reason, the cost of rebuild/boot kits are almost half the cost of a new CV on RockAuto ($25 vs $50).  But as adamzan mentioned, OE axles may be worth rebooting.

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On 4/2/2023 at 2:52 PM, gamellott said:

...I would say that they quoted you that much because they didn't want to do the work.

Hey gamellott, yeah that sure maybe part of it, lol.  I had been to that shop the Friday or Saturday before this and taken a ride with a mechanic test driving.  Then coming in that Monday, I think the estimator just figured I was decided to have them do the work no matter the cost pretty much.  Anyway, I haven't been back there and don't plan on it. 

Thanks for your input and happy trails!  Aaron

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On 4/4/2023 at 3:55 AM, adamzan said:

...isn't a fun job and is quite messy. But if you want to save those oem axles, probably worth it. The aftermarket ones are OK, and they make some extended travel ones now that would be good if you plan on offroading it or lifting it. 

Hi adamzan, nice to hear from you, thanks!  I do offroad yet in a mild low-impact sort of way so I don't plan for lifting or extended travel axles for this Pathy.  Interesting though!  My thoughts right now are to seek a local shop to do these repairs and what I need is a fair rate/cost and the work done correctly.  I plan to keep the oem axles and have them cleaned and rebooted or do it myself and then just keep them for later.  I want to get the same shop to do the bushings as a "kit", strut rod bushings and then alignment (as Slartibartfast wrote).  Cheers and thanks always, Aaron

  

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On 4/5/2023 at 10:31 AM, hawairish said:

 

Rebooting sucks, especially when the circlips are stubborn and the bearing retainer doesn't want to pop off.  It's extremely messy, the cost of rebuild/boot kits are almost half the cost of a new CV on RockAuto ($25 vs $50).  

Hi hawairish, yeah similar challenges with the older Subaru boots and rebooting are had.  After getting the aftermarket type (shop recommended/warrantied) replacement axles, I'll keep these oem axles and at a later time probably rehab them myself is what I think.  I may loose a core charge, not sure, but whatever.  

Thanks for you input and best regards, Aaron

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Any thoughts, do you know if bushing "kits" include bushings for rear end parts too, which parts, any particular brand(s) to recommend for these kits?  I have seen some while searching online.  Just from a quick look at Energy Suspension Parts dot com for example it doesn't look the "complete" kit contains all the parts I need to replace. 

Maybe a good start though?   Thanks for the help!  Aaron

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The biggest gripe against the red/colored poly bushings, that I have heard, is that they squeak. The OE style rubber ones do not. I imagine there is an amount of lube that can be applied that could mitigate that, but that's up to you. 

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If you're going to save the OE axles to reboot yourself later on, may as well use this rockford ones. That is what I did 13 years ago and I actually pull the axles off the truck to put on my current wd21 (when the time comes, it doesn't get driven much). The boots still look and feel like they did back then.

 

http://www.rockfordcv.com/Nissan_bootkits.htm

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20 hours ago, gamellott said:

The biggest gripe against the red/colored poly bushings, that I have heard, is that they squeak... 

Ah okay great to know, yeah I'd prefer no or few squeaks, there's enough already!!  Thanks gamellott, cheers!

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7 hours ago, adamzan said:

If you're going to save the OE axles to reboot yourself later on, may as well use this rockford ones. That is what I did 13 years ago and ...The boots still look and feel like they did back then.

Right on adamzan, thanks for the tip and link.  I doubt I would have found it ( rockfordcv dot com) otherwise...  Best regards and safe travels.  Aaron 

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No problem. And like @gamellott said the poly bushings always seem to squeak unless you buy the right lube... For a truck there isn't really any benefit other than making the ride slightly more jarring and uncomfortable.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Thanks for input everyone.  I’ve recently been to one wrecking yard, and four mechanic shops for advice, and or estimates.  Two of the mechanics will not work on such an old (1992) vehicle.  The other two shops made similar quotes for the front Axles only.  They (give or take) want $750 each side for Axles and their labor.  They would be ordering the axles (rather than me) and as such can Warranty, etc the work/ parts.  
when I mentioned the front suspension bushings/ rubber to one shop he said they don’t do like a whole front end “Kit” but do the replacement per part as/if needed.  We didn’t get into any estimates for the suspension.  The Axles are my first priority really.
I’m leaning towards doing the replacement axles, rebooting the oems with Rockford CV boots/parts and keeping them.  And also doing the suspension/rubber (whole front end both sides) kit type package myself.  

I’ll need to take my pathfinder to another location than my driveway if the process takes more than a couple days total.  Advice regarding any special tools needed (pullers, etc) or the difficult points of these jobs 1) Axles and 2) front suspension is appreciated?  Do I need multiple people, jacks, etc.  if I need to buy special tools etc, okay I’ll still save a bunch of money doing it myself.  

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Fortunately, I have a 1992 Nissan Truck/Pathfinder factory manual bought from ebay so I'm good in that area I feel yet most of these mechanic jobs are new to me so there's uncertainty for sure and a learning curve.  I was surprised by the two shops (one specializes in Nissan & Toyota) who wouldn't even look at my Pathfinder to make an estimate.  That specialty shop said this was due to the computer type being too old and they only work on the newer computer version(s). And the hefty cost of labor +/- $140/hour... Anyways, I'm resolving that I need to be able to do everything I can whenever I can and this is the way it'll be. 

https://imgur.com/gallery/s4EMD00

 

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LOL, the computer's too old to replace the CV axles?

 

6 hours ago, 92SEPathFindr said:

Advice regarding any special tools needed (pullers, etc) or the difficult points of these jobs 1) Axles and 2) front suspension is appreciated?

 

I didn't mean to write a novel, but, well, here's the novel. It's been a while since I did my CVs, so hopefully some of this is right.

 

Like I said before, you'll need a 12mm 12-point. Make sure it's impact rated. Use an impact if you can. If you have to use hand tools, put the transfer in low range 4x, with the other front wheel on the ground, to stop the axle from turning when you go to loosen the bolts. You'll need a 6mm Allen (and possibly a torch) to get the hubs off, and some snap ring pliers to get the snap ring off the CV. (Technically you're supposed to measure the endplay of the axle in the hub and select a snap ring of appropriate thickness to dial it in. I didn't bother, and I don't imagine most people do. The instructions and specs are in the service manual if you want to do it properly.) Wouldn't be a bad idea to replace the inner hub seals (seals against the CV to protect the front wheel bearing) while you're in there. You may need to unbolt the shock for access to the CV bolts, though this may not be needed if you're taking the whole knuckle off anyway. The ball joints unbolt from the arms, but you'll need pullers to get them out of the knuckles. I think I used a puller of this style, but a pickle fork would probably do the job. I picked up one of these for tie rod ends and it's great. Shouldn't need anything special for the sway bar links, but I remember screwing around with a jack or a ratchet strap or something trying to get the second side close enough to get the nut started. You may need some wiggle room for those, so get one side started, then get the other side started before tightening anything down. If the old ones are stubborn, it may be quicker to break or cut them out, assuming the kit comes with new hardware. 

 

Do you have a torque wrench? I wouldn't bother with it on the sway bar links, but it's a good idea for suspension work in general. I shoot for the low end of spec on castle nuts, then tighten more as needed to get the cotter pin hole to line up. Otherwise, shoot for the middle. IIRC the axle bolts don't have a torque spec in the manual, so I did mine to German spec with the impact.

 

If you're rebooting, there's a special plier for putting the boot clamps on, though I think I brute-forced it with normal pliers. You'll also need a vise to hold the axles, and a big punch (preferably brass). And some gloves. And a lot of paper towels. 

 

You'll need an alignment after replacing steering/suspension components. I aligned mine myself because I wouldn't trust the guys at the Les Schwab to put training wheels on a bicycle. I checked camber with a digital angle finder and a piece of flat steel laid across the rim (while parked on flat ground, obviously). I haven't found an easy way to check caster yet, and didn't have room to adjust it anyway. Both are adjusted by adding or removing shims behind the upper control arm spindles. You may not need to mess with these if you're not changing the ride height. You can get the toe somewhere close by measuring the existing tie rod assembly, then adjusting the new assembly to the same length before installing it, but it'll still need adjustment afterwards. My go-to method for setting toe uses a tape measure and two lengths of angle iron (bedframe). With the truck parked on flat ground, not on a jack, set the angle iron on jackstands, tight against the front wheel sidewalls so it's parallel with the wheels. The usual method is to measure in front of the wheels, then behind, and the difference is your toe. I measure in front, and then the tires' diameter in front of that, because there isn't a truck in the way. Either way, I try to get the front measurement 1/16-1/8" shorter than the back. Adjust to where it looks about right, drive it around the block to let it settle in, then re-check and readjust as needed. You'll probably end up doing this several times before you're happy with it. If you're only replacing one tie rod end, start by adjusting only that one side. If the alignment was good beforehand, and the other work you did didn't change the geometry enough to matter, then you should be able to get the toe right and the steering wheel straight by adjusting just that one side.

 

Make sure you've got a good set of jackstands, and use them. I slide a wheel under the truck as well, so if it falls off the stands, it has something other than me to land on. Do one side at a time so you can check the other side if you forget how something goes together. If the new joints have zerks, grease them. And clean out out the wheel arches before you get in there so you're not constantly showered in dirt while you're working.

 

Provided nothing fights you--no broken bolts, nothing seized, no surprises--a couple of days should be easily doable. But have a plan B in case something does fight you or a part doesn't fit like it should. 

 

Speaking of parts not fitting--the tie rod ends aren't all the same for these. The taper size changed for some reason in '92. Probably July of '92. Check the date on the sticker in your doorjamb before ordering parts. I got burned on that once, and still have a '92 knuckle in the corner that I had 90% installed before discovering that my tie rod end was too big for it. Also make sure you get the correct thread--inner and outer TREs are threaded opposite where they go into the adjuster, and there's no guarantee the existing assembly is installed the right way around.

 

There is a difference in the CV axles in four-cylinder vs V6 trucks, but they bolt up the same and take the same boots--I know because I have one of each on mine. Just don't get the early (two-door) 27-spline axles, those won't work with your 28-spline hubs.

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7 hours ago, Slartibartfast said:

"LOL, the computer's too old to replace the CV axles?

I didn't mean to write a novel, but, well, here's the novel. It's been a while since I did my CVs, so hopefully some of this is right."

Hey thanks so much Slartiblartfast, I will read your advice over and over while prepping to do these repairs, buying some tools, etc. and likely have more questions before I get started and when doing the work. Thank you again!!  Yeah, the first mechanic (who was recommended to me twice by different shops) just didn't want to work on my Nissan and also said he was backed up with work anyways.  Once I told the shop with the computer issues, that it was strictly mechanical (axles & suspension) they looked very, very uninterested still, in general, but said that they weren't making new appointments until next month regardless. 

Like you wrote about Les Schwab that's the WHOLE other part of my worries about counting on a shop to do the work and correctly.  I will keep looking for a great shop(s) yet I still think I can and should do most of these jobs myself.  Anyways, thanks a lot and I'll be updating soon.  Best regards, Aaron  


  

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I pretty much just did everything you are about to do lol. Ball joints, sway bar end link, tie rods, centerlink, idler arm. I didnt mess with the axles though. I would definitely look into buying a good brand of kits. You might aswell replace as much as possible honestly. The stuff really isnt that expensive. I got the whole tie rod assembly as kit. Its a TRQ from 1a auto for just over $100. Didnt see the point in trying break all the old tire rods apart. Popped one joint and unbolted the idler arm and the whole assembly came out. Its not a super hard job. Just go slow, pay attention how everything comes apart. There is a video on you tube of a guy pulling the hubs apart. Just search for our year model pathfinder ball joint replacement. On the axles and hubs i would pull 1 side and put it back together asap just so you dont forget how it goes or get parts misplaced. If you get lower ball joints with the grease zerks be sure they are 90 degree ones. Mine are straight and il never be able to get a grease gun on them. Had i known that before i probably wouldve just got non greasable ones. Once you get the hubs loose you may need a hand getting the knuckle off and holding everything together. I started out just wanting to do ball joints. After i got in there i pretty much have a brand new front end except for the front strut rod bushings which im about to order. I would get a pickle fork for sure. The narrower one seemed more helpful for me, the tie rod pickle fork i think. I bought 2 pullers and niether seemed to really work very good honestly, another reason why i just replaced everything. I used 2 jack stands, 2 jacks to help lift the a A-arms for angles and such and holt the knuckle up instead of letting it droop down. 2lb sledge for banging on the pickle fork. Bearing grease. Check your brake pads when you pull them, might aswell clean your slide and re lube them also. Time and patience it can be done. Dont force anything and strip something out. If it doesnt feel right, its probably not lol. Yup i slide my tires under the frame right below the front of the cab just in case also, actually had an extra jack stand so i poked it under there also just as a back up.

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On 4/24/2023 at 9:32 PM, 95-50 shades of grey said:

"I pretty much just did everything you are about to do lol. Ball joints, sway bar end link, tie rods, centerlink, idler arm. I didnt mess with the axles though. I would definitely look into buying a good brand of kits. You might aswell replace as much as possible honestly. The stuff really isnt that expensive. I got the whole tie rod assembly as kit. Its a TRQ from 1a auto for just over $100..."

Hey thanks very much for your input 95-50.  Yeah, all the the bushings look about the same 30 year vintage and it makes sense to me to replace all those pieces one by one and like your wrote easy does it and little by little, carefully.  I'm planning to reread through your tips there as I get ready, and buy a few tools as needed.  After the suspension, axles, and porbably the pending engine work, there will not be much left to replace...  haha.  looking forward to when it's done.  Thanks for the video links, SUPER helpful for me as an infrequent mechanic.  Cheers and best regards, Aaron    

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22 hours ago, 92SEPathFindr said:

Hey thanks very much for your input 95-50.  Yeah, all the the bushings look about the same 30 year vintage and it makes sense to me to replace all those pieces one by one and like your wrote easy does it and little by little, carefully.  I'm planning to reread through your tips there as I get ready, and buy a few tools as needed.  After the suspension, axles, and porbably the pending engine work, there will not be much left to replace...  haha.  looking forward to when it's done.  Thanks for the video links, SUPER helpful for me as an infrequent mechanic.  Cheers and best regards, Aaron    

No problem man, another thing i ran into was on the new tie rods, the new castle nuts that came with them were taller than the old castle nuts. I actually stripped the threads out of the nut trying to get it up enough to get the cotter pin through it. Ended up putting the old castle nuts on. I would keep all the old hardware until you are done just in case you have that issue or misplace something. Yeah the video is helpful. Lets you see what you are getting into. 

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That's a pretty good instructional video on how to do the front end. I will note, having done that job, that the lower ball joints, even when new, are deceptively loose. I'm sure it's just the design though. Makes me wonder if the lowers ever actually can wear out?

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