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*Updated: 02/06/2022 5:26PM PST

Building cnd.vlad's '94 XE


cnd.vlad
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Hey guys Noobie here,

This is gonna be the topic where I'm going to be asking more experienced Pathy owners what to do with my pathfinder...

My pathfinder has a shot transmission that needs to be replaced

 

I was thinking that while I'm at it to swap in a Ka24e into it, I don't know if this is a good idea but I like the ka24e engine.

 

Will it bolt up to a r50/xterra/fronteir tranny

 

Let me know if this is possible and if so let me know if this is a good idea...

 

Thank you!

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Here in the US, from 1990 to 1995, the only engine available for the WD21 was the VG30. 

 

For a 4 cyl trans, your best bet would be from a Frontier. Once again, here in the US, if it is 4wd, Nissan pretty much used only the V6. 

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Some early (and overseas) WD21s and a lot of D21 trucks came with the KA. You'd need the wiring harness and computer to go with one, and it would be a lot of work to get a smaller, less powerful engine. Not once has my VG30 made me wish it made less power!

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Ok then gotcha,

it was just an idea because I figured the ka would have more aftermarket for it.

 

I guess ill stick to my vg30e then and if I want more power ill go vg33

 

thanks for the feedback

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Cant wait for this school year to end so I can get to fixing the pathy 

 

I hope "the virus" is over by that time....

 

also is there anyone else on NPORA that lives in Alaska?

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  • 2 months later...

Hey guys, newbie here again.

 

I kinda bought this car not knowing what I'm getting into. I did figure out a couple things though because of you guys. 

 

1)most likely my auto tranny is burnt to a crisp

2)fixing the dang thing ain't gonna be easy

 

Now I got this car because I got jealous of others that had 4wheelers and side by sides and thought that this would be even cooler than their little toys with a little mods im also only 14 and im kind of stupid. I thought and still kind of think It would be fun to fix and drive with my dad. I have a permit by the way and can drive if my dads in the passengers seat.

 

Heres the thing though, I want to keep this car throughout high school, I wanna grow up in this car. 

 

To fix it I need to either swap a manual or automatic into it. I still haven't started (ill start in late spring/early summer if all goes as planned)

 

It seams easier to get a manual and have it last longer than 3 autos (without a tranny cooler)

And I personally think manuals are cool

 

Do you guys honestly think it's worth pursuing my wild dreams and fixing the damn thing or do you guys think I should just save up for another pathy. My pathy is as rest free as it gets, and I haven't started it since late summer and without doing anything but hooking up a jump starter it started right up yesterday. It makes me happy hearing it run. 

 

Should I sell this one, or get a new one?

What would be easier, I bought this one for $200

 

(please bear with me, sorry)

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  • 1 month later...

Hello, I'm back again!

I've decided that I'm 100% manual swapping it. I will put all my effort into this and there is no backing out now!

I wanted to ask what tools I'll be needing for the swap. I made this list:

*4(or 3)ton jack stands

*a hydraulic jack

*a medium power driver

*an assortment of wrenches

*an assortment or sockets 

*a breaker bar

 

I think that's it but I don't know, I might need more stuff. My main goal for now though is to remove the burnt auto.

Please lemme know what's absolutely necessary and what's not, and of course if I should add anything to this list.

Please link forums that might help.

Thank you!

 

EDIT: I totally forgot about the actual parts that would go on the Pathy. This is where I'm really lost. I figure to buy a donor car would be easier but here's my list:

*Manual trans

*Driveshaft

*Wiring harness?

*ECU?

 

Please let me know what I missed!

Edited by cnd.vlad
Forgot to add something
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  • 2 weeks later...

You'll need the master/slave cylinder, clutch hard/soft lines, and clutch/brake pedal assemblies from the donor.

 

Actually, just buy a new master and slave.

 

You will need to modify the wiring so it will start and if you want the cruise control to work. I believe someone posted on here before.

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On 4/2/2021 at 5:34 PM, adamzan said:

You'll need the master/slave cylinder, clutch hard/soft lines, and clutch/brake pedal assemblies from the donor.

 

Actually, just buy a new master and slave.

 

You will need to modify the wiring so it will start and if you want the cruise control to work. I believe someone posted on here before.

 

Can you please send me threads/how-tos for this so I have a rough idea 

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Your auto trans ECU won't care that the slushbox is gone. You'll need longer bolts for the flywheel (the flexplate for the auto trans is much thinner, so the bolts are shorter). If you haven't yet, check out Harbinger's swap thread. The pictures are long dead, but the text should still give you an idea of what you're up against.

For the wiring, I would start with the service manual (free download here), EL section. There's a "how to read wiring diagrams" section, but it's pretty straightforward, except that they abbreviate "blue" (for wire colors) as "L." The starter wiring shows separate diagrams for auto vs manual. Auto uses a park/neutral inhibitor (won't start in gear) and manual uses a clutch inhibitor (won't start if you're not pressing the clutch), plus a switch on the dash to bypass the inhibitor if needed. That's if you want it factory-correct, of course--if you just want it to start you can bypass the inhibitor relay (at the risk of starting it in gear and running into something). Nissan calls cruise control "Automatic Speed Control Device" just to be that way. It's in the EL section too. You'll also need to hook up your reverse lights. I'm not sure how much will plug and play as far as the harness goes, but even if you have to wire it from scratch, there shouldn't be that much that needs doing. Just keep it clean and write down what you did if you don't wire it like factory, so you're not scratching your head later trying to troubleshoot your own rat's nest.

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4 minutes ago, Slartibartfast said:

Your auto trans ECU won't care that the slushbox is gone. You'll need longer bolts for the flywheel (the flexplate for the auto trans is much thinner, so the bolts are shorter). If you haven't yet, check out Harbinger's swap thread. The pictures are long dead, but the text should still give you an idea of what you're up against.

For the wiring, I would start with the service manual (free download here), EL section. There's a "how to read wiring diagrams" section, but it's pretty straightforward, except that they abbreviate "blue" (for wire colors) as "L." The starter wiring shows separate diagrams for auto vs manual. Auto uses a park/neutral inhibitor (won't start in gear) and manual uses a clutch inhibitor (won't start if you're not pressing the clutch), plus a switch on the dash to bypass the inhibitor if needed. That's if you want it factory-correct, of course--if you just want it to start you can bypass the inhibitor relay (at the risk of starting it in gear and running into something). Nissan calls cruise control "Automatic Speed Control Device" just to be that way. It's in the EL section too. You'll also need to hook up your reverse lights. I'm not sure how much will plug and play as far as the harness goes, but even if you have to wire it from scratch, there shouldn't be that much that needs doing. Just keep it clean and write down what you did if you don't wire it like factory, so you're not scratching your head later trying to troubleshoot your own rat's nest.

Yeah I saw Harbinger's post. Thanks anyway, for flexplate bolts where do I buy them? Dealer? Also for wiring should I do it myself with someone helping me? Or should I pay someone? Thank you!!!

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If you can't re-use the bolts from the donor, you may still be able to get the bolts from the dealer. A writeup I saved for manual-swapping an R50 says you want M10x1.0 30mm, Nissan PN 12315-D0210. (I assume these are the same for the VG30, but I would confirm that before ordering them.) You need six of them. I would order seven because I've met me and I know how I lose things. (If you want that PDF, shoot me a pm with your email address--I would just link to it but as usual I have no memory of where I downloaded it from. It's for a different platform obviously, so the interior and electrical won't match up, but some of the info may still help you.)

Whether to do it yourself or not depends on your tools/skills/confidence. If you have a friend or family member who does good electrical work, rope them in. A mechanic may not be excited to finish the wiring on your half-done science project, especially if they're not familiar with the platform. Practice on some scrap wiring, get to where you can make a decent solder joint without starting a fire, and learn as you go. I highly recommend the marine shrink tube with the glue in it.

Edited by Slartibartfast
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