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1989 4x4 pathfinder Vacuum help.


Gank208
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Looks like removing that upper timing belt cover isnt to bad, until I looked at the Hanes repair manual they make it sound like you got to yank your crank pully and pull both covers to remove the top cover. I guess I'll be borrowing a pulley puller from auto zone :)

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You dont have to remove anything like that to get the upper cover off lol basically pull your plugs, rotate the engine over til you get the number 1 piston to tdc on its compression stroke (a cotton ball is a quick and easy way to determine that) then check to see if the dimples on the cams line up with the marks on the rear upper timing cover. They don't line up perfectly but you'll know if they're way off. There will be 40 teeth between the 2 cam marks if the timing is correct

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Get you an fsm from nicoclub and you'll have 98% of what you need and know it's right lol I dont even use Haynes or Chilton anymore for that very reason

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You mentioned you have an FSM, do you have the '89 or the '94/'95 from Nico? I've got an '89 manual PDF I can hook you up with if you need it. That's about all the help I am on TBIs unfortunately.

 

+1 on checking that the timing belt hasn't slipped.

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You mentioned you have an FSM, do you have the '89 or the '94/'95 from Nico? I've got an '89 manual PDF I can hook you up with if you need it. That's about all the help I am on TBIs unfortunately.
 
+1 on checking that the timing belt hasn't slipped.
I have the 94/95 manual from nico which helps a ton but if I could get a copy for even an 89 model that would help a ton

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You mentioned you have an FSM, do you have the '89 or the '94/'95 from Nico? I've got an '89 manual PDF I can hook you up with if you need it. That's about all the help I am on TBIs unfortunately.
 
+1 on checking that the timing belt hasn't slipped.
I was using a fsm my friend had found. I believe it was for 89 but not sure. I would really appreciate the PDF if it isnt to much trouble.


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You dont have to remove anything like that to get the upper cover off lol basically pull your plugs, rotate the engine over til you get the number 1 piston to tdc on its compression stroke (a cotton ball is a quick and easy way to determine that) then check to see if the dimples on the cams line up with the marks on the rear upper timing cover. They don't line up perfectly but you'll know if they're way off. There will be 40 teeth between the 2 cam marks if the timing is correct

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Hopefully going to get the cover off and checked this weekend. Once again I really do appreciate all the help!

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Hopefully going to get the cover off and checked this weekend. Once again I really do appreciate all the help!

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If you need any other pics just let me know. It's literally right out the back door here at the shop lol7769a2ebcccada2dcafd91f2b5df3ef8.jpg

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If you need any other pics just let me know. It's literally right out the back door here at the shop lol7769a2ebcccada2dcafd91f2b5df3ef8.jpg

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That right there is a good looking rig. I love the front bumper!

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PM sent!

 

RCWD21, if there's something you need from the '87 manual, let me know, I have a hard copy because it was cheap on fleabay and I'm a hoarder apparently. I'd expect it to be largely the same as the '89, except that the ECU trouble codes are slightly different.

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Okay so I have been reading the fsm and have a question. On Ef & EC 97's diagram it shows fusable links BR BR G and G, from what I am filling it looks like those maybe right next to the battery or behind it by the headlight?
The only reason I ask is I have had to replace a few wires that were brittle or worn and will want to check these fusable links.

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Ha nevermind finally found it looks like it right off the battery so I will check that while pulling the timing belt cover. I have to do as much in a few hours as possible, since my apartment doesnt allow us to work on vehicles in there parking lot lol.

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Well got out there today for just a little bit. Checked MAF to see if it was getting power and it wasnt. The last owner replaces the fusible link with a stupid connector that was all beat up. Got that replaced and now she tries to start no backfire since. Ran codes before I came for the night and got 13. Now is that the one up front by the radiator or is that one for the gage? Also I found a thread about all this but the photos were long gone. Any chance you guys can tell me where to find the one that throws 13?

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Code 13 is the coolant temp sensor for the engine. It's on the driver side head just behind and to the inner side of the upper timing cover. If you look straight down near the distributor you'll see it facing forward horizontally in that general area.

Most times it's the connector and/ or wiring that causes issues. Heres a kit from rockauto that gives you the sensor, and a new connector. It's not listed for the 87 to 89 models but the same sensor and connector are used on the 90+ models and a ton of other Nissans as well.8a125a020a9e5470a77d1cf38cf7bf3a.jpg

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Finally checked cam timing and IMOP it doesnt look bad at all they are both about 2 teeth away from the case Mark's. Or am I looking at it wrong?

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That looks several teeth off to me. Are there 40 teeth between those 2 dimples on the cam sprockets? If not there's the majority of your problem with it running like crap lol

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Well if your timing belt is correct rotate it over to tdc on #1 and make sure your rotor is facing the number 1 spark plug lead for the cap. If not that would be the other part of your timing issues.

Just to give you an idea of the distributor orientation. If you're one tooth off on the distributor you might not be able to get it over to where it needs to be to be timed correctly. 8c65cd5c14d5caddce2b81e03e6a1ad5.jpg

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Crap... I forgot to tdc it. Haven't had my coffee yet

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That's not a problem when checking the cams lol it just makes double checking the distributor easier since it's already lined up mechanically

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So with 40 between the cams am I good there?

 

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Yes you're good there. The next question is, is the crank in the right position your cams could be good but you could be a tooth off on the crank

 

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