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1” sub frame drop .


DannB
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Sorry.. I have tried the search bar but not having any luck finding the info. I just want to add a 1” sfd so I can add 1” spacers with my spring lift. If I drop the subframe by 1” will I also need to put a 1” spacer in for the engine mounts too? Also is there a way just to lower the subframe by an inch without removing or loosening much. I was hoping someone in this group has done the same. If I find any information soon I will delete this post. Thanks in advance  

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5 hours ago, R50JR said:

One inch sfd isn’t worth it. Just get the extended cv axles. 
 

https://www.rockauto.com/en/parts/trakmotive,NI8185XTT,cv+axle,2288

So if I get those cvs then I can add an extra 1” strut spacer with my extended shocks and spring and have no cv issues off-road? 

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3 minutes ago, DannB said:

So if I get those cvs then I can add an extra 1” strut spacer with my extended shocks and spring and have no cv issues off-road? 

Do you have stiffer springs or extended struts also? 

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5 minutes ago, R50JR said:

Do you have stiffer springs or extended struts also? 

Yes, I have raised king springs with tough dog extended shocks. 

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10 minutes ago, R50JR said:

What’s the extended shaft length?

I’m pretty sure they are 35mm over factory travel. With the spacers on they bind a lot. I know the subframe drop seems pointless at 15mm to an inch spacer, I just wondered if it would be easy just with the subframe spacers and not needing the engine spacers or steering modification. It’s all just labour and won’t cost much for the steel spacers. 

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6 minutes ago, DannB said:

I’m pretty sure they are 35mm over factory travel. With the spacers on they bind a lot. I know the subframe drop seems pointless at 15mm to an inch spacer, I just wondered if it would be easy just with the subframe spacers and not needing the engine spacers or steering modification. It’s all just labour and won’t cost much for the steel spacers. 

The struts you have seem to be factory length for 96-99 according to their catalog, so those axles should work with one inch spacers. 

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5 minutes ago, R50JR said:

The struts you have seem to be factory length for 96-99 according to their catalog, so those axles should work with one inch spacers. 

Tough dog sell 3 different options for their shocks. They definitely are not fine with the spacers. When you jack it up and spin the wheel the wheel is hard to spin and clunks on each spin. You can hear the cvs binding but it’s fine without the spacer. These shocks should have 30-35mm travel over factory shocks. BDS4024
Twin Tube McPherson Strut.. it’s 30mm extended travel

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Could I just loosen the front of the subframe and lower it just enough to fit a 15mm flat bar in there then tighten it up and do the same on the rear of the subframe? I have plenty of time do stuff but not much money 

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I don't know the R50 front end well enough to know if that would fly. If you try it, pay close attention to the length of the bolts. Unless there's 15mm of unused threads sticking out past the nut once they're tightened down, you will need to source longer bolts of the same grade. 

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On 10/9/2022 at 11:45 PM, DannB said:

Tough dog sell 3 different options for their shocks. They definitely are not fine with the spacers. When you jack it up and spin the wheel the wheel is hard to spin and clunks on each spin. You can hear the cvs binding but it’s fine without the spacer. These shocks should have 30-35mm travel over factory shocks. BDS4024
Twin Tube McPherson Strut.. it’s 30mm extended travel

I’m pretty sure your struts are factory length for pre-facelift r50s (Someone correct me if wrong). They are the same length as the OME struts which are only 0.75” (19mm) longer than facelift r50s. Your struts do not have a 35mm extension. They would bind without a spacer if they were 35mm longer. You are misinformed. 
 

So going back to my original suggestion, the axles will work with a one in spacer. 
 

 

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  • 2 months later...
On 10/9/2022 at 11:42 AM, R50JR said:

One inch sfd isn’t worth it. Just get the extended cv axles. 
 

https://www.rockauto.com/en/parts/trakmotive,NI8185XTT,cv+axle,2288

 

I just came across this thread. I haven't seen this CV-axle before! I have some questions :)

if I have a 2" spring lift in the front (AC coil + KYB strut), I can also use a 1" strut spacer for some more lift if I have these CV-axles? Will it also work without binding issues with a 2" strut spacer? And if I did the 2" strut spacer, would I need to extend any brake lines or do any other supporting modifications? 

I appreciate whatever knowledge you posses on this topic, thanks for your time!

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7 minutes ago, The_Q said:

 

I just came across this thread. I haven't seen this CV-axle before! I have some questions :)

if I have a 2" spring lift in the front (AC coil + KYB strut), I can also use a 1" strut spacer for some more lift if I have these CV-axles? Will it also work without binding issues with a 2" strut spacer? And if I did the 2" strut spacer, would I need to extend any brake lines or do any other supporting modifications? 

I appreciate whatever knowledge you posses on this topic, thanks for your time!

These axles have been around for a while for other vehicles. 

 

I doubt these axles will work for 2" spacer... they might not even work for 1" with ac coils. At this point it is still speculation from me. You can try it and report back.

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On 10/9/2022 at 2:27 PM, DannB said:

I’m pretty sure they are 35mm over factory travel. With the spacers on they bind a lot. I know the subframe drop seems pointless at 15mm to an inch spacer, I just wondered if it would be easy just with the subframe spacers and not needing the engine spacers or steering modification. It’s all just labour and won’t cost much for the steel spacers. 

 

Late response.  1" drop would not be advisable.  Dropping the subframe and getting longer bolts is trivial, but if you omit the engine spacers then the engine lowers 1"...which means hoses, wires, intake tube, exhaust pipes, radiator fan all to flex/move relative to everything else.  Putting a 1" spacer on the engine mount is easy...but since the motor mounts have integrated studs, you'd need to find a way to extend them or change the perch.  Then, on top of all that, your stock steering shaft probably wouldn't have enough flex at the rag joint to accommodate the drop and the slight angle it would create (the shaft does extend, but it'd be near/at limit).

 

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1 hour ago, The_Q said:

 

I just came across this thread. I haven't seen this CV-axle before! I have some questions :)

if I have a 2" spring lift in the front (AC coil + KYB strut), I can also use a 1" strut spacer for some more lift if I have these CV-axles? Will it also work without binding issues with a 2" strut spacer? And if I did the 2" strut spacer, would I need to extend any brake lines or do any other supporting modifications? 

I appreciate whatever knowledge you posses on this topic, thanks for your time!

The other limit that you start maxing out when you lift above 2" is alignment. Even if you in theory had axles that allowed you to lift 4" of suspension, I don't think you'll get an alignment good enough to let your tires wear evenly. 

 

3" seems to be alignable sometimes

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