so many codes

[hbwb]

 I posted a few months ago about changing the cam seals on my wife's 1999 Pathfinder. Well the pathfinder was running fine before doing that but not so much now.

I decided to clean the throttle body and have had nothing but problems since. First I could not get the idle back down to normal. It stayed around 1500 rpm's or so with some surging thrown in for good measure. I tried the whole idle relearn thing about 50 times but never could make it work. Had a misfire on #6 which was due to an old spark plug I changed out and that took care of that. Then a misfire on #5 which came after a knock sensor code kept popping up. I noticed the distributor loose and the hole was stripped where the hold down bolt goes. I found another distributor hold down plate at my local u pull it wrecking yard which got rid of the knock sensor code.

 

Are you with me so far? Anyway after all that the idle speed is still too high and now i am getting other codes like the P1705, a transmission code and a P0120 which is a TPS code. So I clear the codes and drive it down the road and back to warn the engine. Upon pulling in my driveway she dies and would not restart. So now it is also showing a P1320 which has to do with the ignition signal. Does this sound like the ECM might be going bad? I don't see how all these codes could suddenly pop up after no issues for many years save an oil leak which was taken care of. 

 

Oh for the good old days when cars did not have computers and a multitude of sensors. 

Edited February 17, 2023 by hbwb

[hbwb]

Almost forgot, I also am getting a P0420 which is an oxygen sensor code. It still shows up.

[Mrelcocko]

 I posted a few months ago about changing the cam seals on my wife's 1999 Pathfinder. Well the pathfinder was running fine before doing that but not so much now.
I decided to clean the throttle body and have had nothing but problems since. First I could not get the idle back down to normal. It stayed around 1500 rpm's or so with some surging thrown in for good measure. I tried the whole idle relearn thing about 50 times but never could make it work. Had a misfire on #6 which was due to an old spark plug I changed out and that took care of that. Then a misfire on #5 which came after a knock sensor code kept popping up. I noticed the distributor loose and the hole was stripped where the hold down bolt goes. I found another distributor hold down plate at my local u pull it wrecking yard which got rid of the knock sensor code.
 
Are you with me so far? Anyway after all that the idle speed is still too high and now i am getting other codes like the P1705, a transmission code and a P0120 which is a TPS code. So I clear the codes and drive it down the road and back to warn the engine. Upon pulling in my driveway she dies and would not restart. So now it is also showing a P1320 which has to do with the ignition signal. Does this sound like the ECM might be going bad? I don't see how all these codes could suddenly pop up after no issues for many years save an oil leak which was taken care of. 
 
Oh for the good old days when cars did not have computers and a multitude of sensors. 

The Ignition signal p1320 is the distributor or a problem with it. Have you set the fast cam idle by chance? Also have you messed with any screws on the throttle body? I recommend downloading the EC section of the fsm to help you diagnose some of your problems as well.


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[hbwb]

I just went out and cleared the codes and it has the same issue which tells me it is likely in the distributor and not the ECM.

It is still not showing a code after trying to start it which tells me it is likely mechanical.

 

Yeah I did tinker with the fast idle cam after the idle speed was high once I cleaned the throttle body. I also found a couple vacuum leaks after I messed with the idle. Not sure I got those back to where they belong but first I need to get it firing again. 

 

[hbwb]

Doing more research I see that the 1320 code relates to a bad signal from to the transistor or coil. Then I remember how the connection to the distributor would not click together so I taped it temporarily. Checking I noticed the connection was loose and I managed to get the connector to lock in which solved that no fire issue. I still was getting a P1705 and a P0120 and more research showed those codes are both related to the TPS connection. Well when I cleaned the throttle body that connection would not lock in either but it seemed to stay in place anyway. So I go to check it and sure enough it has backed out some. Just enough to lose signal it seems. I also managed to get it to snap together and now I have no codes. Taking it for a spin to warm the engine it seemed like it was back to normal but when I stopped and put it in park the idle was still a bit high, around 1200 or 1300 rpms. 

I think that may be due to me moving the TPS before so I will check that out later but at least she runs well now. Tomorrow it is supposed to be a nice day so besides firing up the grill I will see if I can straighten out the idle. 

 

Thanks a bunch Mrelcocko. I see you are on the east side of the state up around Knoxville. I am on the west side of the state north of memphis

[Mrelcocko]

Doing more research I see that the 1320 code relates to a bad signal from to the transistor or coil. Then I remember how the connection to the distributor would not click together so I taped it temporarily. Checking I noticed the connection was loose and I managed to get the connector to lock in which solved that no fire issue. I still was getting a P1705 and a P0120 and more research showed those codes are both related to the TPS connection. Well when I cleaned the throttle body that connection would not lock in either but it seemed to stay in place anyway. So I go to check it and sure enough it has backed out some. Just enough to lose signal it seems. I also managed to get it to snap together and now I have no codes. Taking it for a spin to warm the engine it seemed like it was back to normal but when I stopped and put it in park the idle was still a bit high, around 1200 or 1300 rpms. 
I think that may be due to me moving the TPS before so I will check that out later but at least she runs well now. Tomorrow it is supposed to be a nice day so besides firing up the grill I will see if I can straighten out the idle. 
 
Thanks a bunch Mrelcocko. I see you are on the east side of the state up around Knoxville. I am on the west side of the state north of memphis

Your welcome. This group is the go to when your having problems with your R50. There’s a lot of good people here and the information is infinite. Much better than Facebook any day of the week. Yeah I’m an East Tennesseean through and through.


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[hbwb]

That's a nice looking ride.

 

Just took a lil drive and now I am getting an oxygen sensor code. I forget the number but it is bank one, the second one which is behind the catalytic converter. 

Something else for me to trouble shoot.

 

Btw I do not mess with facebook and never have. 

Edited February 19, 2023 by hbwb

[hbwb]

I still get a P041 popping up and i cannot get the idle below about 1100 rpms. I think the TPS is bad. I did a volt check on it and tried resetting the TPS. Key on I set it to 0.46 volts and when i opened the throttle all the way it would not make it quite to 4 volts. (should be close to 5) With that initial setting the idle jumped to 1900 rpms so I adjusted it as far as it would go and the idle came back down to 1100. I then did another voltage check on it and was getting a negative value where it once showed 0.46.

 

I decided to ignore the oxygen sensor code until I can get the idle straightened out as that could easily trigger the code. So I am ordering a new TPS and connectors as these are old, brittle and hard to work with. 

 

I will post back when things change back to normal. I am too stubborn to give up and have too much invested in this 348,000+ miles machine. 

[hbwb]

update;

 

I wound up replacing the TPS which helped but I started getting a code on the EGR as well as an O2 code on bank 1 second O2 sensor. 

I pulled the intake plenum and cleaned the idle control as well as the EGR valve and replaced the PCV valve. Now it runs like it should but I still get a code on the O2 sensor so I will check, and or replace, it and I should be done. Idle is back down to normal range now as well. 

 

Thanks to anyone who replied and helped. This is the end of this thread and maybe it helps someone else along the way.