help a new mechanic diagnose tranny / start issues

[pppz]

for fun i bought a 2001.5 LE 2WD, auto with 311k miles on it. I'm pretty new to wrenching but am looking to get better.

 

on startup, it sputters for about 2-8 seconds and then the engine turns over and chugs along. when in D and going very slow it feels like it is lurching forward a bit vs smoothly going forward but it's not bad. At about 45 mph sometimes it feels like it's wobbling, and I thought it might be the tires or struts but then all of a sudden it goes away. I think it may be tranny related.

 

It has an aftermarket trans coolant cooler. 

 

It goes into all gears smoothly and has never stalled. 

 

when going up a steep hill near my house, it flares in 3rd when it should downshift to second, sometimes it stays in third and creeps up the hill, but it's never put me in limp mode.

 

today i turned O/D off and went up the hill. when it was in third and starting to slow i applied 60% throttle and it made a little whirling sound for 1.5 seconds and then downshifted. Sometimes at around 45mph on flat roads it will also flare, where the RPMs go up but speed does not. I've never felt a hard shift though.

 

I drained the tranny fluid, and it was still cherry red. I checked the fuel damper line for leaks and there were none. I cleaned and tested the MAF and at idle its at 1.4v and at 3k rpm's it goes to 2.26v but then drops back to 1.3 while at 3k rpm (video of it in action here: https://youtu.be/QvIa7mXs59U). This drop makes me think the MAF is bad, but i'm not getting any MAF codes.

 

The DTCs it's throwing:

P0300 (unspecified misfire)

P1145 (Intake Valve Timing Control Performance Bank 2)

 

Could it be the MAF? Or something else more obvious? Are there other diagnostic things I should be doing to rule out other potential tranny issues? How can I test to see if the tranny solenoids are actually working as intended?

 

 

 

Edited April 15, 2021 by pppz

[Fr8Train]

Did you change out the filter in the tranny when you drained the fluid?

[pppz]

i read somewhere that if the filter is so clogged it needs to be replaced  -- then the transmission is shot anyways, so I didn't drop the pan and replace it. 

[Fr8Train]

48 minutes ago, pppz said:

i read somewhere that if the filter is so clogged it needs to be replaced  -- then the transmission is shot anyways, so I didn't drop the pan and replace it. 

 

Regardless of what you read, how do expect to diagnose an issue with a transmission without making checks? If your filter is clogged you are better off changing it than leaving in there making more damage and issues.

 

It is always best practice to change your filter with your fluid, get a tranny service kit it will come with filter and pan gasket, the advantage is you have put some fresh fluid in so that will have acted as a flush of sorts, and when you drop it and refill with fresh fluid you will have replaced most of your old oil as it takes a couple of changes to get all your fresh fluid through.

 

Edited April 16, 2021 by Fr8Train

[pppz]

I didn't get DTCs from the tranny, so I'll start by diagnosing the current DTCs. I'll probably buy a cam sensor and a MAF sensor tomorrow...

[pppz]

replaced cam sensor bank 2, it was super gunky. sprayed brake cleaner in the cam sensor hole. did an oil change + oil filter change. i noticed right away it was idling at a lower RPM.I cleared the codes. I'll drive it around and see if they come back + see how the warm start + tranny do.

[pppz]

p1145 went away with the cam sensor replacement

i just replaced all the ignition coils and spark plugs, now it starts right up. I cleared the DTCs, will see if P0300 comes back.

[pppz]

ok p0505 came up only because i un-knowingly busted the pigtail of the IACV when removing coil #5. I had to do some surgery to glue the connector back-together but got it back on and she started up with no codes. HOWEVER, i did like 5 warm starts and one of them it still did the sputter/turn over a while and then started.

 

i checked the gas pressure valve and it's not spewing gas, the gas damper isn't leaking, so I'll keep an eye on it and see if the computer fixes things on it's own.

 

another issue coming up is the key sometimes gets stuck. I can put it in and start the car but it wont go from 1->0. I'm in park and the wheel lock is not engaged. Any ideas? I think it may be the key being old and warn out, but it's strange because it doesnt happen every time. Might be a spring or something as part of the tumbler assembly that is failing?