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Gank208

1989 4x4 pathfinder Vacuum help.

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And that means removing the bottom cover huh

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And that means removing the bottom cover huh

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You dont have to, just use the cotton ball trick to make sure piston number 1 is at tdc on its compression stroke and then check your cam marks again.

They dont line up perfectly to the timing cover but they'll be really close to them.

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Also I will do tdc tomorrow had to charge the battery cause it was almost drained.

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Ha I think I found what was giving me a code 13!. Was looking over where the sensors harness connects to the vehicle harness and noticed a break in the line on the harness side. Replaced a small section of wire so hopefully that's what was tripping that because that break was right by one of the metal wire holders.


Also I just want to say thank you again for all your help!! This is the first time I have went this far into timing, and it's been a breeze thanks to your advice.

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Ha I think I found what was giving me a code 13!. Was looking over where the sensors harness connects to the vehicle harness and noticed a break in the line on the harness side. Replaced a small section of wire so hopefully that's what was tripping that because that break was right by one of the metal wire holders.


Also I just want to say thank you again for all your help!! This is the first time I have went this far into timing, and it's been a breeze thanks to your advice.

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A broken or shorted wire will surely do it! Make sure all your connections are clean and you should be good to go as as long as the sensors and connections are in good shape.

And no problem, that's what we're all here for

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Okay so pretty sure I got it at tbc yesterday. Cam dimples almost lined up perfectly with case dimples. The crank was one notch over from the last notch on the left of the pulling (if looking down on it). The rotor was a little past the 1cyl on the cap?. I loosened the screw and twisted the cap right. Now I get an idle that pops every now and then but throttle response is almost non existent?

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So the plan for this weekend is to re TDC the 1st Cly and make sure the rotor is pointed in the right direction. After doing more reading in the FSM looks like the rotor was pointing to far to the right (guessing it may have been put in one tooth off....) 

 

After getting all of that resolved then im going to go pick up a cheap compression tester from Harbor Freight, and check the compression for my next project :)

If compression is good I think I will do a Weber Carb conversion found one for $450 will the regulator and all adapter plates. Once thats on I can remove all vacuum pretty much, and remove some of the stupid sensor so the ECM will run in loop and I should get a power boost plus I know carbs way better then TBI.

 

What are your guys thoughts?

Edited by Gank208

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So the plan for this weekend is to re TDC the 1st Cly and make sure the rotor is pointed in the right direction. After doing more reading in the FSM looks like the rotor was pointing to far to the right (guessing it may have been put in one tooth off....) 
 
After getting all of that resolved then im going to go pick up a cheap compression tester from Harbor Freight, and check the compression for my next project
If compression is good I think I will do a Weber Carb conversion found one for $450 will the regulator and all adapter plates. Once thats on I can remove all vacuum pretty much, and remove some of the stupid sensor so the ECM will run in loop and I should get a power boost plus I know carbs way better then TBI.
 
What are your guys thoughts?
Is the area you're going to be running in hilly, bumpy, or otherwise steep? A carb off road even with antislosh kits in my experience are no where near as good as tbi or mpfi. Better fueling, no flooding, starts faster and runs cleaner. Not to mention if you ever roll it you wont have gas pouring everywhere all over everything.

I'd personally get it running right and run it with the tbi system, you'd be surprised how torquey it is and how good it runs when you really need it.

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I prefer carbs, plus we don't get a say in it with Australian Z24s, we never got the Z24i. I've ran the Weber DGV for over a decade and only had fuel starvation going up one hill that was nearly vertical. 

Note you'll need to run a different (low pressure) fuel pump to facilitate the carb conversion. 

 

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Had carbs in the past, yes I am old. I refuse to go back to them. Partly because of where I live, get temp swings of 40°f in a day, can change elevation by over 5k feet in 30 miles and do regularly. I like the better fuel economy, better power/response that fuel injection offers and know that it will start when I need it to. 

Honestly with a VG, a carb will not give any benefit. If you do switch over to a carb, you will also have to find a distributor to go with it. The one in there is run by the ECU and it will get mad when it can't control the fuel. You think you are having issues now, you will find a carburetor conversion to be more expensive and difficult than just fixing the existing system. 

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15 hours ago, RCWD21 said:

Is the area you're going to be running in hilly, bumpy, or otherwise steep? A carb off road even with antislosh kits in my experience are no where near as good as tbi or mpfi. Better fueling, no flooding, starts faster and runs cleaner. Not to mention if you ever roll it you wont have gas pouring everywhere all over everything.

I'd personally get it running right and run it with the tbi system, you'd be surprised how torquey it is and how good it runs when you really need it.

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I appreciate your input and explanation as always RCWD21. I live in Idaho so hills ect are very common, mountains everywhere lol. However this truck is only being used to get to my area that I hike to hunt deer/ and elk, so i should have to much issue. Also I used to take my old carb'ed datsun up there it aint to bad. I know during the winter it will be a pain to get started but I have a Inergy Apex that I can plug a block heater into while I am hunting :)
The main idea on the Carb is that I understand them extremely well, and can rebuild one in no time if needed. 
I do also want to add the truck has one more shot at keeping it's TBI. This weekend I am removing the EGR and taking a look at that, running a timing light on it if I can get it to idle again LOL. And making sure the timing is correct so we will see.

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15 hours ago, FirstGenFreak said:

I prefer carbs, plus we don't get a say in it with Australian Z24s, we never got the Z24i. I've ran the Weber DGV for over a decade and only had fuel starvation going up one hill that was nearly vertical. 

Note you'll need to run a different (low pressure) fuel pump to facilitate the carb conversion. 

 

FirstGenFreak Thank you for your input as well :) 
As for the fuel pump Im going to run a Weber regulator that will only allow 2.5-3 PSI through and the rest will dump back to the tank. My buddy has ran the same set up in a Hardbody for about 4 years 15,000 miles and says his only issue was that he forgot to tighten the clamps before he tried to start it LOL. 

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11 hours ago, Mr_Reverse said:

Had carbs in the past, yes I am old. I refuse to go back to them. Partly because of where I live, get temp swings of 40°f in a day, can change elevation by over 5k feet in 30 miles and do regularly. I like the better fuel economy, better power/response that fuel injection offers and know that it will start when I need it to. 

Honestly with a VG, a carb will not give any benefit. If you do switch over to a carb, you will also have to find a distributor to go with it. The one in there is run by the ECU and it will get mad when it can't control the fuel. You think you are having issues now, you will find a carburetor conversion to be more expensive and difficult than just fixing the existing system. 

Thank you for your input as well :)
First off I love Fuel Injection systems they have done amazing things for the auto world, but every awesome adventure starts somewhere. 

As for finding a New distro that will be unnecessary since when I detach some of the sensors the ECU will go into a loop mode where the RPM's will control the distro. I actually found a buddy that has done the same swap and has been running it for 4 years 15,000 miles and it has ran fine.

 

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I would suggest getting rid of that clear tubing, possibly the vacuum is sucking it closed, you need to be using vacuum lines.

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I would suggest getting rid of that clear tubing, possibly the vacuum is sucking it closed, you need to be using vacuum lines.
Are you talking about on mine or the OP's?

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What ever engine has the clear tubing

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What ever engine has the clear tubing
That would be mine then, and its actually very thick tubing meant for fuel, oil, and engine bay type temps.
It doesn't even collapse under full vacuum from a vacuum pump unless its heated to the point of it being malleable.6f6b32842cda3cd244854e454baa0b3f.jpgc66be2fe0cf1547f21caf55a4de14599.jpg

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You mentioned you have an FSM, do you have the '89 or the '94/'95 from Nico? I've got an '89 manual PDF I can hook you up with if you need it. That's about all the help I am on TBIs unfortunately.
 
+1 on checking that the timing belt hasn't slipped.
You have a manual 89 pdf fsm??? Thats the tbi right?

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PM sent!
 
RCWD21, if there's something you need from the '87 manual, let me know, I have a hard copy because it was cheap on fleabay and I'm a hoarder apparently. I'd expect it to be largely the same as the '89, except that the ECU trouble codes are slightly different.
How many pages is it?

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Yes, '87-'89 is TBI. The '89 is 1,370 pages in PDF form. The '87 doesn't have a page numbering system from start to end (it's done by section, and I can't be arsed to add up all the sections), but it covers a third engine option that the later manuals don't mention, so I'm sure it's longer. It's a single paperback 1 7/8" thick. (Would you believe I haven't found the motivation to try and scan the SOB to PDF form yet.) If you need something in particular, let me know and I'll see what I can find. I can also send you a download link for the '89 if you want.

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Yes please send me the link. If you ever do decide to scan it to pdf please post it up or send me a link the two door stuff is hard to get definitive information on its always "87-95" is the same but 87-89 is a single port engine.

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PM sent. For sure I'll try and get the '87 out there if I do scan it, not much point otherwise. The only difference I can think of off the top of my head is that some of the '87 codes are different, just to be that way. 42 is throttle sensor circuit, 43 is injector circuit, 44 is no malfunction indicated, and there's no injector leak, ECU, EGR, or EGR temp sensor code. Other than that, same as '89.

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