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Replaced rear control arm bushings, still sways bad


missionstreet
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I just finished replacing all 8 bushings in the rear control arms along with new shocks. I used stp (not sure if this was good idea) to help ease the bushings into the arms along with the help of a 60 ton press. Concerned there might be slippage since the stp doesnt "dry" after application.

 

Now I still have bad sway at low as 35-40mph over bumps, albeit the truck is loaded with a small generator, steel ramps, tool box, 2nd spare, big and small floor jack, couple 2x4 light fixtures, and a bunch of other junk back there.

 

I had initially done the lower arm bushings 2 years ago and that resolved the problem 90 percent UNLESS it was heavily loaded in the rear.

Edited by missionstreet
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2 hours ago, missionstreet said:

I just finished replacing all 8 bushings in the rear control arms along with new shocks. I used stp (not sure if this was good idea) to help ease the bushings into the arms along with the help of a 60 ton press. Concerned there might be slippage since the stp doesnt "dry" after application.

 

Now I still have bad sway at low as 35-40mph over bumps, albeit the truck is loaded with a small generator, steel ramps, tool box, 2nd spare, big and small floor jack, couple 2x4 light fixtures, and a bunch of other junk back there.

 

I had initially done the lower arm bushings 2 years ago and that resolved the problem 90 percent UNLESS it was heavily loaded in the rear.

How old are the shocks?

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Give your rear swaybar end links and bushings a close look, look at the swaybar itself as well, I have seen them broken before. Mine is a WD21, but has a similar suspension. I have found that when one of my rear swaybar links breaks(I have broken a few) that the truck becomes very unstable in the rear, and it is worse when loaded. Wouldn't hurt to check the panhard rod and bushings as well. Carrying a load it is a good idea to bump the tire pressure up a bit, do a chalk test to find the optimum pressure for your tires and loading. if you are running P rated tires, it would be a good idea to upgrade to LT for the extra loading.

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I have LT tires, will look into the panhard rod bushings and new rear sway links. I'm just wanting to be sure I don't "mask" the problem with other new suspension components.

 

When loaded, it feels like I'm having the same swaying problem before any control arm bushings were replaced.

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I am leaning towards worn swaybar bushings and end links with your symptoms. I had one of my end links break a few weeks after I replaced bad bushings in my rear links and it felt like the new bushings were worse than the old ones. It took physically pulling on the link to find the ball had snapped off the stud. Just looking, everything looked ok because the stud was still in the swaybar and lined up with the socket of the endlink. 

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  • 2 weeks later...

Soon to replace to those links. Meanwhile I'm wondering what the physics of the bushings is in relation to the sway. Is it the lateral force mainly that a stiff, good bushing guards against to stabilize the rear? 

Edited by missionstreet
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From my limited experience,  partially worn bushings and end links dont produce large effects while driving. Clunking noises and general difficulty driving the thing in a straight line are what I see as things are wearing out. Large noticeable movements going down the road, for me, have always been caused by a large broken or completely worn out (or gone altogether) bushing / end link. So if your experiencing large noticeable problems then look for something to be completely worn out or like Mr Reverse said broken. 

 

Ive also found that large noticeable problems tend to be bad enough that when you lift the vehicle off the ground you can usually move the offending problem area with your body weight. That might be a little different having just replaced all the bushings back there so everything will be quite stiff but I'd still get it off the ground and grab a hold of that sway part and see if you can move it about.

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Did you replace with rubber or poly bushings?  What brand of shocks, and are they OE lengths?  Any lift?  How are the springs?

 

In general, the bushings and trailing arms don’t contribute significantly to sway.  Worn bushings can lead to tracking and instability issues.

 

As suggested earlier, check for a snapped bar. The bushings trap dirt and the bar is most prone to rust and breakage under the bushing.  If you have lift, the bar ends should also be somewhat parallel, which is only achievable with longer end links. Worn joints and bushings probably won’t contribute to excessive sway, but check that all hardware is tightened anyway.

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  • 1 month later...

I finally got to this and I can't tell if these ring/cup is supposed to detach from the sway bar link bracket. Dont have a picture now but there are rings on the other side of the bushings and then ones on the bracket that look stamped on but I could be wrong.

 

 

The links I got by moog are not what rock auto images showed.

 

This link below from advance auto is what I got exactly. Look like self tapping zerk grease fittings. Eggish shaped bushings...Guessing the tapered bushing ends go towards each other?? 

 

https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/moog-stabilizer-bar-link-k80435/21880144-P

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