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Need help Mild Facelift for 2004 R50


04Pfinder
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Hey Guys! I've read up on the numerous threads and builds over the past several months and it has been immensely helpful. However, my mechanical skills are quite limited and I have a few questions. My local custom truck shop had little to no knowledge. I plan on checking with another shop but I maybe in charge of ordering everything and being the person planning everything.

2004 Nissan Pathfinder SE 4x4 w 144,000 miles. Drive it a couple days a week. It's sagging and needs new tires. I'd like to lift it 2" and put some bigger more aggressive tires on it. I don't want to go crazy as I'd still like it to be pretty drivable. My offroading is mostly in slick mud no major rocks or anything. 

Here is what I know I need/want: 2" lift front AC coils , Landrover NRC 9447 rear springs bilstein shocks. I'll try and list these to be as brief & concise as possible.

What struts do yall recommend? KYB or OME or other

The guy looked at it and said I needed the full strut assembly because my rubber isolator was messed up? What parts should I get along with the strut?

Is this the correct model shocks for the rear? Bilstein 33-18552shocks

What is the largest tire I should anticipate without trimming metal? Seems like 31" easy maybe 32"

I plan on buying new rims with the proper backspacing

What else should I buy or replace? camber bolts seem reasonable

Would locking hubs help performance or just take the pressure of my cv's?

Thanks so much for any advice or help. I have enjoyed this truck for the last 16 years and would like to keep it a few more.

I've got two pics if I can figure it out later I'll add them.

 

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Go with KYB struts. You can purchase the rubber isolators separately from various online Nissan parts dealers. Replace the strut bearings and bump stop/boots as well.
The correct Bilstein shock for a 2" lifted Pathfinder is 13-185552.

With a 16" or 17" wheel with the correct offset, you can fit a 32" tire after some trimming or heat-remolding of the front plastic liners. You won't need to trim sheet metal, but you may need to remove or trim mud flaps. I have Ultra 175 Rogue wheels, 16x8 with 10mm offset. I was able to fit 265/75R16 tires with minor rubbing after trimming plastic wheel well liner. Tires cleared the strut tower as well.

Camber bolts may be a good mod if you notice positive camber after lifting it.

 

Manual locking hubs do prevent excessive wear and tear on the front CV boots while driving in 2WD.

 

I have owned my 97 LE for 23 years. It has over 210K miles now. It's been lifted for 22 of those years. Ran 31x10.50R15 tires from 1999-2003, 32x11.50R15 tires from 2003-2006, 265/75-16's from 2006-2017. 285/75R16 tires 2017-present. 

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I seem to recall there was an issue with failure of the strut bearing from a particular manufacturer... I want to say KYB, but please look it up. It was a long thread on this site.

 

I could fit 31x10.5 on steel 8" rims (3.5" backspace?) on my stock and sagging 1999 that only rubbed while turning in reverse, so that should be a non issue, especially with a lift. 32's should work as well, but aren't as common as some of the metric sizes. I think you should ask what you are wanting it set up for... daily driving, expedition style exploring, mudding, etc and go at it from that direction.

 

I bought MileMarker hubs for the 1999 for $100 on sale (that jeep store) and have never locked them. What they did do was give me 2 mpg more on the freeway, which paid for them...

42,000/20= 2,100 gal

42,000/18= 2,333 gal

233 gal x $3.00/gal = $699

 

You get the point... and I didn't wear out the front CVs... it's a no brainer.

 

As for specific part numbers, please search, and there should be pinned threads in the header of each model section. I don't want to be rude, but the info is all there...;)

 

B

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I seem to recall there was an issue with failure of the strut bearing from a particular manufacturer... I want to say KYB, but please look it up. It was a long thread on this site.

 

I could fit 31x10.5 on steel 8" rims (3.5" backspace?) on my stock and sagging 1999 that only rubbed while turning in reverse, so that should be a non issue, especially with a lift. 32's should work as well, but aren't as common as some of the metric sizes. I think you should ask what you are wanting it set up for... daily driving, expedition style exploring, mudding, etc and go at it from that direction.

 

I bought MileMarker hubs for the 1999 for $100 on sale (that jeep store) and have never locked them. What they did do was give me 2 mpg more on the freeway, which paid for them...

42,000/20= 2,100 gal

42,000/18= 2,333 gal

233 gal x $3.00/gal = $699

 

You get the point... and I didn't wear out the front CVs... it's a no brainer.

 

As for specific part numbers, please search, and there should be pinned threads in the header of each model section. I don't want to be rude, but the info is all there...Set_2_wink.gif

 

B

There is no proof of kyb bearing failure. I’ve had mine going on 4 years with zero issues.

 

I completely agree with you that the info is all there. I respect OP for having the car so long but every question they are asking literally has multiple threads.

 

Sent from my Pathfinder

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Thanks for the helpful info Xplorx4 and Precise1!

Yes there are multiple 30 pages threads about some of this. In fact almost too much information. I have read most of them all. I even looked through the 70 pages of photos of R50's to see what looked like I was looking for. Many of you like R50Jr BAX03SE, Pathydude and Hawraishi sp? have gone way beyond what I need although I think y'alls ride are awesome. I guess I would have thought be listing the specific Bilstein model number, AC coils in the front and the LR9447 it wouldn't seem like I was just being lazy. . I appreciate all the knowledge on here and I think I know the major stuff. I was just looking for some insight into any additional stuff since my "project" is milder than most of you regular guys. Xplorx4 telling me what kind of tires and rims worked for him was just the type of info I was looking for. I don't want spacers or to get into panhard drops etc but basically looking to do what many of y'all did starting out before doing subframe drops. It is still going to be a daily driver and just looking for a little more offroad ability in the mud. 

BTW on that note LR direct has been out of the NRC9447 by Britparts for a few weeks and I know the OME's were hard to get for awhile.

I'll probably just pay a little extra for one of the other NRC9447's from LRdirect that are manufactured by someone other than Britpart.

I WOULD LIKE TO APOLOGIZE though when I clicked the pinned topics the link was broken. Since y'all mentioned it I realize someone updated the link further down.

After I read a few of those that I had not seen specifically the max tire size vs lift and I plan to post what I'm going to order before I place it and give yall a chance to critic it or suggest any changes. Hope that works!

 

Thanks!

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KYB struts are fine, noone has had a problem with them. There may be some improvement in road manners with the OME, but its incremental & probably imperceptible paired with AC struts; plus they are significantly more expensive.

 

I believe it was [mention=38818]micahfelker[/mention] who experienced a failure with the Moog strut bearing, not KYB.

 

Here was my part list:

OEM Replacement Parts

Strut Bearing [54325-5V000] $48.54=$24.27x2

Spring Seat [54034-0W000] $45.42=$22.71x2

Bellows & Bump Stop [54050-0W002] $38.86=$19.43x2

Did NOT use: Upper Seat Rubber Bumper (NOT rubber) [54057-0W000] $22.50=$11.25x2

$173.17 ($155.32+$17.85s) infinitipartsdeal.com

Wish I had new rubber/plastic to go on the bottom of the spring but I just rotated my old ones since I did not. I believe@hawairish improvised with hose.

 

@02_Pathy & [mention=39745]stpickens[/mention] have excellent examples of 2” lifts; prior to their SFDs. 2” is all you really need & can make a great build.

 

While manual hubs are all the rage, many of us, particularly the ATX14A trucks, are still running autohubs. In a part-time 4x4 truck there is no reason not to install them; but I wouldn’t get hung up on it. If you’re not spacer lifting, keeping it at 2”, & not rock crawling, you’ll probably never need new CVs but if you do, the manual hubs make it possible to replace them without removing the tire.

 

Having owned my truck since new in ‘02 but having just started to refresh it about 4 years ago, you’re in for a treat. Just freshening the suspension alone will make it infinitely more pleasant to drive.

 

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04Pfinder, I really wasn't trying to shut you down by telling you to search, and yes, there is such a thing as TMI sometimes! :D

I think maybe you will get more input with more specific questions like "Is this part number the right one for a 2004, I've seen different numbers posted in these threads" type thing. The less homework you make people do will generally get better results... human nature. :shrug:

 

R50JR, I was simply saying that I recall a discussion about this, and that several people seemed to have issues. Poor installation... a bad batch... these things can happen. Hell, I didn't even have an R50 back then, give me credit for even remembering it 15+ years later.

 

 

Let me say that I still appreciate the enthusiasm for Pathfinders, and I've obviously done my part here on NPORA. I currently own 3 pathfinders, a 91, a 95 and a 99. My wish is to convert the 91 into a front wheeled drive electric vehicle based on a Nissan Leaf drive train (150hp/180ft/lb stock VS 110hp/210ft/lb EV) that would mainly be used for around the county, the 99 will probably be sold soon (too damn many vehicles), and the 95 I'll keep until it is my coffin.

Keep it up guys (and gals), they don't make them like this anymore!

 

B

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